Darrel

Does not get my sense of humor. :-D But then not everyone does. ;-)

bunch of damn vultures.

*burp* thanks kenny. :-D

For patch metal, check your yellow pages for commercial door shops. They will have cutouts from flush panel doors that you can use for patches. 24 x 30 cutouts etc. Most will be 18 gauge metal. More than likely they will give it to you free.

she have a sister?

I thought I would put this out there about finding the bump stops. Advance Auto Parts-- energy suspension $12.99 per pair Checker- #11.99/pair When you go to your local auto parts store, check the "Performance" section of the store. If they have them they will be near the sway bar links and ES transmission mounts. As far as price, You can go to ES suppliers and get them cheaper, but add to that shipping and handling it will be over the local parts store prices.

As far as heating your work space, radiants are good for heat, but if you're right in front of it it can get too hot. They will warm you and not the air around you. You could probably get one of those bullet heaters from a pawn shop and run it sporadically to keep the chill out. This is what I do when I work on my car in my brother's garage. As always with gas/kerosine fired heaters be careful of CO and keep it ventilated.

those pics were from last year. That was nothing compared to the blizzard we I had in '82. Then you could barely see the roofs of the cars. I basically had to tunnel my way out. So far this year I have had to shovel the drive about 4 times. Luckily the temps were above freezing following the storm and the snow didn't last long. In the denver area it isn't unheard of to see 70F during winter. This past week we have seen a couple of days in the single digits.

need I say more?

I think that's what I did to my bump stop. Maybe one more step, but That looks good. That's a good thought about the bump stop settling down. Thanks for the pic. The only way to get a good pic while it's installed would be to drop the driveshaft.

wuss had too few characters to post for the forum software, so I will have to say wussy!! But seriously, cleaned them out see how extensive the rust is, forget about the mechanical parts of the car. After all it's the shell of the core that is most important of cars these age. Is the rust swiss cheese throughout the whole car, or just in a few places? From the newer pics I can see both have had new paint, over spray on the windshield washer bottle and passenger door striker on the one that had the odd 1/4 panel, and the other had some more work on the driver side with mismatched paint. But they might not be as bad when you clean them up. They may both be candidates for restoration or refreshing, not by you then by someone who will take on a challenge.

if they do still have the hooks, they are plenty strong enough to drag the cars onto the trailer. In emergency they are strong enough to even tow with. But since they probably don't have any brakes towing with chain or strap isn't an option. Since you do have a couple of trailers make use of the hooks. Carl, he has the vin numbers in one of two threads he started.

My reason for asking about them being repainted, with the original paint you are able to see the real condition of the panels. If they have been repainted, then there is a good chance there might be bondo hidden under a "new" paint job, even an old paint job. You got a heck of a deal on one for the price, let alone 2 for the same price. Keep us up to date on your progress and post more pics as you go along.

They should have tow hooks under the bumpers front and back. They look really solid. Do they have original paint?

correct length bolts holding the t-stat housing on?

need some help with those ken? I could bring my muffler up to get welded. ;-)

he's real close to you ken

There is a metal sleeve in the mustache bar. On a stock rubber bushing, the sleeve is hammered down to fit over the mustache bar. The eurathane bushings for the mustache bar are made so you can keep the sleeve.

Who ever uses the bump stop, please take pics so we have a record of the install and measurements. I would have, but it was the night before my track day and I was replacing the diffy as well. I don't think I got 4 hrs sleep.

Don't wait for the new mount to rip before installing the rt. Get the bump stop and keep the stock mount. Pics are in previous posts.

She works at the post office and doesn't know the usps has money orders? Kenny, ya need to go to a different post office!

Not really. After bolting in the rt mount, raise the crossmember all the way up and measure the clearance from the top of the diff to the bottom of the rt mount. There may be differences between r-200 and r180. A small floorjack would work well to raise the diff, unless you are using a lift then an exhaust stand would work.

yeah, when that happened to me I was licking my ba-doublehockeysticks.

We have RMVR as one of the main clubs. Along with HPR, they have PPIR, pikes peak hill climb, and I believe hastings motorsports park. Hope to see more cars in the future.

Make sure you set aside some time in your schedule next year for a trip to High Plains Raceway in Colorado. Our track is a bit more open, and is a lot of fun. http://www.highplainsraceway.com/track.html