Av8ferg

Gents, So I thought I’d start a new thread on this since I’m now on the reassembly phase. I’ve had a few issues with the crank install albeit all self-induced. I’ve posted a video on the crankshaft install and my concerns and questions. Concerns: -How much free spin force is normal? -The shop has the caps in 180 out but in right location when I got the engine block back. -Did I damage a bearing when we accidentally torqued caps to 58 ft lbs? -Book says torque to 33-40 ft lbs, I set 36lbs. -Thrust bearing clearance, could not determine. Video capture all these concerns Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, hopefully I won’t have to redo the job but if I do I know what I’ll use next time. Dave, I’ll run this engine on a stand like you did and fully test it while the car is getting paint and body work. If she leaks, I’ll know before install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, thanks Cliff. They went in pretty tight and I lined the slots with Ultra Black Gasket Maker prior. Didn’t know they were imbedded. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Question, I ordered my rear main seal from Zcardepot and it came with The main seal and two side seals but not side pins. This is supposed to be an OEM Nissan part (came in Nissan bag). It doesn’t come with The metal side pins. Do I need these? I’ve already set the rear main cap with seal and side seals and RTV in the corners and notches where side seal go. Do I need to redo this and add those metal shims in there? https://zcardepot.com/products/rear-main-seal-kit-engine-oem-240z-260z-280z?_pos=2&_sid=5908879bd&_ss=r Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks CO. I just noticed the site problem around the time you sent this. I’ll email them and see where it goes. Thanks again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree. Would have been far worse if it happened later while driving passing 5000 RPM. Now I wonder if I should change the rod bolts too. I know it’s not as easy as new bolts. I recall CO saying there needs to be something done to at the shop level to make the fitment correct. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had an “Oh Crap!” moment today installing the crankshaft. Was almost finished and torquing the main caps down. Followed the book exactly. While torquing cap #5 it happened. When the bolt goes from tight to loose all of a sudden. Yep, she broke. Torque wrench was set to 38 ft lbs. book says 33-40 ft lbs. I opted for something in the middle. Only good thing was there was enough threads sticking out after removing the cap that I was able to grab it with a vise grip and she came out easily. No tapping required. So, I’m at a work stoppage. I’ve lost confidence in the rest of the bolts so I’m ordering a new set. http://datnissparts.com/ld28-main-cap-bolts-set-of-14-for-datsun-l6-l24-l26-l28-240z-260z-280z-280zx-810-910-maxima-12293-v0700/ Planning on buying these. Yes, I confirmed the torque setting, wrench is new and high quality and I didn’t miss the break point inadvertently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ready for assembly... Got bearings, main seals and new head bolts. Waiting on my rings and head gasket. Reading trough the “ How to modify your Datsun OHC engine” last night he states that you only need to worry about shimming cam towers and chain slack when the head has be shave .0030 or more from stock. So I’m thinking I should be good with my .0014. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been researching the idea of Filling these holes. JB Weld, Devon Aluminum Epoxy and another product called Alvin Hi-Temp. They’re all similar product. I think I’ll try the JB Weld. I don’t think it would be a problem even if I left it alone because they are so minor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went to see how my head looked at the Machine Shop while dropping off the valve stem seals. Looks pretty good, all valve seats were redone and the one bad one replaced. Looks like he took another .009 off the head to get the surface to a place he thought was good. There is still some minor corrosion pits left but he thinks it will not be a problem and recommended this copper gasket spray to put on the gasket if I wanted better assurance of a perfect seal. Right now the head measures 4.241”. Stock I believe is 4.255” Here are the pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, you need to keep your library more organized. The Dui Decimal System is outdated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, here she is. This paint is called Cast Coat Iron DE1651 by Duplicolor. I think it looks pretty awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ike this: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, after much consideration and debate with some car buffs in my neighborhood I think I’ve decided to depart from tradition. My car isn’t being brought back to stock anyway and I still have my stock block also that’s original. This car is not a Series 1, 240z where being 100% stock brings significant value to the car. The blue engine block is really an odd color and doesn’t match well with red (my car color is 110 Red). So I’m considering now painting the block a light graphite gray. It will go well with the blacks, aluminum and stainless parts. I’m not blinging out my engine. It will have black hoses and mostly a stock look except for an new fuel rail. I have a red powder coated valve cover already. Could look nice, but the blue would throw it all off (Superman colors red and blue) Here’s pic of my valve cover. I know Captain Obvious just threw up in shock for departing tradition...(“Gomenasia”). I promise it won’t be a gaudy rice burner look. Like I said if someday a run of the mill 77 actual is collectible (unlikely) then I break out the old motor and put it back in. That engine will remain a backup and tucked away in my garage in long term preservation. Waiting for the arrows coming my way! You can still change my mind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Captain! I’ve decided that I’m not too concerned about getting exact stock engine color. My neighbor has an 82 ZX and the engine is 100% stock and it is probably closest to GM Blue. You can’t pick it up in the photos but it has a hint of green in it unlike Chrysler Blue which is all baby bluish. I need to get paint on this block before the rust attacks it. The POR-15 metal prep did a great job of getting the surface ready. It converted the micro rust in the pours of the casting to a polymer that is paintable. The humidity’s a bit high for painting but letting it sit too long is a worse option. I live 500 yards from the Atlantic Ocean and the salt air here is brutal on metal. I’ll post photos after. Any clue what that area that looks like someone filled a hole. Not sure if it was that or something rubbing from the junkyard or it’s transport. I don’t see any compromise in the metal or anything else. Just wondering if other engines have this too from the factory? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The head should be done mid week. He’s shaving it about .005 he said to clear the corrosion areas. I’m thinking the total off stock will be .010 to .012. Looks like it was resurfaced before. I also got Genuine Nissan valve stem seals and need to drop them off at the shop. I didn’t buy new valve springs, not sure if you really need new ones. Nissan Bearings, front and rear Seals came in this week . Goal is paint and install the crank tomorrow and Monday. I think you might be right on the color. GM Blue looks close too. See pic below. GM Blue in the right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Engine Block is ready for paint. I bought the POR-15 Degreaser and Metal Prep. Worked really good. The block is ready for prime and paint in the morning. Wanted to let it completely dry over night. While cleaning and taping off I noticed an area on the block that almost looks like someone cut something off or filled a hole. See first couple pics. There is nothing on the inside of the block there that shows anything done. Looks like someone grinders the outdoes a bit. This is in the area where the oil screen goes. I also painted a metal bucket to test out the engine colors. You’ll see Chrysler Blue on the Left and Old Ford Blue in the Right. I also have GM Blue which I test on the bucket tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have options other than this car. All these are for sale in Ca. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/d/atascadero-1971-datsun-240z/7002914024.html https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/tujunga-1975-datsun-280z-280-clean/7003377398.html https://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/d/fresno-price-reduced-z-two-owner-rust/6998401396.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nissan, has really been struggling for sometime in my opinion. It all started I think when they merged with Renault in 99’. They let sales supersede quality and the brand has taken a hit for it. The Nissan trucks used to be great....now they’re total garbage (Why but a Frontier when a Tacoma is far superior) . They make some of crappiest transmissions next to Chrysler/Fiat who’s really suck. Nissan has been eclipsed by all the major Japanese brands except Mitsubishi which sucks too now and go figure they are now a part of the Nissan-Renault Alliance as of 2017. I wouldn’t buy a Nissan today as there are much better cars for the money. Sad to say because I love the Z cars, and the old trucks. The current Z are way long in the tooth for an update. Nissan has some leadership issues. They need to reinvent themselves and soon!. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with the crowd’s sentiment. You live in California? The Mecca for rust free Zs? I found mine in Mississippi (previous CA car). It was 3k (1977). Totally rust free. There might be some rust I haven’t see yet but all the typically areas are clean. So...with that said get one and either sell this 78 or use it as a parts car. I bet you can find a rust free 280 out there for 5-7k all day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You picked a nice color...way better than what it came with. I’ve been trying to determine what I’ll paint my car. Thinking a full repaint. Not really a fan of my 110 Red. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Color is awesome, what is it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, thanks for the input. I called and talked to the machinist again. I mentioned possibly not resurfacing the head and he didn’t like that idea. There is some electrolysis corrosion on the head face that he thinks should be removed to ensure a proper seal. He wants to remove as little as possible. I asked about rod bolts and he said if they not bent or show any damage they should be fine to reuse. Sounds like getting new bolts had its own set of concerns...jeez!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback and opinions. I tend to agree that finding another head doesn’t mean it will be good. The machinist said this is an easy fix. - Captain: No all the pistons look fine but I’m not done cleaning them either, so that may change. - ensys: I agree there is always a chance to screw it up more. I live in eastern NC. Access to world class machine shop is not an option. You get the good ol boy machinists here. This place build race engines and they guy has been doing it for 15 years. He’s a good ol boy but no stupid. I think Perfection is the enemy of good. In pursuit of perfection in life can make thinks worse. I’m leaning toward not cutting it at all like your suggested. So, another controversial topic is Rod Bolts. People seem very polarized on this topic. Car guys ( not Z guys) that are my friends around me all recommend replacing the rod bolts for piece of mind. There are many on this forum and others that say this is totally unnecessary. My thoughts are leaning towards replacing them. Here’s my rationale. 1. I don’t know the engine history. All I know it’s been cracked open before. 2. It’s about 40 years old 3. Only hurts the wallet to replace these bolts 4. Rod bolts take the brunt of the engine force. Why risk it? Spend $60 for piece of mind vs risking $1500 or more after a rod bolt snaps when I’m driving to Pikes Peak like Dave WM. I’m found a set of ARP for $55. Nissan Stock ones for $46. Anyone know where to find OEM Nissan Valve Stem Seals. Zcardepot wants $62. Seems outrageous! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I got my block and crank from the machine shop today and got to peek at the head to look at the issue it has. Crank was great said said the journals were spot on and consistent across the board. Block looks good, no issues there. As far as the head. It’s been worked before the deck was fine but he wants to resurface to get it prefect. It’s been resurfaced before it appears. Deck measures between 4.249” to 4.250”. I’m told the factory head is 4.255. So he wants to take about another .005” off. Total would be .0010 off of stock. One valve seat is jacked up. See pics below. The one seat is sticking out and there is a gap behind it between head and seat. He doesn’t think all should be changed but there is some corrosion so he is going to clean up the rest and do complete valve job. Total cost for all this will be $300. Any thoughts from the pros out there. Option 2 would be to resource another head and start over but the machinist thinks this head is fine otherwise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk