Av8ferg

So I failed to do my research like Capt Obvious. I’ve read that 77 and 78 have different door windows that earlier Z’s. So now l’ll try and sell it on eBay. ?. This one is from a 1975

I was thinking the same thing

It will sit in a hot garage for 5 days. Hopefully that will suffice. Break....break EuroDat, thanks for the measurements. I tried to pull the line of the Z’s in the yard today but the fitting were rusted and I would have stripped them out. Will bring PB blaster next time and a proper fitting wrench and try again otherwise will try a diffferent approach. Lastly will this driver’s side window fit in my 77? I know they made some door changes that year but not sure if it effected window attachment or figment.

I already left but can grab them possibly next week, forgot about your request.

Good score today at a salvage yard in NC not the one crushing that 1975. This place had 3 280zs. See pics. I got a drivers window (mine is scratched to hell), a hood cable, shock tower seat belt cover (mine is cracked) all for $40. Capt Obvious they have 2 brake boosters $25.

I need a favor. I forgot to mention the when I pulled my brake master cylinder there were no lines connected to it. I appears the PO forgot to put them back in and I never noticed it because they connect under the master cylinder. I’m sure its next to impossible to order these two specific lines individually so I was think a flex line possibly. Since I’m now headed back to NC I cant measure the lengh I need.

So the tank didn't cost me extra $$ but its been a hassle. It took three tries for them to get it right. First time they didn’t repaint the outside and just did a primer, so I said please finish the job. 2nd time I went to pick it up the filler pipe was still rusty inside and they lost the drain plug. 3rd time I went to pick it up and shined a flash light inside they missed a 4”x4” spot in the tank on the top. They then reboiled and stripped it all one more time and then rebaked the coating, and now it looks like new. This porcess took about 5 weeks because they’d “finish” the job and I would have to wait to get back to TN. See pics. I dont have the before pics because my iphone went tits up and I hadn't synced it...hint sync your phone every 2 weeks. My phone was only 4 months old, Needless to say the tank was really bad inside. On the bumpers. I like the 260 bumpers too. Cliff, i watched a vid of removing the rear bumper shocks and it seem they need to come out by pushing them and the tank would be in the way. Maybe there is a way but seems like a tight space. I don't really want to repull the tank bit it might be the right plan. I think these 77 bumpers looks like crap but wanted to focus my limited time to geting the functional aspects of the car done.

Capt Obvious that was some impressive research on the TVV. You are a true lover of these cars....thanks for that. So I got my fuel tank back today ($350 later) they had to redo the entire boiling and sealing process. Will install when I return to Memphis on Sunday. I’ve debated pulling the rear bumper off now with the tank out but I’ll still have that drip edge that welded that might look odd. You guys think I should pull the bumper now or wait and pull the tank at a future date. I’m hoping the car starts with a fresh tank and clean fuel. If it doesn’t I’ll need to serious help as what to do next.

Do any of you guys know if these rivets will work to install interior tirm? I’m not interested in paying $1 per rivet that I see on Z parts sites. I need to start installing my trim I have in boxes. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Black-Plastic-Bumper-Lining/dp/B01913JEKS/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525723377&sr=1-11&keywords=5mm+interior+screws

Yep, and my car has AC so it might become a problem. If it does I’ll probably have to go with electric fans.

Darn, I tossed that old rad. It looked like it was a prop in the Mad Max movie. They wanted $300 to repair it. I really can’t srore parts where the car is anyway and im already on the bad side with the owner for various garage infractions.

O’reillys has a master cylinder for $52. Its made by Nabco (same co that made my OEM clutch master but is not a Tokico.) An OEM Tokico one is online from $250-$329, not sure if thats worth it.

Good point on the fan shroud and philosophy on OEM parts. Car came without a shroud and I replaced the radiator because when they tested the old one at a shop it had 5 leaks and it was cheaper to buy a new one. Not sure if a OEM shroud will fit if I can find one...

Worked on the Z today. The tank wont be ready now until Wednesday so i turned to other tasks. -Replaced the clutch slave cylinder -Removed the front bumper which was damaged on one side and I'm putting 240 bumpers on somewhere in the distant future. -Removed the brake master cylinder. It had black residue in the reservoirs and a white chaulk powder inside where it connects to the booster and overall did not look serviceable. My brakes just go tp the floor also. Ordering a new one tonight. Do you guys always buy OEM parts? I replaced my clutch salve cylinder by one from Beck Arnley. Also cleaned the outside of thr car. Probably hasn’t been properly washed in at least a decade. Here are some pics of hos she looks.

I think I discovered why, The one you had was for a 1978. Is there any differenc., my instinct says no.?

Capt Obvious, is that Thermal Vacuum Switch from RockAuto meant for a 280z. When I put the year make and model 1977 280z, it didn’t come up with the close out switch. This is what I found,

Great comments. Capt Obvious made me LOL. I will bring you that brake booster when I get permission from my wife to go. See, she hate cars and anything that take time away from her. Thanks for the link to the part...buying 2. Yeah I live in Coastal NC but work in Memphis. The car is in Memphis. Plan when I bought it off eBay about an hour south of Memphis was to getting it running and then drive it back to N.C. That plan had turned into a partial nightmare. I don’t get a lot of hands on time with the car and when I do and find a problem I have to order parts and wait another cycle to get to attempt to get it running. The car is in a garage at my crash pad and the owner isn’t thrilled about how long it’s taken to get running. He especially enjoyed the fuel leak when I removed the tank and stained his expoy floor. So I’m motivated to get this car road worthy to say the least. I appreciate all the help guys.

I got that little bugger in there. Pulled the seat out and then put my head lamp on so I could free up a hand. I just got lucky. I tried the vise grip approach but there is a vert hose that gets in the way. I head to the salvage yard next week. I like the idea of getting the cars glass. My windshield has some serious scratches from where a PO ran the wipers without a wiper blade. Not sure if that windshield glass is easy to come by. I don’t think Safelite will have one. ?

I got that little bugger in there. Pulled the seat out and then put my head lamp on so I could free up a hand. I just got lucky. I tried the vise grip approach but there is a vert hose that gets in the way. I head to the salvage yard next week. I like the idea of getting the cars glass. My windshield has some serious scratches from where a PO ran the wipers without a wiper blade. Not sure if that windshield glass is easy to come by. I don’t think Safelite will have one. ?

What does the EGR do for me? I’m not worried about emissions just want it to run well. I’ve seen the EGR delete kits, what are the pros and cons?

Moving back to this thread for a question. As I was tracking down misc hoses disconnected And looking through the FSM i found where two of my emmisions/ vacuum hoses belong. They go to this thing called the Thermal Vacuum Valve. It appears the plastic connection to mine are broken off. See attached photo. My car is a CA model. What is the function of this thing and do i need it connected? My assumption is Yes but wanted to ask before spending more $$.

Great sounds like fun. Changing a broken door handle was a Houdini trick I struggled with and this appears to be the same PITA.

While Im waiting for the tank I’ve decided to replace my clutch master cylinder. What a pain to get that pin to the pedal back in. You need really small hands to get that puppy in, I’ve been fighting it for almost an hour. No luck yet. Anyone have a trick?

They were apologetic. I bet the salavage yard has it but it’s 90 miles away and I have to fly out this afternoon. I need a full day there to strip that car. I’ll grab it next week when I go there, good call!

Well, not going to be able to install tank today because the place doing the work did a poor job and has to retreat it. They missed a big spot and never inspected their work. I found it on my inspection. They also lost the drain plug ?. I can’t determine its size, appeared to be an M8 but not sure on thread pitch. I found the part number and now have to order from JP-carparts.com. $15 after shipping from Japan. Probably need to wait 10 days for that plus, they need 4 days to retreat tank. I’m pissed, especially after paying over $350 to have them do the tank work.