hls30.com

All of the original injector machine screws I have run into have been a phillips headed 8mm-meaning either a phillips or an 8mm will take them out-I always used the 8mm... Will

I would say if he is selling them, they aren't holding up as well as he hoped. No return and only a few pictures wouldn't get my $650 for a used set of previously "restored" taillights. Also, let's not forget The West Coast Nationals is not a judged show, but a peoples choice show, so while they may look good, they may not actually be faithful anymore-I don't see the striations in the valley between the chromed areas-could be the picture, but for $650, I am not willing to find out. Several of us are and have been looking at making replacement pieces-yes they are removable. Looking at his lenses, they don't look too well polished, but, could be he didn't clean them before taking pictures. With the new technique those of us that are working on reproduction parts are investigating, new copies of these should not be that far away. I have a NOS set of taillights to make molds from, so making them dead-on will not be an issue. Will

If it is an original machine screw, use an 8mm socket, or gearwrench if not, the vice grip way. I would alsot try an impact driver-carefully. Will

The black overspray on the lift, and silver overspray on the tranny insulator and speedo drive really inspires me to wonder what the bubbles on the frame rail actually are, as they were obviously sprayed moments before the picture was taken. Add that to the obvious impact dents to the front section of the frame rail, and the the statement: "we give our best pricing to eBay buyers call -ins and walk- in buyers as we cut out hauling fees, entry and auction fees even thou most cars we sell bring alot more money at these live events and auctions where people can see the Quality we are offering" mean that is one that I would have to see in person. I think he said exactly the opposite of what he knows is true. If that car was from Clearwater, I bet someone knows about it... The car is pretty, covering the bottom with new paint was done to hide something, whether it is dirt or more-either way verifying why can't hurt. Will

I've got one set of true black pearl mirrors put up with the wheels, louvers, the vin plates/firewall section and title from the same car. It was too far gone to save any other way. no engine, and obvious rapid decereration trauma from the core support to the tunnel(actually had to straighten the section when I cut out the section of the firewall) and rusted away from spending twenty years with only remnants of a tarp and a hatch glass to keep water out. Will

Come on, John sent Dave out to get one a while ago, he should be back soon...someone has already come looking for him! ROFLROFLROFLROFL Will

Bill, I have wasted my time and energy on you, and you wasted yours on me. I won't do any more of that in this thread, though I can't say I won't annoy you with out meaning to. The rest of you, before building a turbo system read all you can that professionals have written, talk to people and draw your own conclusions before spending your money and time. Building one wrong can cost you a running car and what ever it costs to get it running again-if it is your primary transportation you could really be in a fix. Remember, no one is going to give you a warranty on information, and what and who you choose to believe can and probably will save or cost you money and time. Will

Bill, 1) I don't know any formal business who would put a two or a three bar system on a completely stock 35 year old 240Z longblock and call it a properly built turbo motor, and give the entire assembly any warranty what so ever. 2) You defined the contest-don't project your anger over your word choice and diction at me. Even you agreed that my statement was true...and then told me I was not in my right mind for what amounts to holding you to your word. It's the old assumption trick: I bet you $20 we can both be standing on a single sheet of notebook paper and you can't touch me while on the paper. If you don't specify the conditions before accepting the bet, I get to, and you'll be out $20 and have to travel every time. Another lesson, quoting someone means not changing the text as it was typed by the other person... Will

Bill, If you look at what I quoted, "Please explain to me why i'm running at 17 psi and the only reason i'm not running in the 25psi range is that i have an older Electromotive computer..." you will see that ""No N/A 2.8 L motor will make more power than a 2.4 with a pinwheel"" had absolutely nothing to do with it. My comment was solely to address exactly what I quoted, as to why you were able to run 17 psi... My point is you obviously have a modified engine, and the modifications might go a long way to explain how you are able to run higher boost. Try that on an upopened and original 2400 and you will likely have a blown head gasket(if you're lucky)-or worse pretty quickly. If I were to comment on "No N/A 2.8 L motor will make more power than a 2.4 with a pinwheel" I can prove that to be wrong. A properly tuned NA L28 could and will make more power than a poorly tuned l24 even with the addition of a turbo, that is to say if you slap a "pinwheel" on a finely tuned L24 with out changing anything else, the engine will go lean and die before it gets above the power curve of a similarly fine tuned L28. Funny thing about making assumptions... If both engines are properly tuned for their test, I'll agree with you. Will

"3.1 Turbo The only thing stock on the car is the doors & roof" Might have something to do with it.. Last I checked a 3.1 wasn't a stock 2.4...and a 3.1 was a little bigger than a 2.8. Will

I'm not sure about your side of the pond, but over here, all 280zx delivered to us yanks came with fuel injection, as carbies were replaced with EFI in all Zs after late 1974-a again at least here in the States. I would look for rust and bog on the body-especially underneath the car, under the battery box, and in the front and rear window channels, then have your auto elec tech give the mechanicals a once ova. If you really want info, lift the car up and take and post clear pics of the bottom, and the area below and under the battery shelf and the same area on the other side of the car. Will

I appreciate your bringing to my attention that I read and wrote twin turbo, but understood and wrote dual turbo. In terms of misinformation-that does count. The point I made and posted as my last sentence I don't think you can find fault with. "If you don't want to do the math, or get someone involved who will, I would choose another way of adding performance. The end result could be bragging rights that reveal a great idea with a bad implementation." Will

Nissan has done most everything free in their power to erase the Datsun brand from their ranks, so I doubt they will get on the cases of those of us with Datsuns. Look out you Nissan owners! Carlos learns fast. Will

If anyone down Florida way is considering semi trailer transportation for their Z to the 2008 convention, please keep me in mind if you need to fill the trailer. Will

They match most everything he offers on ebay-obviously he is just advertising, and not actually selling. Will

The inspiration for monster garage! Will

Red Green has been my hero for years, almost as long as duck tape! Will -forgot how funny he is... He was on PBS for several years, I'll have to hunt him down again

I started just such a thread a couple of years ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16183&highlight=bad+ebayer+list Will

Pm me your snail mail address, and I'll send it to you on a CD. Will

His name has been changed to hide the truth from the innocent. Will

The point of a twin turbo setup on an inline engine is to have two different sized turbos that are tuned to different positions on the engines power curve to broaden the area of added power. In a dual turbo application on an inline engine both turbos share the exhaust and the intake of all cylinders. This is not the same functionality of a dual turbo system on a banked engine like the RB, where each bank gets an identical turbo. Turbos usually have a sweet spot in the engines rpm band where they function most efficiently. Adding a second turbo to an inline engine would be done to make additional power over a part of the powerband the first turbo did not address with a slight overlap. With a larger area of added power from properly adding a second turbo, gearing can be used through more of the powerband instead of the "bump" in power usually generated by a single turbo, meaning a larger area of effectiveness in the entire drive train, and more flexibility in the shifting of the car. As I understand the physics of the design of an inline engine dual turbo system it functions like a 12db per octave crossover, tailoring the output curve of a smaller turbo to match the output curve of a larger one so that the areas of power overlap slightly, making a larger area of more power. Using two turbos the same size on an inline engine means both were two small to be effective in the first place, and added more weight and complexity than a single turbo system properly mapped for the engine(twice the tubing). Adding them such that they operate on cylinders excluded from each other says exactly the same thing as far I have read. A dual turbo setup on an inline engine done to maximize performance takes lots of information about the engine, the turbos, the fuel curves, the plumbing before, between ,and, after, and the cooling system. It is not horribly difficult to just add a second turbo, but adding one to maximize performance adds complexity and weight to the complete engine system. If you don't want to do the math, or get someone involved who will, I would choose another way of adding performance. The end result could be bragging rights that reveal a great idea with a bad implementation. Will

A funny thing happened to me at the pick and pull the other day, and I think you will like it....I was no help with the door hinges, but...PM your address to me(or I can send them in a box I have going to E), for a dirty suprise(not boobs thread dirty, but...)! On the shrinking the casting, I'm not quite sure what you mean... Will

This guy is an issue. He used to go by the ebay name URjellis, and he has very spotty quality, and on occasion, questionable business practices. That is to say you may get a silk purse from him, or you may get a sows ear. He is not consistant in anything but his glowing and frequently erroneous descriptions. He uses words like NOS and OEM to describe parts that have been modified, and leads potential buyers to believe they came from a genuine Nissan Dealer that way when he absolutely knows better. Do a search of both of his ebay names here, and you will find enough info to draw your own conclusions. As for me, I was involved in what I consider to be a scam of his, and I wouldn't attempt trade money for anything he will ever offer. I am not telling anyone not to buy from him, I am simply warning you that the part you might get might not measure up to the glowing and magical description in his ad, and the service might not be as you expected. One other thing to remember, bad feedback is a two way street, most people who value their score won't leave it for fear of damaging their own. Again, draw your own conclusions. Will

Jim ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL JOB... Did you ever find your center caps? Will

I used several castaible plastic resins to get all of the details of the lens. Using a drape based vacuum system you will give up some detail, and have a healthy level of trimming to do, and with the undercuts in the lens, making a faithful reproduction would be a challenge. Don't for get to stress relieve once you trim, or it will crack. When you examine that lens, I think you will see, vacuum forming will get you close(and probably close enough), but it will not get you indistinguishable. The best way (detail capturing wise) would be injection molding, and that is where my efforts are going now. With the LED upgrade though, close enough to work the switch last in the environment, and look finished is all you need. Vacuum forming will get you there. Will