duffymahoney

I have an updated sensor I would sell cheap that I have left over for it. Shoot me a message.

I am going to attempt to move my FPR to the drivers side and use it. That way I am hard lines under the car. I will T the return from 7mm to 5mm and return via the stock 5mm line and the 7mm vapor vent line. Then use the 5/16 to feed the ITBs. Hopefully it works! I bought some 7mm efi fuel hose from belmetric. So that should give me a good amount more flow. Hopefully my push lock fittings work with it. My FPR mount was waiting to fail, i cut a lot of the strength out. So I will need to fabricate another and put it in my stock coil spot. Should end up looking pretty clean and simple.

Ok. So that is a 7mm. Which really means 9/32 hose. But I can’t really find a good 9/32 efi hose. So it would be 1/4. Which isn’t big enough for return. But if I T’d the 1/4 to the 3/16 stock return it should be big enough? It wouldn’t take that much more work. Thoughts?

Man that would be cool. I will look harder. I can’t say I have ever seen another line. I have a series 1.

I don’t think I have an Evap line? I have feed, return and brake lines running to the the rear of the car. I’m trying to only do bolt on mods to my 240z that can be removed. I could remove the smaller fuel line and replace with a larger one. That could be a mod down the road

First major setback. The return stock hardline is too small and is causing pressure to build up. Lowest I can get is 75psi. My plan is reuse the 8mm fill line as my new return then run 3/8 new flexible hose from the pump to the fuel rail. Then 5/16 line from the FPR to the 8mm stock line back to the tank. Then Y the 8mm (5/16) hardline to stock 5mm return and the 10mm tank vent.

Here is the original.Pm I can send you one, that I would rather not share. http://www.tuning4performance.com/documents/Mikuni -44-PHH-SM.pdf

Engine bay is wired Now to hook up the fuel pump, keyed ignition and tach

I sold my tirple Mikunis for a lot a lot of money, I won't come out even, but it will be pretty close. As far as the wife knows, it will be even:) From the videos the noise they ITB is similar, I think the main difference will be the noise that the accelerator pump gives the car. That growl. I would guess that will be gone.

No I will not use a heat shield. I have a ceramic coated header, hopefully it's enough, the engine bay is normally not that hot, I will test and see how the ITB hold up and see how heat soak goes.

This is basically how it will look. I might try some c clamps to clean up the injector wiring.

Thanks guys. I got pretty far but I didn’t finish. Tedious work

Injectors are wired. I can’t tell if that was fun or not. But I’m proud of how it turned out. Matches my coils pretty darn well. Now the easy stuff is left. Hopefully I will get that all done tomorrow.

Injectors are wired. I can’t tell if that was fun or not. But I’m proud of how it turned out. Matches my coils pretty darn well.

This is my plan for the injector positive. Basically a Y splice and crimp. The pulley wire isn’t cut. Just the sheath is removed. Then crimped another wire onto it. Then a dab of soldier. Then heat shrink. Should work perfectly. It’s just going to take a long time!

I think this is how I will run my injector wires. Then y off at every runner. It would take some time. But look really nice.

Stock shifter boot. I used a soldier iron to melt the rubber. It didn’t work very well. Fingers crossed it doesn’t crack.

I got way further on my ITB install. My kick panel mount worked perfectly and I have about 2 spare inches on the wiring harness. I successfully installed it all with zero cutting of my stock harness and zero new holes which I’m pretty happy with. Now the hard part. Making all the shrink wrap and loom look clean.

Well I found a 2nd hole I didn’t know I had. I tested it and I should be able to fit all wiring with zero new holes in the car. So that’s a full efi install with zero holes or Permanent mods! Stoked. 02 sensors go through the shifter hole. Tps, air temp, coolant temp, home signal and injectors through the choke hole. R35 coils, crank trigger, oil pressure, fuel pressure, dual positives and ground will go through the hole below the stereo.

Dampener doctors rebuild my stock Dual v crank pulley (keeping AC) . Then this is a 60-2 trigger from Hoke. I had to lathe off the back slightly. The trigger ring was not made for my pulley. Works awesome. It’s a great kit. I will have it professionally epoxy painted black. They must of rattle canned it.

Oil pressure sensor is in and linkage is all adjusted. I think it’s just time to wire. Which I’m dreading.

Built a passenger kick plate out of aluminum. I will powder coat it to match my stock one (sort of darker matchbox )This ecu location is about the best location I can find.

Parts back from zinc and a new water pump. Also finished the fuel pressure sensor. Billet P clamps work perfectly with the stock fuel rails. Screws right on

I switched to 5/16 push lock and smooth hose and I’m much happier. Then I had some billet hose clamps that I installed.

Thank you! I bought a push lock fitting tool. Which is all you need. Then fittings from anhosefittings.com