Pochie45566

They also have these tabs above each exhaust port, not sure what they’re for.

Got these off craigslist for $50 including the midsection of pipe with it. Was just wondering what kind these are and if they look to be any good. I think the midsection is home made, just by finding a newer sticker on the piping. Think they’ll be decent?

Ran through all the connections and they are correct. Ok so I do NOT have vacuum after the first magnet valve. I have 8 volts on that connector (top two in the picture) is 8 volts correct and I need to get a new magnet valve or am I looking at a wiring issue?

I traced it back to where vacuum is lost. At those two little solenoids I think? I’m not sure what they do to be honest but just before them I have vacuum then after then I do not. Do these need to have 12v at them?

The brake booster check valve? Not sure how to test it. Well I gotta start hunting for vacuum leaks in the engine bay it seems. I’ve already done some checking around I can’t see anything obvious. I’ll start looking.

Funny thing is all my vacuum lines were re done in there. I’ll check around in there. How many psi should you have going out of the vacuum tank?

Hey guys, I had an issue with my 78 280 where the defrost didn’t work and I had no heat. I knew my heater core was plugged up. So I took my dash off, ready to do a heater core swap with a 01 escort described here on the fourms. That all went well and the heater core is in. But before re installing the dash I decided to test it, but the problem has changed. There is still cold air coming out of the center vents. But I stick my hand down into the defrost tube and I feel hot air! So I felt the heater core tubes and it’s getting coolant just fine. And according to the attached diagram when the heat is on, only the floor vents and Defog is supposed to work, but air is still flowing from the center. So doesn’t this mean the mode door isn’t working? If so what can I do to start troubleshooting the mode door. I know it’s vac actuated. Is it possible that it is because the dash isn’t installed?

I grabbed my old one and twisted it, a little resistance. Now the slider doesn’t really want to turn. There’s only really 180 degrees of motion for that thing to turn without feeling like it’s going to snap. Which makes sense, the bi metal is just flat. But when it is fully turned clockwise, the slider is open say 1/3. Which isn’t much more than it was originally. But ive never adjusted one like this before, tell me your results of adjustment on yours using that method when you have a minute.

Maybe a more detailed description of the issue will help. And I do not have a secondary pickup coil if I’m correct Upon cold start it idles at 1k for 1-2 seconds then starts to drift down to around 600, bogs, and surges. Once warmed up the idle sits at 750 and runs perfectly with no problems at all. It has no problem starting in the cold at all, almost always the first crank. I have 12.5 volts at the AAR connector and the AAR does close slowly when voltage is applied. Shouldn’t it just be a matter of adjusting the AAR? But it doesn’t seem to adjust or I just don’t know how to do it. Thanks, silly mistake, this is starting to get at my nerves and I forgot I didn’t have AC for a minute ?

There are these two hoses, one coming from the top of the rad and the other going to the firewall that are not attached to anything, not sure what they’re for. one going into the firewall is on the left (in both photos). Rad one should do anything but also confuses me because it’s not in the FSM diagrams. Then again it is a new rad. The hose on the left I can’t find in any diagrams or photos either. Probably unrelated but just shooting a shot.

New known working AAR has been installed. However the same issue remains. I thought it just may be in need of adjustment also? Here is my adjustment process: Open up stone cold engine, remove AAR, hold slider open, loosen adjustment nut, push slider back further than original position, tighten adjustment nut. But the AAR moves back to its original position as if nothing was changed. Adjusting the idle fuel mix screw on the AFM doesn’t seem to do anything and I don’t think a vacuum leak is causing this because would that not be a fast idle? And it runs great and idles about perfect around 700 when warmed up. If I remember right, vac leaks after the throttle blade cause a lumpy low idle and ones before cause a high idle. Here’s a photo of my AAR slider after being stuck in the freezer for a good while. Should I be looking at ignition now? Thanks for all the guidance, I’m enjoying learning about all of this.

I followed adjustment instructions from this website, http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm, and put it back on the car, idled much better but idle got too high after a while because it was not closing. I had my idle sitting at about 1000 when cold which is where id like it if not a bit high. But once I was up to temperature, the AAR was still open about half way. Going to apply 12 v I know is good then see if it closes then.

It runs the same without the thermo time switch plugged in. The switch doesn't seem to be working anyway, the contacts are quite corroded and every sensor in that housing is new except the switch. But wouldn't that only prevent it from closing not opening? The problem here seems to be not enough air at idle. On the average morning when I pull the AAR out it is only a sliver open. Once I throw it in the freezer it is about half open. My AAR reads 60 ohms for the heater, which is what is labeled on the unit itself

I am going to arm myself with a can of carb cleaner and go vacuum leak hunting. I have replaced the PCV valve and hose, the old hose had cracked and was falling apart. If I'm correct, a vacuum leak after the throttle body causes low and lumpy idle. Before it causes a high idle. So I am most likely looking at oil pan gasket, dipstick, front seal, stuff like that. Also going to check out the charcoal canister. Would the carb cleaner trick work down on the oil pan? I don't see why not just making sure.

Ok well, it doesn’t die when I take the oil cap off or turn the idle screw in. i do have a small exhaust leak at the manifold. I notice a broken stud up there also. I’ll investigate for vacuum leaks up there. Also have an oil leak at the oil pan. could be sucking in air.

No it does not have that plug, someone has also moved that screw, I can see marks on it When removed the engine gets close to dying but doesn’t. It bogs down pretty good though. I’ll test clamping off that hose when I get home.

The alternator is actually brand new. I wonder if the belt could be slipping? It does squeak. Only when cold though. Im just looking for problems to all connect here because she runs like a champ once warm. Heres an engine bay photo then a close up of throttle body section. My AAR is missing the screws but that shouldn’t affect it. Previous owner lost a lottt of screws ?

So I got around to going through the all the troubleshooting steps in the EFI bible for rough idle and every component turned out okay. AFM resistances are spot on, i removed my throttle body and cleaned the whole thing, made sure my AAR was opening and closing, water temp sensor tests good. Im beginning to be at a loss here. I should also mention that the EGR and BCDD valves have been deleted but it did not impact this issue. When I first start the car for maybe the first 5 seconds it ides okay at around 1000 rpm then drops to about 600 where it surges and wants to die. The battery voltage gauge jumps around a good bit also. Then once warmed up it goes back to about 1000 rpm. I was reading that it could be carbon buildup on the intake valves? May need to get the engine decarbonized. Or maybe adjusting the AAR to be open even more? But it already seems to be working fine.

I’ve been working on it. Still cannot figure it out. My AAR seems to be ok. It is slightly open when cold and closes when hot. Water temp sensor checked out ok. Could it be the New afm being out of adjustment?

The floor pans look great in my opinion. Look new. That’s odd. Well I’ll order some mad dog frame rails and weld those in here soon.

Here ya go. The reason the hole is so large is because I cleaned all the flakey metal out. 8-10. Top of frame is fine

It is in the rear of the car no where near the battery. The other frame rail is 100% perfect, undercarriage has minor surface rust, body is 99% good. But the rust in that corner is real bad. Not quite sure how it only rusted there. nothing back there at all lol. Do I need to support the car in some way while I cut the frame rail down?

Hi, I have a 78z that somehow has 0 rust anywhere except the rear foot of the right frame rail. The bottom of the frame rail is rusted out down there for a good 8 inches. The other frame rail is perfect, with no rust. Floor pans are new. No rust on the suspension or body. So don't really want to scrap it ?. Not sure how it rusted in only that one spot also. But onto my question. I should mention that I am new to dealing with rust, so am seeking guidance here. Would it be better to buy 2 new frame rails and weld the both on or do you think I can just cut that section in the back down to good metal and rebuild those last 8 inches of it? I can weld pretty well but I do not have a rotisserie or anything like that. It would just be a pain to have to do both frame rails and never is as easy as just welding them on top of the old ones. I wouldn't be so apprehensive to weld new ones on if that wasn't the only spot of rust on the car.

That is a good point. Its hard for me to differentiate between a fast idle and low idle problem considering the idle screw has to be pretty high to keep it from dying when it’s cold. I’ll check it out and report back.

Ill do some testing on the AAR but i'd bet its my issue. Now time to find a new one. I know bosch makes one, so did nissan. All the identical part numbers seem to bring up parts that are no longer made. I will go to a pick a part here soon and try to find one. Could look on L series datsuns, and BMW of similar era id bet. Or if anyone here wants to sell me one hah. Update: I found out that you can throw the AAR from a 300zx in there. I found one for about 50 bucks. Before I pull the trigger on the ebay listing here, i'd like to test mine. Still going to choose an original part over this if I can find it though. Bear with me here, but the test would be throw it in the freezer, connect it up to a battery, then watch the valve slowly go from half-ish open to fully closed as it heats up? But it needs to be on the battery during this whole process.