w3wilkes

In Utah we have no safety inspection anywhere, emissions are by county. In the counties that are trapped between 2 mountain ranges they do have emissions inspections and it so happens that the trapped counties have the majority of the states population. If you cause an accident due to some safety issue you didn't get fixed it's not pretty. Rust... Yea, we got plenty in northern Utah where they use massive amounts of salt when it snows (plenty of salt beds around the Great Salt Lake). I really don't see safety issues other than cuts if you grab a rust hole.

The last time I got tires I took the wheels off the car and went to the tire store. They did mount and balance (no outside weights), I took them home and put them back on the car. No issues.

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

A possibility of fuel starvation. The end of the return of the fuel rail is restricted so there is some back pressure on the supply side to the carbs. If the lines were reversed that back pressure won't be there to feed the carbs.

All I know about the 60amp internal regulator is I also have it. I think this old thread shows the wiring diagram that is implemented with Dave Irwin's upgrade. 240z alternator upgrade (instructions w/ pictures) - Electrical - Classic Zcar Community

I converted to electric fuel pump in my '71 Z and left the return fuel line in place. I figure this helps keep the fuel cooler because the heated fuel that doesn't get used in the carbs is returned to the tank which is cooler than the engine bay. I figure this allows more cool fuel from the tank to flow to the carbs. Also if it's available in Panama you should run ethanol free gas. The ethanol free I use is 88 octane and the car runs just fine. If you don't have ethanol free you should probably run premium. I do have ceramic coated headers and the heat shield under the carbs and I've seen my temp gauge get up to close to half way between the middle of the gauge and the hot side and didn't vapor lock. The weather here runs in the 90's (Fahrenheit) to 100 in the summer. As you've experienced, heavy traffic with lots of idling will heat these cars up!

Over on hybridz there's a thread of an N42 with round ports and the bung on the plug side of the head. The thread does mention ATK which this engine has a ATK sticker on it. HybridZIdentify this N42 head - round port???Alright L series engine gurus - need help. identify this head! Its a N42 head, but it has external oil squirters for cam and ROUND ports! And one bracket on the side that is not common on L series...

I don't understand what's weird about the exhaust ports? I thought they went round with the 280Z where earlier cars had rectangular exhaust ports.

I know you had a heat problem when in Panama. Did you also have that problem after moving to Europe? Maybe just a lower temp thermostat rather than no thermostat should at least get your engine to warm up a little quicker. On the PCV and thermostat, both should be readily available at any auto parts store. Both thermostat and PCV are very easy to replace.

Here's the early slave with spring tab. Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - Clutch Slave Cylinder, 70-72 240Z

And a perfect spot to put it. After I did the alternator upgrade I used that spot for my headlight relays. The location ads to a "stock look".

Sweet!

I guess you really don't see these with the dash in. I'd worry if I were doing a period correct restore but if I was making the car "my car", who cares!

So does it really hurt anything to run a little lean at cruise? I would presume better airflow for cooling so overheating shouldn't be a problem and I would guess you would also be seeing better cruising mileage if you're a little lean. Probably something way wrong with this line of thinking.

Possibly from a '73 240Z when they changed the mounting to give it "slight" crash resistance.

@Patcon And back to the grommets... I don't think the early 240's had that grommet you pictured. I think it was just a chrome button "surround" like a washer with the plastic switch poking through. Pictures of the switch. https://joeyzdatsun.com/products/datsun-240z-2-wire-door-open-light-switch

MSA Has "left door switches"?? For the early cars I don't understand what the difference would be between left and right? The door opens, the dome light turns on, just completes a circuit to ground, right?

@dutchzcarguy MSA sells Koni's and KYB's for the S30. Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - Koni Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - KYB

I thought it's the plastic domes/lenses in the gauges that are green. Didn't think it's the bulbs.

Thanks.

Thanks for finding that in the wiring diagram! Car has always been a manual tranny. Yes, the wire is green. I guess it was a good thing that my car is a MT so that wire was available for me to repurpose! With that wire being in the engine bay I guess the relay to the K.D. solenoid (if present) would be in the engine bay?

Did you use the white QasimLed's bulbs or the green ones?

As in my sig the car is a 1971, built 12/70 HLS30-17486

@HS30-H I found and used this wire for my electric fan controller. The harness had the "blue tape" (visible in the picture) which seems to be the Datsun factory method of identifying wires for some optional use. The wire is 12v switched power when the ignition is in run and had a female bullet connector. Do you know what the Datsun intended use for this was?

Ah, but does the heating make the needle go up... or down?