hls30.com

Welcome to the club! There are a ton of people with massive doses of Z knowledge here! The best starting places are searching the threads here, and And Tom Monroes book on Amazon Rebuild your Nissan OHC engine http://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128030?tag=hls30com-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=1931128030&adid=0VV0FDM1Q6E373RZ2JNN& Wick Humbles Book on Amazon Rebuild your Datsun Z http://www.amazon.com/dp/1931128022?tag=hls30com-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=1931128022&adid=1FYAVP6WBSX6QA0D7HPP& A Factory Service Manual (FSM) wouldn't hurt either! Will PS post pictures when you get the chance!

Every time Carls Car-it gets prettier! I can say the same thing for Rogers cars too, and Franks too-must be in the water! Will

Welcome, congratulations! The hairdryer looking thing is a cooling fan for the injection plumbing. Will

THe cars typically go 200k plus with proper care and maintenance. The 280z is less finicky than a carbed z, and I would think it would do just fine. I drove Zs for daily drivers for most of the last 25 years, other than brakes, a couple of half shafts, the odd starter and alternator, shocks and an exhaust stud, nothing but typical maintenance-except upgrades! Just have a Z familiar mechanic go through the Z before you put it in daily service to be sure nothing (belts, hoses, fluids, tires, bushings, etc) has deteriorated from sitting(30k in 31 years-the car has done some sitting). Will

It was because my sign up pointed out an issue with signing up:stupid:! They refunded $10:laugh:. Stephen, you are special, but not the a special-I mean not wanting to be Bills neighbor...reallyROFL! Will

Welcome to the club!!! Please post some pictures when you get the chance! I think you mean series 1 or series 2. Quoted from Carl Beck as posted at www. zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html "There Are Four Series Of Datsun 240Z's. THE SERIES I 240Z's - Produced from Oct. of 1969 through Dec. of 1970. They are identified by the fresh air exhaust vents located on the rear hatch. (some of these cars were also produced in the first few weeks of Jan. 1971 during the transition period) They have plastic covers for tools and jack located behind the seats, steering wheels with indents, rather than holes. The Series I 240Z's were sold and titled as 1969, 1970 and 1971 Model Year Cars here in the U.S. and North American Markets. (as they complied with all U.S. Emissions and Safety standards in effect for those years. There was not much change in the standards for those years.) Cars that arrived at the U.S. Ports after Sept. 1 1970, could legally be, and were, sold as 1971 Model Year Cars. (they could also have been, and were, legally sold as 1970 Model Year Cars! - however very few of them were, due to the price increase on the 1971 Model Year cars. ). THE SERIES II 240Z's were produced from Jan. 1971 through Aug. of 1971. They are identified by the fresh air exhaust vents relocated to the side or "C" pillar of the car, from their prior position on the rear deck lid. The tools and jack were re-located to pockets in the rear deck area and the steering wheels have holes, where the indents were on the Series I cars. These cars were also sold as 1971 Model Year Cars here in the U.S....So both Series I and Series II Z Cars were sold as 1971 Model Year cars. THE SERIES III 240Z's were produced from Aug. 1971 through Sept. of 1972. These cars are identified by the re-designed center console with the ash try behind the shift lever (because of the use of the newer "B" style transmissions, cig. lighter moved to the dash. These cars were all sold as 1972 Model Year cars, because they complied with the 1972 Safety and Emissions standards only. THE SERIES IV 240Z's were produced from Sept. of 1972 through Sept. of 1973. They can be identified by the 2.5 MPH bumpers which extended away from the body, and had larger bumper over-riders. Also all 1973 model year cars had VIN#'s beginning with HLS30 120xxx as major changes to the emissions and safety laws took place in 73. So the "actual" answer to the questions, "What Year Is My Z?" or "Is My 240Z a 70 or 71?" is actually determined on the Series I cars, by how the Request For Title was filed by the selling dealer, supported by the original Manufactures Statement of Origin (MSO) and the date of Delivery to the Authorized Dealer. The answer to these questions, as it relates to the Series III and Series IV cars, was determined by compliance with the changing emissions and safety standards for 1972 and 1973 Model Years cars. So all series II cars were sold as 1971 Model Year cars (because they were produced after Jan.1, 1971). All series III cars were by law (Federal) sold as 1972 Model Year 240Z's and all Series IV cars were sold as 1973 Model Year cars. Some Interesting Facts and Figures: It would appear from our records so far, and supported by the research of others, that approximately 10,000 Series I 240Z's were imported and sold as 1970 Model Year cars. The remainder of the 19,000+ units were sold/titled as 1971 Model Year cars. Z Car HLS30 11618 is the latest VIN that we have found which was sold and titled as a 1970 Model Year car (built date 10/70 and Sold/Delivered 12/70) Z Car HLS30 05504 (build date 06/70 and Sold/Delivered 08/70) is the earliest car found so far that was sold/titled as a 1971 Model Year Car. You can see that there is an overlap in the build dates and VIN's of the first two "Model Years", however for the most part, cars built on or after 09/70, with VIN numbers above HLS30 010031, were sold as 1971 Model Year cars. Is a 1970 240Z more collectable than a 1971 240Z? As not too many people are fully aware that there are two "Series" involved in the 1971 Model Year cars, for the most part, the answer to that question is YES at the present time. As the Model Year limits the quantity available, the 1970 240Z's will retain more of their value, and will be easier to re-sell over the short term. (three to five years) However, if the Z Cars follow the patterns established by other imported collectibles, then the Series I cars will, as a group, be recognized as the Original Z design... and for the most part the Model Year under which it was titled, will not matter as much as it does today. " Will

ZTherapy, your car will thank you every time you turn the key. Will

I signed up-$20 for US subscription 4issues a year...Hopefully between it and Nissan Sport, we will get even more great Z Coverage. Be sure to send in Z pics from every local show-they can't include it if they don't have it! Will

Given what needs to be done, That seems way to high to me-about twice what I would expect. Sblake is the resident AC tech, I am sure he will chime in... WIll

Beaufort SC perhaps? Will

Must be from the St. Pete Speed show?

You guys! Buy a can of spray liquid electrical tape! Wipe each wire down with a clean rag soaked in alcohol-reusing the rag means you will probably have adhesion problems if silicone or any Vinyl dressing has ever touched the wires. Tape up the connections and hang the wires with a little weight on them. Shoot them with the liquid electrical tape and you have nice black high performance wires! Several thin coats works best and unless you have silicone wires, or didn't clean them properly, you won't have any adhesion problems no matter how you flex them. If your wires are silicone, you can still change the color, but only silicone will stick to silicone-meaning it will be a messy and slow process. buying a tube of RTV silicone adhesive caulk works, but you have to roll the wire to get a good finish-it takes several coats, and fortunately, you will get better at the skill involved on each coat. Still it is easier to buy a different color that to change, but if you like Magnacores, but hate the color, what do you do? This! Will

see my gallery http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14322&ppuser=4106 I went ahead and recovered the tunnel and the boots to make the transition less noticeable on this car. Will

Ok, you guys are getting to close to home...I took a picture of a copy of the Bat mobile in the underbrush beside an old cabin access road about two hours outside of Anchorage AK that fits this description exaclty-completely unexpected in the middle of nowhere, but thereby remarkably interesting to consider, look at, and contemplate...I will find the original, and post it, the copy I have on my desk has faded worse than the car I took the picture of... About 15 miles further up ther road there was a Fiat 850-finding that car showed me that Ferrari used parts from the Fiat Parts bins-door pulls, license plate lights, and small trim...who would have believed what I learned on my first trip to Alaska? Will

Well, you do have a low vin...4462. I think you will need a better mount for the motor/tranny to the body-that much snap needs more place to dissipate. Will

Talk about an ambitious project, I bet it will be way too much fun for those doing it! Even with english subtitles! Will

I would like more source details on the project, and I certainly see the value in getting a car on back on the road. Unless it is a low vin, I would keep it in the project, and show it in the ULtra modified class. Instant torque does mean instant fun, and instant surprise for anyone rolling up. Will

Wasn't there a link to this(maybe the animated Version) in the threads... Will

Mike, That is the reason I was given by owner of the local dealer of one of the GM lots for having to remove the 20 or so Electric Vehicles he had on his lot several years ago. He retro fitted several of them with lights, and limiters but then no one took them as serious vehicles. They are still in storage, and according to him, unsellable as determined by the DOT. I haven't investigated personally, but why would a dealer want to lie about it-much less eat the loss? Will

That very project has been running through my mind for a loooong time. Building an electric 240Z as a daily driver-and a track monster. Here in Ga. it would have to be a Hybrid, true electric vehicles are limited to 35mph by legislation, and must have a flashing yellow light on top... Will

Some things are so ugly they are cute(a sharpei puppy for instance) a 350Z in this color aint one of them-reminds me of Vickys Walter Mathau snail trail post...yuck! Will

Delrin/Urethane inserts for the next larger socket-or an aluminum lug wrench-all used when working with AN fittings and appearance is important. Will

Welcome to the club! There are only a few manufacturers making a limited number of new wheels that will fit the Z. Even used wheels in need of refinishing run 200 and up... MSA has several to look at, but better prices can be found pretty easily. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/WWC001 Will

In the Stock class the car is to be as it left the factory, no if ands or wrong batteries! I looked at the pictures for several minutes and picked up enough to show it was not a #1 car, and probably not a #2 car, then I stopped-well, ok, I left off a few other things like...but not limited to... The red urethane suspension bushings, Silvania headlights and bulbs, 280Z tach, mismatched shocks(a monroe, two Konis, and one with no markings), the use of non nissan foam in the seats, the K&N airfilter, Chevrolet orange on the air cleaner, Oldsmobile blue on the engine block, an aftermarket master kit in the engine, an aftermarket lug stud and lug nuts, aftermarket wiper blades, a replacement cam shaft without the oiler tube(not to mention the blockoffs) the wrong fluids throughout the drivetrain-and locks and window regulators, non Nissan metal and body filler, fake spot welds, aftermarket wheelbearings, brakepads, shoes, drums and rotors, primer, paint, lubricants, 3M Weldwood adhesive holding up the headliner, a slathering of vinyl protecterant(nissan never used any) To top it all off, there was no Japanese air in any of the tires!:stupid: Still it is eye candy and a nice job! Will