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What does every automobile other than a Z say in a TV interview? I'm not a real car, but I play one on TV. Will That is right before some one captures the video and posts it on a website despite the copyright notices...

The roads here in Savannah(Ok, my driveway) bottomed out the front suspension on my '73 (lowered 1.5 with nissan comp springs) too often, and that was being careful! The city won't do anythig about the potthole at the union of my driveway and the street, and when I have filed it in, they have fined me for cleanup! I filled a long shallow pothole with gravel, I do not have access to the hot peletized asphault they do. I will also sort it out on Roebling Road on occasion! I may just have to take a sledge to the area and get them to make some serious repairs. Will

I received my order from MSA yesterday, and everything was good except... I ordered a set(2I and 2O) of front wheel bearings, and they only listed one bearing seal. How goofy! I was only charged for one, but I asked for 2, and after his carefull attention to making sure I ordered everything I would need... Will

We have a new member with a beautiful Z from her neck of the woods, maybe his whiskers have picked up something... Will

Has anyone sectioned their front struts too give more front suspension travel? I am thinking of making this modification, and using the Rabbit or MR2 struts, but I haven't found any thing on springs used. I have considered coil overs, but i want the car to look stock(I will remove the perches with a lathe and a steadyrest, figure out the proper ride height, and weld them back on.) I searched out forums and didn't find anything and through Google found only two or three blurbs. The modification makes sence, and absolutely reclaims suspension travel. Will

Pretty Z! Welcome! Will

That one, without a stick! Will

Alan, In an open forum, you make your own identity. Unless Mike is going to start using some form of identity authentication, and move to a validated and verified membership, there will be no accountability because there is no explicit identification. You don't like what is happening(I don't either). You and I send off a blistering email telling the jerk what he did was wrong. Do you really think he read past the first three words. That email had two consequences, each of us may have felt better after writing, and the jerk hit the delete buton as soon as he read something he didn't want to. Mike throws him out. He sets up a new free email account, and logs back in as "IMnew", continues doing his thing with your pictiures only now under a different name. Does this sound familiar? I am sure you remeber the thread... People will avoid the end with teeth and claws, but this animal effectively has none. There is only one real consequence, and it is readily circumventable! I would rather Mike spent his time making the site what he wants it to be, interactive, informational, and easy to use rather than running around spending his time griping at people who are going to do what they are going to do anyway. Your expectation is unrealistic given the inherent nature of this club, its taxed resources, and the cost of investigation and litigation of an infraction. With no real consequence, behavior will not change! The only real consequence of doing what bothers us to the abuser is having to read three words and pressing the delete button. Would that stop you from doing anything? Will Will

Johnathan, The master vac is also availablefrom www.Rockauto.com, Advance Autoparts, Napa, Autozne, NOPI, and Kutcheys all are on an exchange basis. I don't think anyone stocks it, so order it several days before you need it to be sure it is here and correct before your work day. If you need a hand, sing out-I don't know how I missed this thread until now. Right now touching a Z that actually runs on the street would be good motivation for me to get my '72 OTRA (On The Road Again) I pm'd you my number. If the Z is headed off the street, sing out, we'll keep yours on while mine is on holiday. I am replacing my master vac as well, and while our master vacs (brake power booster) are not the same, the unbolting and re-bolting should be pretty close. I have factory manuals-and all of the other books-if that would help. Will

The same thing you would do to a 240Z, the engine compartments are very similar. Will

Bash dents, not people or their ideas. Will

I am re"designing" my interior, and I think I (with the priveledge of designer license) will move the hand brake to the drivers side of the tunnel! Or at least give more than a passing look at what is the object of such passionate responses. Will

I just bought a '77 2+2, pretty complete. I will be moving it next week, I'll check the boot when I do, and get back to you. which side do you need, to the airbox, or to the intake manifold? Will

The first thing You need to do is figure out what you want the car to do. If you want a 10second quarter, you are exploring the wrong way to get there. If you just want to add some oomph to your car, you might be in the right parking lot. The next thing to do is transplant a stock L28et into your car and get it running right. If you are unfamiliar with engine swapping the worst thing you can do is slap a bunch of stuff that should work together into a car that wasn't originally setup for it. When you modify the engine (3.1L setup) you change the fuel demands, the optimal intake(turbo), optimal exhaust requirements, and the cooling requirements. The stock 280ZXT pieces will allow the engine to run, but not like it is capable of running. Every upgrade exposes other required upgrades to maximize performance. I am doing a very similar swap into my '72, a stock L28ET and internals with upgraded engine management(programmable-learning ECM with detailed datalogging, larger injectors, higher volume fuel pump, larger throttle body, swapping a MAP sensor for the airflow meter, larger exhaust, electronic wastegate, larger radiator, electric fan, electronic variable timing, and much more. I would never try this with out getting the engine running is stock configuration in place first. Plan the modifications after the car is running. It is too easy to get lost and dissillusioned with so many variables to choose from. Change one thing and tweek the system, then change the next thing. Will

I just stripped my '72, and the pans and wheel wells were the same color as the car(Orange) under the undercoat. The suspension parts were all satin black, and the cast parts were unfinished. As such, it sounds like you are on the right track-depending on the year. There are several members with beautiful cars near in Atlanta-check with the Georgia (Atlanta) Z Car Club. Will

I recently placed a good size order with VB, MSA, and Zedd Findings, The order from VB came in last week, 100% correct, and today I received a card from them thanking me for my business. It was signed(not printed) by seven people. I pla ed the order on line. I received a confirmation that everything was in stock almost immediately, and the next day before noon I had tracking info. The two boxes contained a bit of advice, and a return authorization form with a shipping label. The advice was to thoroughly check the order within 30 days to verify the contents and the quality. I unpacked the box, examining each part carefully, and verifying it against both the invoice and the email confirmation. Everything was just so. It took 4 business days to get the order, and everything was either OEM, or acceptable aftermarket. MSA did not have a few small parts in stock, and I asked them to hold the order untill they came in. They gave me a discount based upon my membership with IZZC, but the total did not seem to reflect it-I have not received any confirmation from them, but I did ask them to hold the order, and it was placed over the telephone-when I receive the order I will post an update Zedd Findings had to wait on my check, I don't think it is there yet. Once he received my last one, my order was here in just a couple of days. Of shopping the three Charley Osborne gave the best experience, We emailed back and forth for several days-I am not in a rush for these parts-and talked about the Canadian Open, the car, my title situation, and Chloe. The MSA guy was the most add-on oriented, he suggested companion items that were things I might have forgotten. He was not forcefull, and it came across that he wanted me to be sure that I got all of the pieces to put her back together right. These were good experiences, so far, but even so, I miss "the Chloe experience." I must say the personally signed "Thank You" card from the people at VB was a pleasant supprise in a bunch of bills, and the only thing I did not put back in the mailbox! Will

Check with JSK Innovations, Juan is on ebay, and most of the Z forums Will

Pull it over, position to fit, crimp the hog rings, and put the hardware back on! Will

Where in Georgia are you, I am in Savannah, and am always looking for 240Zs. Will

Carl, Thanks for the list, I had a few of the entries, but not all! Maybe that elusive auto tranny shifter plate will turn up form one of them-I have a line on one, but I need two. Will

There is more to it tha that. The distributers are different for one thing, The ecm is analog in the NA cars, and Digital in the turbos. Your thinking is correct, but the games are different between the two different sets of engine management systems. I have a '82 turbo running on well on 77 electronics, and it is running stock 77 timing-I have it running a little rich to keep the detonation monster away. That is why most people swap the whole deal, ecm, wiring, and all. Will

I would not call a 77 not collectable, I would call it not as collectable- more people will pay more money for an earlier Z given both are in the same condition. Will

I'm using a battery designed for a Volvo S80 because it is vented to a hose nipple, much cheeper than an Optima, and I can run that hose out under the car, and not have to worry about such things. I believe the Optima is sealed, but I would double check just to be certian. Will

Right on V240-just check the data plate on your drivers side door pillar! It is there in plain english! On the optimas-no vent needed. On the Apex-i, If you want to waste that much money send it to me! Otherwise find a local welding supply shop and buy wire and terminals from them, it will be cheeper, better qualtiy, and much more flexable than any of the ricer stuf Apex-i markets (expensive/pretty/made for those who don't know better!) You need a wire to go from the Negative terminal of the battery to the chassis, a wire from the negative battery to the engine, and a wire from the engine to the chassis. The whole nine yards will cost you less than $20-counting gas! If you move the battery, the wire to the chassis should be about 18" long to go to the seatbelt reciever retaining bolt, about 6' long to go to the starter mounting bolt, and about 18" to go from the engine block to a convenient bolt on the chassis under the hood. Use a piece of rope or twine to actually lay out the path of the wires for correct measurements. Tell the guy behind the counter what you are going to use the wire for, and he will get you the right stuff! Will