w3wilkes

My impressions of the 3 above... The white one looks more like it's modeled after the current Corvette rather than the original Z (I think the current (C7) Corvette coupe is a masterpiece, but the convertible doesn't impress me) The brownish orange one seems to follow the same lines as all the other Nissans which doesn't really excite me. The blue one from the angle shown is the most reminiscent of the 240Z lines. If the rear end were more squared up it would be better. Of course these are just my own opinions on the 3 concepts shown

I'll be curious to see how the tail light panels look after being installed with the lights and not having the chrome accent around the tail lights.

Agree on check the hoses. If they sat that long with ethanol laced fuel it could have damaged the lines. there's also some small float bowl filters at the SU carbs that may be clogged with bits of fuel line. Once you get it figured out you may want to switch to ethanol free fuel if it's available in your area. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-2503

Here's where my wife's started when she inherited it in 1993 - sitting in the same place of the picture taken in 2017. Edit: Sorry this got dragged so far OT.

Yea, my wife's got a truck too. It was her Dads, she drove it in high school. Didn't look quite like this then.

I agree with 26thZ. Power brakes and vacuum assist … Big difference, I consider power brakes as brakes that have a belt or electric pump for the braking system, requires power from either the engine or alternator.

Can't say for certain, but I thought the block parts were pretty much the same through 72. https://www.ebay.com/i/152926893027?chn=ps I've not had to open mine up, it works fine. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone on the boards knows for sure and will jump in.

Ken, Sent you a PM. I think you'd need to use google to find glass, it is out there. I think most of the glass is interchangeable from 1970 to 1978 (if anyone knows better, chime in). The biggest difference on the early car is the direction of the hatch window defroster lines. The early cars lines are vertical, not sure when they went horizontal, my guess is 72, my 73 had horizontal defroster lines. Wilkes

@7tooZ From your picture it appears that you've added lights to your footwells??

I'm thinking that because I took the picture in the dark without flash and have the light in the frame it sped up the exposure. 7tooZ doesn't have the light in the frame so the picture got more exposure. I think the light in both our cars is pretty close to the same. I might go take a shot from 7tooZ's camera perspective and I'll bet I get a picture more like what 7tooZ posted.

Here's an interior picture with the LED dome light on and no flash.

@motorman7 Has got some info in his thread starting here;

Hey Ken, I'm just up the street in Layton. Wilkes

In the female connector to the male connector on the switch is there some stray crap that may be hitting the top of the switch giving a small short in the circuit or maybe is the female connector pushed on too far? If you just set the female connector on the male connection of the switch is the light still on dim?

Those 15xxx builds must be early December, my 17486 is also a December 1970 build. Some things had already begun transition to series II, my map light has the hood on it.

Thanks for the quick response. I had heard that Toyota may have painted the inside of some of the Camry oil pans and some oil additives may have caused the paint to soften, peel and clog the screen of the oil pickup.

I've not ever removed a stock oil pan from a 240Z. My question is did Datsun paint the inside of the oil pan or is it just bare metal?

I did all my lights in LED except the dash a year ago and am quite pleased with the outcome. Here's the list of bulbs including the dome light I put in another thread;

I find the interlock definition a little strange for the 72 car, I was not aware that this was done on any 240z. My USA 73 240 manual transmission had seat belt buzzer only. You could start the car in any gear or in neutral without having your seatbelt buckled. The buzzer would go whenever the car was in gear, it would turn off while shifting between gears, but would come right back on once in gear. You could just unplug it from the seat if you wanted, but I decided that I'd just leave it connected and use it to train me to get in the habit of wearing my seat belt. Since the car was my daily driver for about 20 years it's now automatic, get in a car and the first thing I do is put on my seat belt.

Just guessing here, but since the VIN tag is riveted my money says it's part of the dash frame that the old dash is removed from and the new dash is attached to.

WOW! I figured at todays exchange rate it would be more like $340 CDN for both seats foam. So with tax and all else it is probably be close to a wash on the aftermarket race seats. And you would be able to use the covers and seats that you already have.

I got the foam from MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2691 less than $130 US for the foam. Bought some 77 seats so I could have the seat back adjustment that allows the seats to flip forward. I also did the leather from interior innovations with matching shift boot and ebrake boot. I figure with all of that I'm still under the cost of a pair of aftermarket race seats and still has a mostly stock look in my 240

Much like 70's architecture in the US too. I noticed in the floor plan that there's a Porsche in the garage.

I agree with @psdenno. Unless you're going for a pure restore I'd skip the AM radio. I've gone with the RetroSound radio with Bluetooth that looks as close to stock as it gets, no more CD's or cassettes to clutter up the car. I have ~1,200 albums on my phone to choose from.

In the USA generally if your car is over 40 years old you can get a "vintage" registration that allows you to miss on some emissions levels. I would say that even most of our cars would pass the local emissions levels required for their years, like your 432 does.