Av8ferg

On a side note. I discovered I had some battery connection problems. The two red wires coming from the fire wall were both connected to the positive terminal, looking at the cars wiring diagram one is supposed to go to negative and the other the positive. My battery positive side fuse link had one of the two wires cut, I don’t know why there are two small wires from that connection but I connected one back to the positive. Does this look right now?

ZH, thanks. I found that hose to the canister. I just pulled the power relay off.. Is there a way to test this off the car? Here some close ups of it.

Gents, back working on the Z. I’ve solved a couple problems but still have others I’m working on. I’ve got fuel pressure issue fixed. It’s holding stable at 35-40 psi with the pump running. I still have to jump the pump to the battery as it will not work with the key. I disconnected the starter power and stated going through the checks in the FSM. It appears I’m getting no power to both the fuel pump or the injectors. I also don’t hear any click on the drivers side kick panel. Finally, I have need help with something on the intake manifold. There is small connection that I don’t know where it is supposed to go. See photo. When I try and start the car it spits air out this hole. When I putting starting fluid in there my assistant said a blue flame shot out of this hole. Any ideas what’s supposed to be attached here? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Zed Head, Thanks. That might have been the problem. I don’t think the key was in “On” I think it was in “ACC”. I hope that was the bonehead mistake I made. The old ignition switch was definitely bad. Tested both new and old side by side with the multi meter. I’m on a work trip will attach when I get back. Thanks for the link. [emoji106]. OBTW I meant crank not turn over. Words have meanings especially when details matter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One humiliation after another. Got the switch installed and when i turned it over got the “floor heat” (not sure what the heck that light means), no other lights (oil pressure or brake). I stated to go through the steps for No Start in the EFI manual. During the power relay test I didnt get a click sound from relay, I tested yhe voltage at it stated on pin 4 and a ground and got nothing. Says to go to service manual EF-47. I cannot ge the FSM on my ipad (wont unzip and asks for password, downloaded from Xenoncar) and dont have a laptop with me. I’ll print the FSM at work tonight. This is getting painful. As soon as I think I might have found a solution I hit another roadblock.

Good news. Just tested my ignition switch and it is totally dead doing the continuity test. I just bought a new one, tested it with the multimeter and now headed to my garage to install it. Will report back.

Dave, I saw a guy posted a video of testing his Z ignition switch. You’re right it looks fairly easy. I’m glad a replacement is affordable if it is bad. When you don’t know the history of a vehicle and why it came off the road 18 yrs ago so many things can be wrong.

Cliff, When I got the car it had no battery. After putting in a new battery in and trying to turn the car over, I got nothing, no powerto anything. I check the normal fuses in the passenger kick panel and they were all good. I then jumped the stater terminals with a screw driver and I could get the engine to turn over. This was how I did my engine compression check. I did some research and I read about the fusible links in the engine compartment and how they could be a problem. My car was missing one fusible link and the other two looked old and cracked. I bought all new ones and cleaned the terminals well. That enabled the car to turn over. I still have no interior lights. I’ve never tried the turn on the headlights. Is it possible I have a bad ignition switch? Could that also explain why the fuel pump doesn’t work with the key in the “on” position. I don’t want to jump to conclusions here.

Thanks for the link to the EFI Theory and Troubleshooting guide. Ive been reading it from begining to end,. I learned a lot and its given me a logical path forward. I head back to Memphis to work on the car this weekend. First step in the troubleshooting section says that the greatest source of problems with the injection system is the connections. Like I said before mine are in terrible shape. While I know Zed Head mentioned that i need to focus on isolating the probelm step by step, I feel not addressing the wiring/connections will lead me down some rabbit holes. i.e. thinking i have a bad component vs a bad connection. Also, something I have forgotten to mention until researching starting issues online that I wanted to ask you pros if you think it could be another clue to my issue. When I turn the ignition key to the “on” position I get no lights in the car. I mean no dash lights. I think I'm suppsed to see the red “brake” light and the red oil pressure light and possibly a buzzer. I could be wrong, I dont know what I'm suppsed to see becasue i see not lights at all. Thanks.

I do appreciate the help in case I forgot to mention it. I’d be way behind without your help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BTW, I’m laughing because my wife always says I need to focus on a single task too. I’m distracted easily [emoji849] I think part of it stems from the work I do. I flew fighters for 21 years and you are constantly changing tasks.

Zed Head, Agreed, I don’t think the connectors are the reason it’s not starting but I do know mine are bad. They are cracked and will not stay on the injectors. They pull off with not effort and will not lock in. They need to be replaced. Since I’m running through the FSM continuity checks and already found a problem it’s seems prudent to make sure the connections are solid. I don’t think it’s too outside the box. I know I need to test the AFM, I know the tank is shot and I plan on addressing those items as soon as I return. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a set on eBay from Classic Imports 240z seller. He’s got great reviews and seems to deal on classic Z parts. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injector-AFM-TPS-Wiring-Harness-Connector-Kit-for-Datsun-280z-Nissan-280zx/152245949681?fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item237290d4f1:g:MwsAAOSwhQhY2B2G Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me know if you find them. I see all sort of variations on eBay. Prices are wildly different. I want to order them tonight so I can bring them back to Memphistan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a photo I took before removing the fuel rail. I can see what your are talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EuroDat, Great explanation, I will check that as soon as I get back. I checked my other photos and I just can’t see under that hose covering that connection. One note was after I had all that pressure when I tested the rail I could later hear gurgling back near the fuel tank. It sounded like fuel slowing returning to the tank. This was several minutes later. I’d think it would have occurred almost immediately. Might be indicative of a small blockage in three. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I was just asking if electronic ignition is a good way to go. You are correct, I haven’t tested it yet but up to this point just about everything seems to be bad on this car. It sat for 18 yrs in a garage. To be honest I haven’t even researched how to test my distributor. I have tested the coil and it’s firing. Last time I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and turned it over I got a small pop and fire started at the entrance of the intake manifold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Zed Head, You’re not being an arse. I appreciate your candor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh jezz these AFMs are year specific. I know one of the extras I have came off a 1978. This guy had a 78 that he bought for 5k and sold for 28k it was a Black Pearl edition and he converted it to carbs. This is where all my extra parts came from. I’ll have to look at numbers when I’m back in Memphistan.

Zed Head, Yeah, pressure was up around 55 psi. So high it actually started leaking out of a few connections and spraying all over. Thanks for the gouge on the AFM testing. I’m going to test my other AFMs when I’m back in Memphis. I don’t think the fuel rail is clogged because I took it apart and I blew through all the lines. I took before and after pics so I think it’s installed correctly but at this point I’m not sure about anything on that rail anymore. I’m considering dumping that rail anyway and getting one like Cliff recommended, I looked around and see that there are many options. Do you guys have a recommendations? I like the clean look took of a aftermarket rail. Those aftermarket rails seem so less complicated. I don’t have time to build my own just want to buy it ready to install. So.... 1. Rebuild all connections 2. Test AFM 3. Put in new rail. What do you guys think about installing an electronic ignition in the distributor and dumping the points? Was reading about that but only saw references to 240z and not 280z. I ran in to a guy that had an old international scout and he put on in his distributor and said his car runs so much better.

Cliff, Is this the connector kit you referred to? https://www.ebay.com/i/152098683825?chn=ps&fl=a&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fi%252F152098683825%253Fchn%253Dps%2526fl%253Da%26itemid%3D152098683825%26targetid%3D400308412224%26device%3Dt%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9010186%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1030262527%26adgroupid%3D51036957339%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-400308412224%26abcId%3D1130066%26merchantid%3D114711896%26gclid%3DEAIaIQobChMI27rzjsSZ2QIVQoGzCh29WwcdEAQYAiABEgK-DPD_BwE%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1436814487190

Great advice. Why the resistance setting on the multimeter. What reading would I be looking for? I think it might be best to check the entire harness out and put all new connections on. I forgot to mention that the fuel pump does not pump when installed in the car. It works fine when hard wired to the battery. So I know there is some electrical or relay issues I need to track down. Alas even when I connect the pump directly and tried to start the car I got nothing but over pressure in the fuel line. I don’t think the injectors are getting the electrical signal to fire. I didn’t smell fuel from the tail pipe either. I have multiple issues to address and really don’t know where to start. I guess the fuel tank? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I finally got a couple of hours to work on the car. I had a small disaster while away. I left the fuel line detached from the fuel tank since it was clogged up anyway. Well at some point the line began to leak. I spilled at least two gallons of gas on the garage floor. Needless to say my roommates and owner of the house were ticked off the whole house smelled like a gas station for 3 days. Also stained his expoy floor. So, I have come to several conclusions. 1, The fuel tank is rusted. 2. I have a fuel injection system wiring or component problem. I started running through the service manual and when I got to step 3 (page EF-22j) I got no continuity on check 3a and 3b. This is the AFM check. It says if “contunity does not exist........N.G” then check the circuit indicated on EF-39. So I guess I need to pull the AFM connector and see if the wire has an open and if not it means I have a bad AFM? I checked the connection and it was seated properly. Of note I have two other AFMs on hand. Upon inspection basically all my connections on the EFI wire harness are crap. Most of them really don’t stay seated and are brittle and fragile. I suspect I need to rebuild all the connectors. This won’t solve my starting problem but it will have to be done for any reliability. This EFI system is starting to wizz me off. I feel like I’ll be chasing one thing after another. Today I really starting to think switching to carbs is the way to go. Heck then if we are hit by an EMP I’ll have a car to drive. ? I have 2 weeks to get this car running or I’m going to have to tow it to NC and let it sit a year until my house is finished being built. The owner of the crash pad in Memphis isn’t thrilled about a broken car sitting in his garage, He’s given me 2 weeks, I’m just not sure I can do it in that short of time. I hate to put it in a storage unit for a year when I feel like I’m close. Vest frustrated. What do you guys think?