hls30.com

The molds are easy-they are no problem-The resins they use all(even the water clear chalks up, it gradually grays but did not yellow in my testing) suffer badly from UV damage. Between yellowing and chalking up with prolonged exterior use. I tried all of the readily available resins from 11 manufacturers(not re-marketers)-not one made it through one Savannah summer unscathed-for a trailer queen that sees sunlight only on rare occasion, or for parts that are swapped in for shows and swapped out afterward those are good answers, for a driver their long term stability leaves much to be desired. There is a reason most current replacement headlight covers can be had for $50 a pair or so-they are considered disposable because of their materials, three years and they are having undeniable issues and that is with the high grade stuff Manufacturers use-the stuff available to us is not nearly as good. My though in not producing them was that people would expect a longer life from an expensive new set of lights-I know I would. Will

Misunderstood your answer to my post...I deleted what I said as you got the picture I thought your were ignoring...my apologies.

Why don't you contact the Brocks and see if that was actually something they made and sold or if it is an unlicensed piece?

That looks really pretty, but... in "as it came from the factory(otherwise known as "stock") form" NOTHING under the hood was polished or chrome plated ...so if your friend paid $550 to get the look of a stock engine compartment, he must have paid for "stockish" It does look great though!

MSA sells carpet and upholstery kits from Distinctive Industries-most of our vendors do-Distinctive Industries does not sell direct...ACC prices went WAY up after their vendors pitched a fit ACC direct pricing was cheaper than the vendors prices-try StockInteriors.com for ACC product...

Tomo Visit your local craft store(Hobby Lobby/Michaels/ACMoore, etc)-they have large inexpensive picture frames-if you aren't in a rush wait and watch for a sale...I bought a 26"x36" frame complete with lexan for less than half of what the lexan cost alone. I needed a 36x20, so I just cut it down The frame was $6 on sale I spent $2 on a scribe form lowes to trim the lexan, so for $8 plus tax and two hours between shopping and sewing up the modifications, I got a perfectly fitted frame and some small pieces of lexan for other projects... Look for a frame the size or larger than you need, modify it if necessary, then treat the white Vinyl like a picture...

That depends, if it is in good useable shape it is on the high side ok, if it needs a new CHRA then not by any stretch of the imagination. A new CHRA can generally be had for between $100 and $150, and by adding an hour or two and maybe some new hardware, you have a completely rebuilt turbo.

I didn't even get to his price! I tripped over the fact that he thinks a new 240Z steering wheel rim had areas that had good finish, areas that had failing finish and areas that had no finish...instead of one consistent good finish. Then I noticed the area on the back where the contacts are made-no diss-assembly or cleaning there... Refinishing the rim is the challenge in restoring the steering wheel. You don't want any of the old finish left on, before you refinish it, or it will show through. Cleaning up what is there is fine if the original finish is still good, that isn't the case here. I just cant fathom how someone would think that what amounts to giving a failing finish a good scrubbing without actually repairing or removing the previous finish would equate to restoring it to its original finished state. Evidently he thinks he understands restoration...I wonder what the paint on his car looks like.

I was perusing ebay today and saw this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320815397571?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 He says: "this is my second steering wheel that has been restored out of a series 1 240z. this wheel has a slightly more cherry finish and less grain ( unlike the other one i have listed which has more of a grain on the backside ) as this one was in better condition when i recieved it. this wheel i have restored personally and has no clear coat or staining....this wheel has been restored to its original state! i do not know anyone to restore these wheels to these standards!! this wheel has been restored to its original state and the only thing that is not original is the paint. this process took me over 10 weeks to complete and would be fitting for any show i would think. i have seen many that have been restored and i have not seen one to equal this quality. if you have any questions at all please feel free to contact me at any time. ( if you need your current wheel restored i can take a project on, one at a time as this is not a fast process and im very critical of my work as you can see. ) I believe he has the wrong target with his "restoration" efforts', the area within contact plate at the back of the wheel has not even been cleaned! If he thinks he has the rim as it was when it was new-Either he never seen one, or he has forgotten, They were almost a glowing red-just about identical to the raised area on the finger grips at the back of the wheel, with no areas of failed finish with golden highlights at all-you could see the fibers, and their grain, but they were covered in a finish. His result is what you get when you initially sand the rim with 600 grit paper and wipe it down with mineral spirits to get rid of the dust-a cleaned rim with sporadic areas of original finish within area of failed original finish showing the sun-bleached, carrier-starved exposed grain of the imbedded fibers. This is just the first step to a truy restored steering wheel. What do you guys think? I have a work program that has disabled my clipboard, otherwise I would have pasted his pictures. I'll paste them here later-unless someone beats me to it.

As mounted (just taped in for pictures)

The center switch(in the picture in the first post) is for the earliest cars, when the ashtray moved and the console changed the switch changed to the one on the right in '74 the one on the left came into play.

I don't think the installation has changed since then...I just run the install and copy the bin file to the windows/system subdirectory...never had an issue, but I update whenever I get a new version/new computer.

I was too caught up in your white letter quandary to look at your pictures-Absolutely Beautiful!

Thanks Alan, I only have a few JDM parts manuals, and intended to hunt down the part numbers/fitament today(see below), but I really appreciate your knowledge in keeping the Fairlady models straight. It hard to do with the few manuals I have. Mine start at '72 and go to '75, so I don't have an illustration of the earliest of the switches I have. Here are some crops from them pertinent to the the parking light switch-the headlight/turnsignal art did not make it clear that what was depicted was what i have-though they probably are.

You could make them whitewalls yourself.... Trimbrite T1925 white tire pencil. I used to touch up my Radial TAs in the early 80s with them-$1.50 then probably $5 now...

First edition 280Z...I thought the first edition 280Z was in 1975, and the first edition 2+2 in 1974, My first Z was a DN305(sky blue metallic) 2+2! Not for $10K...

Bruce83 and I worked on the installation documentation many years ago, Probably 2005 or so...the RaR file might be newer, but probably not as the efast part number info is not usually updated other than to move outdated(though not necessarily unavailable) part numbers to service file status. I get new versions regularly...

I was revisiting my JDM parts recently and happened across these hens teeth, and thought: "I ought to put all three of these in one picture as between the three I believe they cover all years the Fairlady 240Z(Early console and later fuse box cover mount ) and 260Z(the 1975-78 280Z was a USA thing, and the 280Z was what we on this side of the pond knew as the 280ZX). Hopefully some of you have more JDM parts to share in this thread. 260Z early240Z late 240Z The lose Tag goes on the ashtray cover on the late 240Z-not with the early 240Z as it is sitting. Headlight/Turnsignal Switches-I am not sure these are JDM because of the "Pass" embossed in the turnsignal switch, but they came from a Fairlady.

I have had fast running on Windows 7 since December of of last year...no issues what so ever-but then That is was the then latest version of Fast-Version 4.80 A1-12/2011 on DVD- marked Nissan Fast for Windows XP under help/version. I still have my first set of 2002 disks somewhere around....

Thanks John, I took out the part of my original post that you found confusing. And deleted the first of the double posts and the frustrating parts of all of my attempts at explanation, I have nothing but respect for you, and if I had any idea that you would take offense to what I posted I would not have posted it, Please accept my public apology. Back to the thread, I will hunt down and post some highres pictures of some cars-some Zs some not to get your thoughts on...maybe this is the way I should have approached this from the start...

Tomohawk, By cosmetic upgrade I mean a change that is visual but offers no measureable mechanical advantage. From chrome plating(sorry to burst the bubble of those that believe Chrome makes a car faster!) To a cowl induction hood with nothing changed underneath, cosmetic modifications are purely cosmetic... Let's quit talking in terms of existing ZCCA classes. This is not about them. Exactly what classes would you have in an open(any Marque could compete) car show you would put on? Name and explain-what would you look for? Why! Don't worry about separating marques, the classes would apply to each one.

Carl, Other than longevity challenged-under the rigors of autocross, How were the original shocks? I have an original ******* rebuild kit...

You just aren't getting it..., I enjoy ZCCA shows as they are-other than a small issue with the quantity of qualified judges available, a well organized and thought out event. I know the rules pretty darn well, I know where to find them if I have a question. I am conscientious enough to review them several times before, and cary a copy while, judging. I also know they are not not the subject of this thread... Once again, don't feel I am questioning, or threatening them I am not-they simply are not the intended focus of this thread.

This isn't a criticism, critique or commentary on, of, or about the ZCCA judging system, it is a question for the individuals here, what would they judge as important... I don't see any issues with the ZCCA judging system, I think others may have their own ideas... I think stock should be stock-money spent isn't the issue in the stock class, but at the same time, when you have someone takes initiative and casts his own manifolds I think his work should be seriously acknowledged-more so that the guy who threw money at ebay or a vendor and simply bolted on an existing part-there is a difference there-much the same as buying a new car and entering it and taking 40 year old and making it new....I am not sure how the distinction of made and installed vs bought and installed should be made, but I think it should be. That's part of what I am after in this thread... How do/should we award the distinction between innovation and time vs purely monetary investment. Should a guy who bought a car ready for a show be as well received as a guy who built one...Who is the car guy there?

John, You seem to be getting bent out of shape by something that does not say what you read into it. Defending anything by brining up parts of your history tells me I manged to get your dander up! That was not my intention-I admit could have been clearer. Find one word of criticism from me about a ZCCA convention or ZCCA show...I don't believe you can...I have left things undone that I believe need doing to support the ZCCA, but none of that is what this tread is about...It is about what people think should be judged in a car show. This thread primarily came about because of conversations I have had with ZCCA members, ZCCA show winners, ZCCA Judges, and NON ZCCA members, show winners and judges. I am not out to change, adapt, modify, alter, revamp, reconstitute, or regurgitate any ZCCA event, document, personnel, or custom. I am out to hear what other people think a car show should be. If you want to read more into it, I can't stop you, and won't continue to try, but as the OP, I can tell you that ain't what I had in mind.