hls30.com

Could it be a later manifold with a bung for an O2 sensor-if so, plug it with a pipe plug Will

I edited my last post to include the picture, and labeled the different pads-the 74-76, and the 77/78 will intechange. Will PS I'll post the picture again here:

I have examples of all three, let me get my camera, and do a little digging... Will Ps, the one pictured with the datsun logo is from a 74-76, the 70-73 used the same logo, but the pad was smaller-let me post a picture. Will

The one with the Z in it is from '77 or a 78, the other one is from a '74-'74, and the 240Z pad has the same "Datsun" emblem, but the pad is smaller. Will

Is the last bolt that holds the exhaust manifold broken off(a very common problem), or have you got a bolt hole in the body of the manifold(a picture is worth a thousand words). For the price of the brake Cyl, check www.rockauto.com Will

"It takes two hands to handle a Whopper" Well, a motorbike does get good mileage! I cant see Rick with a Sheep, a Kiwi, Maybe, but not a sheep :laugh:! I must be in trouble, none of my three rheostats resemble your pictures-I have one like that out up somewhere though. Now what car/box is that thing stored in... Will

There is an awful lot to be said for forcing yourself under a car, and having rust, dust, sweat and grinding wheel abrasive mix with sweat and flow into your eyes-here it is: Get and use a rotisserie, and a box fan! Kmack has a great thing going. I bought one, put removeable axles on mine(to accept solid tire wheels or pneumatic ones, and it can roll on and off a trailer, in and out of the garage, and rotate in all but a complete circle. One day I might just get a wild hair and take it around the block for a spin! I still have to contend with the heat(the box fan helps with the heat, face shield fogging, and breathing the dust, but far fewer contortions(only to get to interior sheet metal), and only an occasional gravity assisted impact to by person(always my feet)! Will

Chris, My car is getting back on track too-derailed by a baby! My avitar shows my attraction to rust too, but I am getting it all off the car and in the trash bin. Scepticism is a good thing, it can keep you from making mistakes, but it can also keep you from discovery! You keep your mouth shut too much, chime in more, I want to hear what you have to say Congrats on having one of the twins naked, and knowing what to do with her-remember as you post, nothing naked below the waist! Will

That first car either needs a front bumper or bodywork to hide the fact it is missing-still a pretty car-but if you take something off, don't leave signs that scream, something belongs here! Will

71datsunZ, you have the wrong info on dash caps. If you are careful with the glue, the cap can easily be removed, and your instruments replaced-been there and done that! You want to use a little glue as necessary to install the cap as the directions clearly state. I posted a thread on dash cap instalation a while back, it can be found here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12725&page=2&pp=15&highlight=dash+cover in post #18. Will PS the dash cracks because the cover material dries out, it will continue to shrink as long as it sees sunlight, Use a full face cover, install it carefully and you will have a great looking solution to your cracks-having the dash restored works well too. Ihave done both.

Carl is it true what they used to say about a Whopper? I figured you might find out in your garage ! But the real question is: "Have you got a sheep and a motorbike out there ? Will PS. has anyone got a picture of the 240Z dash light rheostat, I have been putting my dash back together, and I can't find the bugger! Noy Trip cable was freakafried too-used a spare, but I have three different rheostats...

TomoHawk-I know, I used creative license-I used the first set of control arms, and what you suggested is exactly how I got rid of the mushroom-but it took a 20ton press to get the sob cut part out! 1-Bravo-6 I just thought that up, and thought the changes I would share. I have a Dodge truck, and everybody knows a Fncked Over Re-built Dodge is realy what a ford is... Carl. Big fish do run deep, but I think you really went out to the Garage for a bit-o-fun! Ohterwise, having admittedly owned a PINTO, you surely couldn't have passed that post up! Will

Chris, Your ebay habits(and your avitar) show you like the look of rusty metal more! I am not sure that the notorious roof line cracking does not prove that lead filler is not a good material to use in that specific area. I am going to have to do that repair too, and I am considering using all kinds of things including the 3M structural adhesive, sliver solder (because it is sooo much stronger) and the automotive lead. A 30 year repair may be a good repair, but a permanent one would be better! I agree with you about Eastwood-they have some great tools at steep prices, but they also sell tools that came from Harbor Freight at steep prices too. I also agree cutting out the rust and replacing the sheet metal is THE answer. If you wouldn't mind-and as you get time, Pm me with why you don't like POR. Thanks, Will

I believe it is only avaiable as a hard copy, But I gave the "Readers Digest" version. http://www.autorestorermagazine.com Will

Could this be the reason for the BOOBs thread? Even if it isn't, I headed there now! Will

You are still in the Gene pool, everything else may be saddening, but it is all downhill! Being absent minded is not nearly as bad as cussing and throwing tools...into...parts you.....just restored... that are NLA, and were far too expensive and very, very, very hard to find...especially without Chloe... I refuse to answer based on the fifth ammendment! But I should get an "AW $hit" from ever person who has ever encountered this site... Will

I like the one one of the Mechanics told me when I worked at Western Auto between High school and College: "I don't give a Fnck, I aint the A$$hole that bought this piece of $hit anyway" He was fired a day or two later when A car he had just done brakes on lost both wheels on one side at 40 mph going down Abercorn(a local main drag) The damage to the car that lost the wheels was limited to a rotor, studs, and a rear brake drum, shoes and hardware. The new Vandan Plas that was nailed by the wheels was not nearly so lucky-but it was parked in the last parking place in the mall(at that time we only had one mall), and was empty- The owner came out to find a tire wedged behind his front tire, and another tire in a gaping hole that used to be the union of the B pillar and the drivers door-the tires hit the car airborne-the mall parking lot is below the road way at that area. It took the police over an hour to figure out what had happened to the Jag after the owner came out, the Western Auto had no idea(and didn't bother to check) what happened to the wheels. People paid and hired him to work on cars... Will

I bought a cheep tap and die set from harbor freight to find bolt sizes with, and to chase the treads-it came with a thread guide that has really been helpful(the tap and die set in far from all inclusive.) Maybe the size and thread info should go in a chart in the archives... Only in your garage big boy! Some hot female member in Carls' neck of the woods needs to check out his garage, and forget that never kiss and tell crap... Bill Ramsey needs some help with his bolt, and probably a nut or two!! Come on Guys-you know his car(among other things) is rusty... Let's not forget to show our friends across the pond that O2 sensors are not the only things we are fascinated with! That said, I am reusing the hardware that cleans up pretty, and saving the ugly but not rusty ones for mockup use(I am setting up my drive train in a '73 that could use paint, to keep the scarrs off the bodywork I am working so hard on(Ok, I am still stripping the removeable panels-I still don't want more body work to do, or to have to wait to do it.) Will

This months AutoRestorer has a jewel in the "Questions for Larry" about using a newer product for replacing lead in a seam, and the advice given is to use a two part, 3M structural adhesive #3M8115 after removing all of the lead and making any needed repairs-paying close attention to keeping the lead out of your body! After aplying the structural adhesive, use a skim of filler to finish. At 3Ms website: "Two-part epoxy used to bond steel, aluminum, SMC, and FRP (traditional fiberglass). The primary use is to replace quarter panels, roofs, box sides, van sides, utility vehicle sides and door skins." Will

They are still Found On Road Dead in every country! Will PS. Rick, here is the Z version of your quote Lord, give me the ability to accept the things I cannot change(the G-dDamn spindle pin on a Z) The strength of Will to change the things that need changing(I really beat the crap out of that MoFo) and the wisdom to hide the 5 left rear control arms I ruined forever because I beat the crap out of that G-dDamn spindle pin)

And all this time we thought you took the Z around the block for a "quick" lap, got caught in a Z shaped tear in the time/space continum and had to get up to speed to get out of the Nexus...and to think, you were just pick up sh!t! Seriously, Thanks for keeping the junkies from having to steal our property to support their habbits! Will