z3beemer

View Advert Lower Fan Shroud for 73 240z Looking for the lower portion of the stock fan shroud for a 73 240Z Pic in the add is actual a plastic one from a 260/280. I'm looking for the metal one. I really only need the lower half but would consider buying the complete shroud depending on price. I already have the upper portion. Advertiser z3beemer Date 04/22/2023 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240Z

View Advert 240Z Right Side Rocker repair panel New right side rocker repair panel. This panel goes in front of the right rear tire and extends to the opening of the door. I initially bought it to repair this panel but ended up replacing the entire right wheel arch which included this panel. Photos show front and back of the panel. The tag is on the back of the panel. $35 + shipping. Advertiser z3beemer Date 04/22/2023 Price $35 Category Parts for Sale

I'm nearing an attempted start up on my 73 complete restoration. The 73 was originally a auto with dual points, I've converted to a manual with roundtop carbs, intake and distributor with single points from a 72. I trying to interpret the timing plate in the distributor. Attached are two pics, one from the 73FSM the other an actual pic of the indicator on the distributor. There is not a similar pic in the 72 FSM. The pic from the 73 shows 3 lines pointing to the indicator. Unfortunately, there are two arrows pointing to the bottom line labeled 4 degrees and 8 degrees. The center line and the top line have arrows but no labels. I'm assuming a misprint. The second picture is the actual indicator on the distributor. Here are my assumptions, let me know it this sound right: The R on the left stands for retard, the A on the right stands for Advance. The center line on the indicator (the longer line) is TDC. Moving towards the A increases advance until maximum advance is achieved when you reach the A. Likewise, moving towards the left increases retard until maximum retard is reached when you reach the R. I have no idea how many degrees of advance or retard is represented by each increment ( 2 degrees or 5 degrees). Sooo, are my assumptions correct? If so, how many degrees are represented by each increment? If I'm incorrect, can someone enlighten me? On a related note, what should the timing be? I've seen 6 degrees and 17 degrees. One said it was 6 degrees for USA cars. I assume that was due to emissions requirements. Since I do not have to have emission testing and I've removed most all the emission equipment when I converted to roundtops (72 standards), what would be a good timing setting? As usual, thanks in advance for your assistance.

After taking a few redneck measurements It looks like the linkage arm I need is about 12.25" overall length. I'm not too worried about current condition, I can sandblast it an paint it. Let me know if you have something that might work and how much you want for it. Thanks

The one from the 73 is 10.75"

Thanks but I don't do facebook or anyother social media. Appreciate your reply.

Well, I decided I'm going to try to weld an extension in the one I have. Can anyone who has a 72 Z with round top carbs provide me a few dimensions? I would need an overall dimension from the top of the shepherd hook to the end of the rod, and a dimension from the top of the shepherd hook to the end of the hook (the part that connects to the carb linkage). Thanks in advance. Paul

View Advert Throttle Linkage Arm for 72 240Z Wanted to buy throttle / carb linkage arm from 71 or 72 240Z with round top carburetors. This is the arm that runs from the firewall bracket and has a shepherd hook on the carb end. See pictures. It must be from a round top carburetor car. Advertiser z3beemer Date 03/15/2023 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 19720 Model 240 Z

Thanks for the input. I guess I'll post in the want ads and see if anyone has a linkage arm from a 72. If not I may be able to cut the one I have, and weld a section in to make it longer. I can also weld a short stub on the shepherd hook. If I can't find one, I may need to call on the group to get a few dimensions. In the meantime, if anyone has a linkage arm from a 72 (round top carb), let me know. Thanks Paul

I have a question and a problem. I'm doing a 73 restoration that was an auto. I'm changing it over to manual with 72 round top carbs and intake manifold. It appears the carb linkage arm that runs from the firewall bracket to the intake manifold are different lengths. I looked on the micro fisch and it does not indicate that they are different. The mfg date on my 73 is 3/73 not sure the mfg date on the 72 (I only have the engine & trans). Attached are two pics. The yellow one is the original one on the 73 connected to the flat tops the silver one it the same linkage arm attached to the 72 round tops. Note the spacing between the firewall bracket and the upright angle bracket on the linkage arm. Comments, suggestions, resolutions greatly appreciaated. Thanks Paul (z3beemer)

I just love this site. There is so much knowledge here, and everyone is so helpful. Thanks again to all of you! z3beemer (Paul)

So I've spent the last hour or so searching the forum trying to confirm which trans I have. Every time I think I've got if figured out I find another post that seems to contradicts what I thought I confirmed. I'm doing a conversion, auto to manual, on a 73. When I bought the car the 73 was complete and I got an engine and manual trans with it from a 72 Z. I have no idea of the vin # from the 72 so I have no idea of the mfg date. Looking on the manual trans I can't find any legible numbers on the casings other than casting numbers. Is there an easy way to tell from looking if it is a F4W71 A or B? The shifter lever looks like the pic below. Not sure if that helps but one of the post I read said you could tell from that.

Can anyone tell me the proper orientation of the shifter for a manual transmission. I'm working on a 73Z, converting to a manual from an automatic. The manual trans is from a 72Z. Since I never saw the shift lever installed I need to be sure I'm installing it properly. All the fisch and fsm pics show a straight lever. Attached is a photo of how I think it should be installed. Can anyone verify ? Thanks

Thanks for the pics. They are most helpful.

I'm doing a trans swap (auto - manual) as part of my 73 restoration. I want to run the hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder to the frame bracket while I have the engine out of the car. I have the metal bracket that mounts on top or the right frame rail but I'm not sure where to mount it, since the auto trans cars did not have it. Can anyone give me an approx. measurement for the location on the frame rail? This is the bracket that handles the transition from the hydraulic metal line to the rubber hose that connects to the slave cylinder. I hate to have to put the engine in to determine the location, then take the engine back out to fabricate the line and weld the bracket in. As always, thanks in advance. z3beemer (Paul)

Well zKars was kind enough to send me what he had and I was to get one of them to kind of work, so I'll be installing that one. It never did completely close off but did reduce flow thru the valve. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to work. It took a temperature higher than 175 degrees F to change state, but it is what it is. Hopefully performance won't be too greatly affected.

Thanks. I'll use the N54's

Thanks for the info guys. Ordered a pair from z therapy yesterday. Pricey, $120 / pair, but when your this far into a restoration what's another $120. On a related note, if the one on the front carb comes off without breaking, I'll have a used nozzle available it anyone needs on.

View Advert Carb Part for 72 3 screw roundtop I'm looking for a carb part that broke on the rebuild of my 72 roundtop 3 screw carb . I've attached a few pictures. The picture with the red arrow is showing the front carb. I actually need the part for the rear carb. Not sure if there is a difference. The other picture shows the actual part that I need. If you look at the bottom of the part you can see that it has broken off. It appears to be some sort of plastic. The choke linkage attaches to this. I have the linkage. I thought about trying to epoxy it back together but since it moves anytime the choke is on, I'm not sure how well it will hold up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Paul Advertiser z3beemer Date 01/20/2023 Price $15 Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240 Z

I'm looking for a carb part that broke on the rebuild of my 72 roundtop 3 screw carb . I've attached a few pictures. The picture with the red arrow is showing the front carb. I actually need the part for the rear carb. Not sure if there is a difference. The other picture shows the actual part that I need. If you look at the bottom of the part you can see that it has broken off. It appears to be some sort of plastic. The choke linkage attaches to this. I have the linkage. I thought about trying to epoxy it back together but since it moves anytime the choke is on, I'm not sure how well it will hold up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Paul

I'm working on a restoration project of a 73Z. I'm installing 3 screw round top carbs off a 72 engine. To keep from getting things mixed up I'm working on one carb at a time. I'm currently working on the rear carb. My rebuild kit is a Napco for 72Z. Bought if from a supplier in Japan. The kit has 2 sets of needle jets. One is marked N54 and the other is marked M43. Do the front and rear carbs use different needles? If so, which one goes where? If not, which set should I be using? The car is going to be pretty much stock, manual trans and exhaust headers. I removed the needle from the rear carb slide, but I don't see any number marking on it or they are just illegible. Any help greatly appreciated.

Marty here are a few pics of the unit installed. The one pic shows two cables. These come from the back of the unit and are for a USB input, the other is for an MP3 input. The USB is a short cable and MP3 is a female jack. I had to buy longer cables to come from the back of the unit to the consul area for easier access. The pic showing the small hole below the volume control is an internal mic for hands free operation. Ralph, the guy who did my upgrade, installed this at no cost. Not sure if other authorized installers do the same. The upgrade does come with wired mic that plugs into a jack at the rear, then you can run the wire wherever you want. I believe it has 6 or 10 ft length.

ZKars...I need one. Let me know price, payment and shipping arrangements. Regards, Paul

I can send you a picture but I'm not sure it will tell you much. It looks exactly like it did originally. All the modifications are internal. I'll send you a pic next time I'm out in the shop. Tomorrow or Monday.

I'm in the process of removing the carbs and intake from my 72 engine and rebuilding and installing the round tops on my 73 240z restoration. (also so removing most all the emissions stuff). I noticed a cooling line that runs from the water outlet housing thru the intakes and back to the coolant return line. I noticed a valve on the exit of the cooling line. Thought maybe it was a check valve. After doing some research I discovered it's a thermostatic valve that shuts off coolant flow once it reaches 150 degrees. Unfortunately, it is broken. Any idea where I can get one or does anyone have one I can buy? I believe the Nissan part number is 14100-E8850 (not 100% sure of the PN) but when I run it, it shows discontinued. Tried most the aftermarket sources but nothing listed. Photo attached (note the threaded part is broke off in the manifold.