Pochie45566

Yes, I just did and there is no fuel coming out of that line. When I take off the oil cap, there is no change in how the engine runs.

I tested the water temp sensor via the ecu and it checks out so I think I am good there. It’s just odd my AFM idle screw seems to not do anything Also at idle I have 28 psi of fuel pressure with 19 psi of vacuum which I read somewhere else of the forum that those are good numbers. Should I do further fuel pressure testing?

Hey, My z has lately been running rich. It smells okay but when I pull the plugs they have a decent amount of carbon buildup. I have gone through every component check in the EFI manual and can assure that all EFI components are working as they should. So I leaned out the car by tensioning the spring in the AFM, a lot. And it did get leaner but the plugs are still sooty. So I leaned it out more, and the car wants to die at idle. I then turned the AFM idle control screw clockwise to richen up the idle and it does nothing. It seems that the fix of my problems would be to just richen the idle but I can't seem to control that via the idle screw on the AFM. Any ideas what I could check?

Oh cool! Your z looks phenomenal! So just eibach lowering springs and 240 isolators in the rear. That’s interesting that the front doesn’t need any change. Would you say your stance is pretty level? If I needed to make any adjustments would it be better to cut the isolator or cut the spring?

Wait so let me confirm, use the 240z isolators in the front and rear? How do I lower the front then? Because the the front isolator looks to be the same for the two. Will you post a picture of your stance?

Would in use the isolators from the rear of the 240z in the front and back of my 280? Also how much drop would this give me? Edit: can someone tell me where to buy those? Can’t find them online.

Hey, I took the big bumpers off of my 78 280z recently and replaced them with the 240z bumpers on the front and back, but now my ride height is super high, probably around 3 inches of wheel gap. Would it be possible to buy those MSA lowering springs for the 240z and put them on? The 280z ones advertise a drop of 1 inch but I am looking for more like 2 inches. However I dont want to buy coil overs for they are very expensive and I dont want to cut springs if I don’t have to. Since the 240 is so much lighter I think that the 280z which is still a bit heavier with the bumpers off, so it will weight those down a bit more. Any consequences of doing this? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20c01/23-4041

Something similar here happened to my Z, I reccomend that you do the honda wiper motor conversion, it pretty much bolts right up and requires very little modification. Just go to your nearest pick a part and I think its the wiper motor out of like a 2002 civic or accord. Just google search 240z honda wiper motor and there are a few great write ups. While you’re at it, disassemble your wiper linkage a grease up the whole thing and replace the c clip holding on the main linkage thing.

Thanks for writing all of this up. I appreciate the guidance and I’ll try to nail down this problem. Writing it all out as I go. On paper that is hahah. Thanks!

If I raise the idle speed at the TB it gets too high once the engine is up to temp. I think my issue is outside of the AAR but I honestly don’t know where to go from here. No air is leaking past the AAR once it’s closed and the plug does have power.

The issue that happened after the headers has been solved. That issue was that the engine was missing and wouldn't rev up at all. I think that Zed Head is referring to an earlier post of mine where I am diagnosing a low idle upon cold start issue. I do not have fast idle on startup and I can't find the issue for the life of me. I also can't seem to adjust my AAR which you would suspect was the cause of this issue. I have tried two AAR valves and the problem is consistent with both of them.

I just blew through the whole AAR system and air flows through pretty well. Only bottleneck is the AAR. If I knew how to effectively adjust the damn thing this problem would be through. I can’t figure out how to adjust it, the set screw doesn’t seem to do anything

Just thought I’d give an update. I let it sit overnight and went out in the morning with my multimeter, took out the ecu, realized my meter was dead. So I put it back together and started it and it ran fine. No idea how it got fixed but nothing less. Sounds awesome now.

Considering I haven't ran it enough to foul them I think they're ok but yes, sooty.

The 32 PSI was with the engine off. I did have to mess with the FPR a bit to get it to clear the throttle linkage maybe I messed it up. . I will go in there and do the component checks stated in the EFI bible.

I just swapped the two, and no change. Still does not want to start and runs horribly. It is a 78' 280, Stock EFI system, new injectors, water temp sensor, maf, AAR. It ran fine before the headers and had no issues. It just now idles low, doesn't want to rev, runs rich. I got new studs when I did the system so none of them broke off and all are torqued down pretty well. I checked for any spots air could be getting into the fuel lines because I did have to take off the rail. Nothing came up.

my thought exactly. My foot needs to be on the gas for it to run at all. It runs so rich theres a cloud behind the car.

Hey, I just put some 3-2 headers on my 78 EFI z and once I cranked it over and got it warmed up, it doesn't run right. I have 32 psi fuel pressure, labeled all connectors and lines when I took them off. I can't see where I went wrong. It is running extremely rich, will not rev, needs gas pedal to start. It sound like I am missing spark but I'm not sure how this would have happened? I didn't touch the distributor at all. Thoughts? I can post some pictures of the engine if that would be helpful.

Hey guys, i started the Honda motor conversion and when I was cutting the shaft of the new motor, I didn’t cut the shaft at the exact same angle. So instead of being cut like this / it’s more like \ so the wipers don’t park right. Any way for me to set the park correct or just cut losses and get a new motor. And cut don’t cut the threads, File out the z linkage!

Well guys, I am in pretty deep and kind of lost. Maybe you all can help me here. 1. My 78’ 280z wiper motor wiring is completely different from the FSM! The FSM shows yellow/black, blue/red, blue yellow, black. I have yellow, blue/red, blue/white, black, then two more black! The wiper motor in there was not stock and those two extra wires were going directly into the side of the motor. I followed the wiring diagram, just supplementing blue/yellow for blue white and the wipers work. But only at one speed. Any ideas? I followed the wiring diagram. Bet it has something to do with those two black wires. Edit: If I could find a chart showing voltage of each wire that would be very helpful 2. When cutting the wiper motor shaft down to size to fit the Z linkage, I didn’t pay attention to the angle at which I cut them. So I looked at the Z motor, which is cut at an angle like this /. And mine is cut more like this \. I believe this is not allowing my wipers to park correctly because as much as I try to adjust them to park at the bottom, they end up right about in the middle. My procedure for setting the park was disconnecting linkage, letting motor get to park position, setting wipers on desired park position. But still, they park in the middle. Really In need of some help here, sorry for the lengthy post. Thanks guys.

Does anyone have one of these center linkage pieces they could sell me? Also I read somewhere that there’s an E clip that holds it together and I could just find a new one and put it on. Anyone know what size? And how to install.

Someone has been in here before me, the linkage moves very smoothly without any problems. I don’t even think my wiper motor died. I just think the linkage broke in the center there

Hey guys, my wiper motor gave out while driving my Z home in the middle of a huge rain storm. Was a terrible time getting her home safe and never want to do that again. So I started the Honda motor swap, but once my center wiper linkage came off, I can’t figure out how it went on in the first place. I feel like I am missing some parts. Anyone know how this thing goes back together? Is there a section of the FSM I am missing?

Well... Nike seems to think I have trouble at least... hahahah if I see any header for $50 let alone a header + midpipe I’ll snag you it ?

That makes much more sense, they were pulled off an e88 head 260z and are in pretty good condition so I am going to throw them on my n42 head 280z. They are square port but it shouldn’t matter that much, I’ll just get a 260z gasket. I don’t see any problems with this fitment do you? Since they sell the same header for the e88 as they do the n42. I stopped looking for them on the MSA site after I saw the collector was a bit further back than all the MSA ones but I can see the design is quite similar