MH77280Z

It was extremely tight but with gloves on i was able to get couple of turns to get the cable seated on the threads. Rest was the pliers ... (you have to go under the dash with a light to have some visibility).

Finally got the clock back after 10 weeks!!! (instrumentworks) and was able to get the dash back in place. I should have replaced the bulbs in the rest of the cluster but was too tired of waiting and got lazy on that job. The rest of the cluster is a bit dim but I am not taking the dash out again. Experience ... putting the dash back in and connecting that speedo cable was the most difficult job on this car in my opinion. I recommend anyone taking the dash and putting the windshield gasket together to put the dash in first. Installing the windshield with the rope method is extremely easy and can be done after the dash is installed. For reference I was able to find this extended length pliers to tighten the cable on the speedometer else there is no room from the bottom to reach out to it with hand. It is impossible to tighten it all the way. I was able to barely put it on with my hand with just couple of turns to keep steady, then use pliers. With the windshield off it might be more easy to reach to the speedocable from the back/windshield side.

Everything look nice and tight. Appreciate everyone’s input guys. Waiting for the clock to arrive so that dash can go in.

My bad one of the lines at the vacuum tank connector was ripped. Everything works fine now. 🫡

Solenoid meaning the magnetic valves? I am very sure the vacuum actuators were working before I took the lines off.

Well just got done with under dash hoses. Vacuum is not getting to the dash. I am sure both intake and mode door vacuum actuators were working before.

Ok so here it is Gates 19044. It’s a longer hose that can be cut to the right fit but is a 99% match. I can throw my old ones safely 😊

The tape sticks very strong. In fact as you can see u can also press it to go in between hose spaces. Pretty happy with it. The original hoses were ripping at few places, now they gonna last another 50 years. I had noticed the original hoses on the inside has foam, this makes the flow of air more smooth. Plus they go on the inside so probably not worried about the silver appearance.

Found the right solution…aluminum tape. Here is the original in dash hose. Planning to wrap all of them.

Guys, the air ducts connecting to left and right air vents are ripped on couple of places. They are cloth kind of material and a bit dusty and tape doesnt stick. Want to keep the original ones as I put the dash back in. Any tips what to use to seal or repair these rips?

I thought about it, it looks a bit beat up but was actually in a better shape than the other two U and elbow which I did changed. Is there a matching replacement for it?

The vintage rubber weather strip is just fine. It covers all four corners. I don’t think there is any need to spend $400 on the OEM. Thanks for the reference.

The most challenging part was probably cleaning the old gasket off the car. Then installing the trim back in. Without the dash it took me about 15 mins to get the glass installed back in. I did buy the rope installing tool from Amazon. It makes it so much easy and like someone said start at the bottom with about 12-18in overlap of the rope.

While we are on this topic, where do u get this black insulation that is on the vapor line coming from evaporator in the dash and going into engine through the firewall? there is a rip in it and I was wondering to redo this before I put the dash back.

Joe heatervalves.net was a life saver. Shipped the valve back within 24-hours of getting the new seal in and water pressure tested. Ran the car idle 10 mins and all seems nice and holding. U hose was: Dayco 86050 the exact fit with some trimming.