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Lets see E come up with a NIB Matchbox car for this! The "Mary Kay" guidecoat-JK! Will

It sounds like you sent the head to the machine shop without the cam. If you did, there is no way for the machine shop to adjust your valves. Adjusting your valves would more than likely take care of your issue-assuming the turn over you have already done hasn't bent anything. Valve adjustment is done with two wrenches, and stepped(or plain) feeler gage. Will

In looking at the picture of the shroud, I would take the radiator(whether or not it needs to be tanked) out to make your holes for mounting in the right spot. Careful alignment will allow you the best fit, and I would put some weather stripping/a silicone bead around the contact points(let the silicone dry before installation(I would not glue the shroud to the readiator)-fiberglass on metal will ultimately squeek-might as well stop that issue before it starts. Will

To mount the shroud, remove the fan blade from the water pump pulley, mount the shroud-you'll need appropriate fasteners(check the mounts on the radiator-you may use bolts, short sheet metal screws, or short sheet metal screws and speed nuts. Then remount the fan blade...done! Will PS, also pop the top on the radiator and see if it is growing deposits inside-if it is, take it out and have it tanked at a radiator shop, (take the fan blade off as above) and you may well have cured your issue-but put the shroud on anyway.

When you have one area with a problem, don't make three more to cure it...Raising the door is not the best answer... Will

Jim, Please don't follow that lead for your dime!:stupid::sick: Will

YUP, they were what was available back in the day... Will

It is what it is, As Ron says, "two Rons don't make a right"(is it just me or does that sound like something that could be in an early FSM) and with all of the errors Nissan made, they managed to make a great car we all enjoy, pamper, work on, photograph, write about, joined this club to share information about, and drive-everything else was just part of the journey to get here. The bumps make you appreciate the smooth parts of the road(much like an ex-wife), the Rapscallions(Albert Goertz) teach you to trust but verify, the Experts teach you that we all know something, and if it was all the same thing we(they) would have nothing to talk about or more importantly to learn, and the cars teach you we all have something we can agree on-the Z in the garage or on the curb still makes us smile after close to 40 years. Will PS, used Parts are Zs...

We have several threads in the archives here about its easy answers and lack of stock examples of Zs as well... Will

TomoHawk, That area is a normal "slack" area-most Zs I have seen have that issue until an owner takes issue with it and corrects it. Before your next re-paint sand the surface clean and fit and weld a section of metal coathanger to the door-make the gap uniform by grinding the coathanger, sand it flush to the surface of the door, and add a touch of filler if needed, then continue with the repaint, and your gap is uniform...no more lost points, and no more Muscle head issues! Will

The first one was the one I checked...If the whole assy isn't available, don't need parts...unless they are all available to make the assy. Will

That looks very much like the fan on the oil cooler on a 280ZX turbo with automatic transmission. I tried the partnumber and a few variations due to clarity-no good numbers. Will

It is getting so the time to go is when no one else is there... Will

I'd say the check is in the mail-but we both know what that meansROFL!!! Seriously, your post made me run right our and check my tires-come to find out my Dodge I bought new in 2003 had tires from 2000:mad: on it when I bought it(I've only put 24K on it, and am still running on the original tires) Will

Holy Dooley! No need to get as cross as a frog in a sock-I have thread decongestant! No worries! Will

Yep, I had that exact problem taking pictures of the Zs crossing the finish line at Daytona! Will

hahahhahaha! Will

TomoHawk, I have experienced the lag, but not the blur-this shot was taken several years ago with an inexpensive digital camera with the lathe spinning the wheel at 370rpm-as you can see, no blur at all- if fact, if I hadn't been the one monitoring the lathe and taking the picture, I would swear it was taken with the wheel motionless-you can see the green "fwd" button is depressed(I sent it to therapy to get help shortly thereafter) on the lower row of switches to the left in the picture(the top row is identical, but obviously none of those switches are depressed-they seem much more stable to me.... Will

I had planned to go, but my youngest got a last minute invitation to surgery, so I had to alter my plans-I obviously missed a great show! Will

Air Pressure-once you get under it, the paint will lift right off in sheets-at least old paint will. If the paint is a urethane itself (two parts or otherwise) it should stick so well you should prime, fill and paint right over it. I would try flexing the part to see if you can break adhesion. if so, air pressure-and a little more flexing, if not clean it, scuff it, spray on some high build 2k (urethane) primer, correct any issues, and top coat! Will

Then I guess I have seen the whole car it came from! If only they were easier to handle in bigger sizes... Will

Personally, I think the BRE style is the most striking on a Z. This car belongs to Jim Peters, and unfortunately my picture from Zfest does not do it justice. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=22901

That fender is just too much not to see the entire car it came from! I swear Chris, you have among the most interesting of cars... Will

Some of the racing paint examples- one of then Ron Carters beautiful BRE with John Morton ready to take her out! Will

I hope you would pull over and find something else to occupy your...uh... attention... Will