w3wilkes

Geez!!! I got my leather seat covers from these folks and am quite pleased with the way they turned out. I didn't see these when I got my seat covers, now I have to start saving too! Here's my seat thread;

This looks exactly like what you want.

From the video it looks like you made it above tree line which I think is about 11,700 feet on Pikes Peak. When you walked around at the stop place could you feel the altitude? Being from Florida I would think you'd feel it.

You can also use an inertia switch for electric fuel pump cutoff.

I went with a RetroSound, looks pretty stock, but I can listen to any choice of album off my phone via bluetooth. Beach Boys, Beatles, CSN, Airplane, Big Brother, all the stuff I grew up with.

Super "trick" and very much eye candy! Looks amazing.

Thanks for the 2¢. So my thinking was backwards (not that unusual). The urethane bushing kit will be a little less harsh than the T/C kit. From other reading it sounds like a little less tightening with the urethane bushings will also slightly reduce the harshness of urethane.

My thought on the T/C tension rod kit with the rubber bushings is it would be somewhat less harsh than the urethane tension rod bushing kit. Maybe somewhere between stock and the urethane kit?? Sorry for blaming you, I've now taken ownership of my deeds, so you're off the hook!

My wife says it's your fault. I also pulled the trigger on the Koni's along with bushings, insulators. The old "while I'm in there...". MSA is checking one thing and will call in the AM. After reading through this thread I'm thinking it sounds better than the urethane tension rod bushing kit. Thoughts either way?? This will be something to do this winter.

I think those spacers are to bring the rear of the car up to match the front. The front has bearings where those spacers would be to allow the steering to work.

From what I've seen the real bidding will be in the last half hour / 15 minutes of the auction. I'd hold off to the end before you pull the trigger on bidding.

Don't get me wrong, I also do the phone thing for my orders and you are right on about them being "nice as can be" over the phone. Just wish the website would actually reflect what's really available.

Too bad. MSA needs to do a better job of putting the "Availability" note on items not in stock! @Joseph@TheZStore - This isn't the only item that doesn't show as not available!

Even though Dave no longer supplies the headlight wiring harness kit it is still available from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

Curios to know if you'll do the internally regulated alternator change and delete the mechanical voltage regulator? Along the same lines, are you going to do the headlight relay harness mod? Wilkes

All done... $66,420 final. Holy crap Batman!

It's been 20+ years since I had my bumpers chromed, but the place is still in business and does much chrome work for the hot rod guys. They seem to know what car folks expect. You will want to run a die down the bumper mounting bolts to clean up the threads or you will have trouble tightening the nuts, ask me how I know. https://www.ogdenchrome.com/ They did the bumpers, grill and all other chrome on my wife's truck too.

Only those of us that still use the term "Tin Foil", or I could say "only us old farts".

When you say "horn relay" are you going by a part # on the relay can? Did you trace them? Is there a possibility that a PO put in the relays for a different circuit than the horn, maybe headlights? This could be an early attempt at Dave Irwin's designed headlight relay harness and maybe the relays are now toast.. There is a headlight plug and play harness mod to remove the load of the headlights from the combo switch stalk in the 240Z's. It's available from thezstore https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

I've not had my noise verified, but it's very acceptable to me. I use both a resonator in the tunnel and a muffler at the rear. 2 1/2" pipe all the way, both in and out. I think installation is the key to ground clearance as I have no issues with steep driveways or gutters. Resonator - https://www.magnaflow.com/products/10426-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-round-centercenter-straight-through-performance-muffler Muffler - https://www.magnaflow.com/products/13216-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-x-9-oval-centeroffset-xl-multi-chamber-performance-muffler Pictures;

Darn it! At first I thought we were going to hear it "sucking". Sure looks like it's a nice and smooth action. Super nice work!

I think it looks fantastic! The red "highlights" are a great splash of color in there too. South of you down here in Utah where me and my 240Z hang with the local hot rodders they have a saying... "If the part don't go, chrome it."

On a carb'd car the air is dumped into the back plate of the air cleaner so the air going into the carb from both the valve cover and fresh is also "metered" since it is dumped to the air cleaner before going down the throats. And I believe this was done on these cars also to address the oily gases getting recirced for environmental concerns.

on a carburated car isn't the stock design for the valve cover just a hose connected to the back plate of the air cleaner with nothing regulating airflow either in or out of the valve cover? So on a FI car the airflow must be controlled somehow or is it also just attached to the air intake? On a carburated car I can't see that there's really any difference between the stock routing to the back plate of the air filter vs just a little directly attached air filter to the valve cover. Or am I missing something?

A short video from one of the poker card draw sites. I'm at about the 2 minute mark. https://www.facebook.com/JasonFrankensteinBench/videos/2414948871877032/UzpfSTEwMDAwMDg1ODI5MzMzODoyNDE0OTUyNzU1MjA5OTc3/