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So Cliff are you saying I should not have a transmission clearance problem with the MSA 6-1 header (2.5” flange)? Two other concerns with this header I’ve read is that it may interfere with the oil pan heat shield. The other was it hangs really low on the car. I will slightly lower my car but I’m not one of those people that have those car dragging sparks down the road like I’m 19 with stereo blasting rap music rattling my rear hatch. I have what seems like 20 speed bumps in my neighborhood (hate them). I don’t feel like having my header hitting all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, that kind of sucks. I have a Z 5speed and not a ZX tranny. Seems like it might not have that clearance issue but good to know there will be some challenges putting in a header. I read mostly good feedback on that 6-1 header. Probably the route I’m going. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what this flange is for? It’s part of those reinforcing metal bands that attach to the oil pan bolts. Am asking because I’m looking at headers and I’m seeing that it may interfere with the MSA 3-2 headers. I don’t know which headers I’m going to buy 6-1 vs 3-2.....ugh! I realized there are many options. If you have any insights on header choices I’d appreciate opinions as well. In this video this guy had to remove this thing on the oil pan, which is fine but I’d prefer to know what is was intended for before I do it or if I could find a better option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s unfriendly if you are in the room with out a mask I guess. Silly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.corroseal.com This is a great product. Converts rust to an inert madnetite and stops it in its tracks. I’ve used on numerous applications to include my personal vehicle. Take a look at the link. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update: just got my first items back from powder coating. The parts came back perfect. Was $100 to sandblast, prep and powder coat all these items. Time to install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought you had to removed the ballast to get the ZX distributor to work properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you clarify what you mean by the C & B connections? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alll great great info guys just what needed. Thank you. So I got one of mine apart and it’s not as complicated as I anticipated. I’m going to try and clean it all up, maybe get a new vac advance and see what happens. Also, I’m going to exchange the other one I got from the JR for another one they have sitting on a 79. Engine. They have a 30 day policy. The 79 will have a E12 80 module from what I have read. Both of mine here have the E12 92 and I’ve been reading that the side connector on that module will disrupt my timing by 8 deg if not connected. I think there is a work around on that but I haven’t gotten that far on my research. Does anyone know I need to look for when putting this back together. I read the the magnet can go bad. I didn’t know magnets went bad??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AK260, that’s one impressive write up. So if your 280zx distributor was working flawlessly what did you order another one. Did the worm shaft cause problems? It’s a lot of coin for that 123 distributor. Would you say it was worth the $$. I’m sure it’s more reliable. I started tearing one of mine apart because it’s dirty and rusty inside. No sure how it’s gonna pan out. My first time doing this. I get the reliability thing on old cars. The more complicated the mechanics the more can go wrong. Heck I was victim to your homelands diabolical creation the....flew the AV8B Harrier i (a mechanical and maintenance nightmare). Somehow I lived through it. Old cars can be made reliable enough, and having working spares on hand in the trunk is smart. This is what I have 3 EFIs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Madkaw, thanks for the tip. So, looking at old posts about distributors and seems like there are a host of issues especially on these aging components that can’t all be easily sourced. I’m in the mentality that reliability is a priority. I don’t want to be stuck in the side of the road or pulling what little hair I have left out trying to figure out why my engine runs like crap. There is value is paying once and crying once and just being done fighting and alway chasing gremlins. I’ve been reading after your post about these 123 Distributors. Sounds interesting. Question is how well does this work in a stock ECU? Is the juice worth the squeeze on these 123 distributors? Pay $550 for one or $350-400 to go back stock. Or just throw what I have in and “see what happens” I don’t want to end up on the side of the road driving to ZCOn in Nashville, 10 hrs away. This happened when I rebuilt my 1966 VW engine. Went cheap on a few items and while driving from San Jose, Ca to Boston, I broke down three times. Generator fire in Bakersfield was the first failure. Granted it was 1998 and I was poor then so cheap was easy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, got all this. Can I used the ignition modules I have already...can they be tested? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ZH, this is good info so thank you for that. BTW mine is an early 77, (11/76 build) I think it has a ballast resistor. So I can buy a regular 77 distributors and put one of the modules from these ZX ones and I’ll be good. Not sure I’ve got all this figured out. Guy want $200 to do a full rebuild. I just posted another thread on this specific topic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I thought I’d start a new thread about this topic since is only partially related to my rebuild. So I emailed Advanced Distributors about rebuilding one of my ZX distributors. Below is the guy’s response. I’d like you hear what you think about his comments. “Hitachi distributors start at $200, and I can only rebuild them if it hasn't been through another rebuilder. Its common to see Cardone rebuilds from your local auto parts store that will never again work properly - permanently damaged in the cleaning process. The last 9 of 10 280Z distributors here couldn't be rebuilt either because they were damaged by another rebuilder or used WAY beyond the point of needing a rebuild, or were damaged via salt water. I'd be glad to give it a try if these circumstances don't apply? I race a Datsun at the Bonneville salt flats, so they have a special place in my heart. Thanks, Jeff” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the heads up Dave. I’d like to run this engine prior to install. Some much easier to address problems Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I’ve read that the ZX dizzy has a more powerful spark. I read it has the E12-80 ignition "matchbox" circuit integrated negating the need of a ballast resistor? Also I don’t have access to my 280z distributor. The car is still stored at my parents house 3 hours away. I building a house which should be done in mid May. My goal was to have the engine completely ready to install when the car finally moves into its new home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I had a good look at my distributors today. One is from an my 82 ZX engine and the other from an 83 ZX non-turbo out of a JY for $20. They look a bit rusty on the inside and some of the gaps are not even or consistent. I have no idea what the operational condition is of either of them. I was looking online at replacement ones and they run around $147 for an aftermarket brands (Cardone) to $300+ for an OEM. I also read about having them rebuilt. I’m not sure the costs there but companies like Advanced Distributors is recommended but has a long turnaround time (6-12 weeks). What might be the best way to move forward? Anyone have a lot of knowledge on this topic? Is this something I could easily rebuild? See pics below of the twins. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dave, I didn’t seal the actual bolts but I did put sealant on both sides of the gasket on the portion of the cover on (upper left side) per the instruction. I didn’t Ted about actually sealing bolts. Can you clarify? All my bolts are new and I also put a tad of anti-seize on them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Made progress today. Oil pan and oil pump installed. I had a bunch of stuff Powder-coated (intake manifold, thermostat housings and some small brackets and bits and pieces). They should be here in a few days. I’ve also adjusted all the intake valves to the cold setting. I’ll do the exhaust tomorrow. I also have two ZX distributors that I’m going to clean up and check out (I think I found a write-up for rebuilding those). After some close inspection I’ll make the determination but they need to clean up for sure.

ZH, good idea in sending an extra one. I get your point on the business man thing but I think I can sense a the difference between a guy trying to take my $$ and a guy who provides a valued service to feed his family. Its like that book “Blink” the first 15 second meeting a person gives you a ton of information about them. He’s a legit guy with a passion for injectors....there all sorts of people with odd passions....all the regulars on this forum are excluded. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the injector advice. I decided to call Motor Man and got in touch with the owner named Howard. Super nice guy and very knowledgeable. He has $25,000 worth of equipment dedicated to injector cleaning and refurbishment. He spend almost 15 mins on the phone with me talking about what they do the process and general injector information. He does a series of tests on the injectors that include, leak checks, resistance, coil check, and flow rates. He tests individual flow rate and compares to the entire lot to see if there is one over or under performing. He replaces the small filter in each injector, new o-rings and also sand blast to remover corrosion and puta them in a ultra Sonics bath for about an hour and then puts a clear protective coating on them. He said the parts for top feed injectors alone are $5 each and will be as such will be raising prices soon as $14.99 each is not economically viable anymore. Probably increasing to $20 soon. He also lubricates the internals before shipping for people who may store them for months prior to install. I’m going to give this guy a chance and report back to you all what they look like coming back. He has a 100% satisfaction guarantee and provides an individual report of each injectors performance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are pretty nice plugs. I went to several places including Fastenal and nobody had anything other than a typical bolt. So they do look like a pan plug and have a flat flange base with a rubber o-ring. They were like $2.50 each. CO if you need some let me know and I’ll grab them for you. I need to reduce my beer tax I have going with you so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just confirmed this week that the temp sensor is a M16 x1.5. I went to specialty bolt shop to buy two plugs for my housing since it from a ZX and has extra holes. The guy measured all the holes for me. That’s what he measured for the temp sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, that question has opened a small can of Z worms I see. Here are pics on my injectors that came on this engine from the JY. Status.....unknown, they appear to be original. They look a bit dirty but that’s not a tell tale sign of operational condition I know. They are all identical. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for some feedback on the best way to move forward on my fuel injectors. I have two full extra sets of injectors. I really don’t think it’s necessary to buy new ones so I’m considering having mine reconditioned. Reading some older posts on this forum I’m thinking of sending mine off to Motor Man. See link below for what they do to the injectors. For $14.99 each seems like a worthwhile investment. I’m this far in their build why put unverified injectors in this engine. Anyone have any opinions or recommendations. https://m.motormanfuelinjection.com/page/subpage/recondition-return-service/top-feed-fuel-injector-cleaning.htm Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk