w3wilkes

Interesting... The RetroSound speakers in the MSA speaker kick panels had no fitment issues at all in my early 71 car.

The 240z front speaker kick panels are also available from MSA. They worked great in my 71 240z. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08c02/50-5358

I did buy the later ones and they worked fine by just changing the bend in the line for the 90 degree inlet. I put a picture of the finished install over in the Wheels, Tires and Brakes thread referenced above.

Got the early wheel cylinders changed over to the later version cylinders just fine. My buddy Dan changed a bend in the brake line and it still runs just fine around the front of the drum back plate. can't imagine paying ~$200 a piece for the early cylinders when the later version can be had for ~$40 a piece and work just fine!

Here's what Motorsport has http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2895

Thanks so much for the reply! The drums are off after a little torch work. When attempting to bleed the left rear I broke off the bleeder stem so I figured I'd be replacing the wheel cylinders. When I saw the price of the 71 vs 73 wheel cylinders and then compared them visually I hoped there was a way to make the swap! The 4X price of the early cylinder is ridiculous.

Posted this over in Wheels, tire and brakes. Need help because I broke the bleeder off.

I need to replace the rear wheel cylinders in my 71 240Z. The cylinders changed in the 72 - 73 time frame. The early wheel cylinders go for almost $200 where the later goes for less than $50. Has anybody used the later model in the early car? Here's a picture of the later model on the left and the early model on the right. The only difference I can see is the part where the bleeder valve stick through the back plate is taller and the soft brake line connection is 90 degrees vs angled in the early model.

Both my 71 and 73 only had 1 speaker. I believe it was far bac left side.

In Utah, all through the greater Salt Lake City area, they use a ton of salt in the winter. It took 20 years for my 1973 240z daily driver to rust to the point it probably was structurally impaired. My current 1971 240z hasn't seen a salted road since I got it in 1991 and very little from the original owner who had it in SoCal for most of its life before 1991.

I know the drill... I have A/C too.

Yes, I just replaced my heater core hoses a couple of weeks ago. More fun than laughing right out loud! Found in another thread that the key is to unscrew the valve from the side of the heater core, undo the little hose from the valve to the core and then completely remove the valve from the hose that goes through the firewall. This gets you "almost" decent access to the hose closest to the firewall. Then went in reverse. Still a pain in the butt. I also replaced that little reducer hose by the block heater hose and ordered a backup, I figure that little piece of hose with the 2 different size ends will be discontinued like some of the fuel tank vent hoses.

Here's what Superbright has to say about the color. I used all bulbs that matched the color of the lens I put it behind and they turned out plenty bright. Read the item "Which Color LEDs Should I Use?" https://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php I've done every bulb on the outside of my 240Z along with the map, dome and glovebox. I put all the info in this thread. I also did the electronic flasher for both emergency flashers and blinkers.

I've done all my bulbs on the outside of my 240Z with LED along with dome, map and glovebox. Here's the post I put the bulb list in; The key to lights behind colored lenses for brightness is to get bulbs that are the same color as the lens you're putting it behind. For Headlights Had to use the anti-flicker harness to get the headlights to fire. With patience you can get the anti-flicker harness to fit in the stock headlight can with the LED H6024 bulb, I did.

I haven't found any stereo install in my Z to be easy! The Retrosound this time or the Sony cassette I put in before. Very cramped behind the console. The Retrosound has a ton of cables - pre-amp outs 4 chans plus sub, 2 aux, 2 USB, microphone, antenna, then there's the 4 speakers if no power amp, switch lead if you have a power amp, both switched and always on power, ground and finally power antenna leads. Doing the rear bracket to brace the unit is a bugger. And lastly having to custom make the faceplate because Retrosound doesn't have 240Z faceplates anymore.

My early 71 (mfg 12/70) has the chain and my 73 had the chain.

Over in Fuel Injection it's mentioned that winter fuel is coming. Where I live we have some stations that sell non-ethanol blended gas that I use almost exclusively. This fuel will store much better than an ethanol blend because it doesn't attract moisture like ethanol and is way less corrosive on fuel system components. I guess this is just a reminder that winter is coming and there are a few months where I live that the 240 probably won't be driven. Do you guys drain the fuel system or fill it full and use a "fuel treatment" for winter storage.

The rest of the story is I had to make my own faceplate. Retrosound said they only ever had the plate that came with my stereo. Michael Robbins is no longer with Retrosound so it seems that the 240 vs 260-280 different faceplate knowledge has been lost at Retrosound. They did send a .pdf of a 240 faceplate, the angles were correct, but the size was a little small. Here's how it worked out.

Thanks, I think I'll put an inertia switch on the MP2T jumper.

Does anybody know off the top of their head if the connector on a 240Z for the electric fuel pump jumper is an MP2TN connector found at http://vintageconnections.com/ShoppingCart.htm If it is I can avoid cutting it off and installing my own connector. EDIT: Probably should have put this in Electrical

Ya now what... I just let them go faster if they want. I will make it as easy as possible for them to pass. This makes it much more safe for me to go 6 over. Sometimes you actually get the enjoyment of passing them because they're pulled over for speeding. I like to call them "Sweepers".

What about hoses? There are some fuel tank vent hoses that are no longer available.

At least with the bulbs I got from my local NAPA store for the tail / brake / front marker they're just fine. Plenty bright and the difference from tail to brake / blinker is every bit as good as the incandescent bulbs were. I had heard that also, but I'm very pleased. Wonder if the complaints were from people that had put white bulbs behind a colored lens? I used the colored bulbs that were the same color as the lens I put it behind. https://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php Read the "Which color LED should I use"

That is correct. These bulbs are basically like a sealed beam bulb (same size as a H6024 sealed beam standard 7" bulb), the actual light source is integrated. It's not like a 7" round housing that you then put your LED bulb in that then sticks out the back another few inches. It's like a standard H6024 sealed beam bulb that fits in the standard headlight bucket (with some patience to fit the anti flicker module in there too). From the lens back is cast aluminum, not plastic, so I don't see them having any warp issues from stress or heat. As you can see from the link there's quite a bit of aluminum surface area on the back of these bulbs for heat dissipation, no fan. I've got them in bog stock headlight buckets. Since I'm heading out of town and the car is currently sitting on blocks while I finish some other stuff that requires underneath access I won't be doing the wall picks for a week or 2, but from the light on the wall about 5 feet in front of the car it appears to have a fairly crisp cut off line.

Yes, stock connectors. Had to use the anti-flicker modules which are stock connectors on both ends or the lights won't fire. The fun part was situating everything in the stock headlight buckets, but I was able to do it. Patience, patience, patience! Nobody else comes even close to the price of these lights! These headlights can be had for the price of the headlight relay alone and then you've eliminated the need for the relay. If they live up to regular LED longevity it should be the last headlights you'll ever put in your car. No, I'm not affiliated. https://www.eaglelites.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015