Ed

I asked a guy who used to converts Z's into drag cars the same question. He had one at his shop that he was working on so the subject came up. Besides stiffening the rear of the car with a roll cage he said that the stock diff on the Z could hold up to some serious HP. He frequently intalled big block's into these cars with the stock rear end. Converting the stock R-180 to a R-200 would provide piece of mind if you don't trust the stock diff. Using a rear end from a camaro would be a "Monster Garage" type job. Not only would you have to shorten the width but attaching it to the body would require some work. Talk to the guys at HybridZ and see what they suggest.

I must agree with Stephen. I started out with the flat tops on my 73. Over time they slowly deteriorated (cold starts were a pain). I worked on them trying to improve there performance but the parts were expensive and hard to obtain (compared to the round tops). But they did work. Once I replaced them with my rebuilt round tops I can honestly say there was no performance gains. Which do I like better? The round tops. Why, because they are easier to work on. Which is why they are more popular. Try adjusting the float on the flat top.

In 73 the emission laws changed and affected the 73 Z. The flat top carbs were designed to meet those emission requirements. You will notice that the flat tops are almost impossible to work on. It's even harder to find parts. Like everyone has told you the round top carbs are a much more desirable carburator. They are easy to work on and are very good. If your flat tops are still working keep them on your car for now. Rebuild the round tops or get them replaced by Ztherapy like Carl suggested. You can't beat there work, anywhere. Once you get the round tops done you can throw those flat tops in the trash.

I remember seeing a member's picture here that had his engine bay done with the soda blasting method, sorry can't remember who. It sounds like a less abrasive media vs. sand or glass bead. I wonder though how many times can you re-use it before it turns to dust? I don't know how well it would work for your suspension parts. I think you would want a more aggressive media to clean those parts with. I've been using aluminum oxide and am happy with the results. You can buy a portable blaster at harbor freight $80 bucks or so. Only problem with getting one is then you need a booth or compartment of some kind to do your parts (I converted an old freezer and used my portable blaster). The body shop I took my car to to get painted HIGHLY recommended to NOT blast the body. They say that the heat generated by the blasting process distorts the metal. Do your homework on this. I for one wish I had bought a proper booth instead of converting the freezer. Live and learn I say.

Welcome to the club. I hate to tell you but most of us here don't do the V-8 thingy. But we're sure glad to help with anything else. To get the most help in your V-8 project try the folks over at hybridz . As to the body kits you will find most of them available through MSA get one of there catalogs. Good luck.

I just replaced the u-joints in my driveshaft and half shafts. I did contemplate paying extra and getting the spicer ones from MSA. BUT I ended up going to Advanced Auto Parts and getting there lifetime replacement U-joints for 13 bucks each. These also came with the grease fitting. I am happy with them. I guess only time will tell if they last. The stock one's lasted 30 years.

There are two bearings in the rear hub, the inside and the outside. The outside bearing is exposed to the brake drum, there is no separate seal. So they use a sealed bearing. A bearing that has a plastic cover protecting it. New sealed bearings have this plastic cover on both sides. Which makes them impossible to lube. The stock bearing is sealed only on the outside. Sorry, it's a little hard to explain but when you take your hub apart you will see what I'm talking about. If no one knows the spec #'s then you might just want to order them from VB. BTW an impact gun will be your best friend when your doing this job. And you will need a bearing puller or a press. Good luck.

I'm mostly insulating against noise. I'd like to be able to have a conversation without having to yell. I'm also going to insulate against heat. You know, the right foot feels like it's on fire after driving for a couple of hours in the hot weather. Maybe that's just my car but the trans tunnel by my right foot was always very hot due to the exhaust running close to it. I'm also going to insulate the inside of the doors to try and get rid of that tin can sound when closing the door. 26th- here is a link. And FYI there product is cheaper on e-bay.

After doing several searches and my homework, I've decided to go with the Brown Bread insulation. I want to do almost the entire interior of the car, from the firewall, floors, doors, trans tunnel, roof, to the rear hatch area. The insulation comes in rolls of 70 sq. ft. I was wondering if anyone knows about how many sq. ft. I will need to accomplish this? Thanks.

Make sure the outer bearing is sealed one. The original bearing is sealed on just one side.

I sounds like you have already "screwed the pooch" by letting the cam chain tensioner loose, live and learn (sorry). I had to remove the sway bar where it mounts to the frame rails because it was in the way of the oil pump bolts. BTW, where are you?

Stephen is right. You don't have to remove that stuff unless you forget to use something to hold the cam chain tensioner in place. If you do forget or it still pops out THEN your screwed. Then you have to remove the radiator, oil pump, dist, sway bar, and front cover. Been there done that :stupid: . One word of advice when you put it back together make sure you have the crank and cam allignment exact. One tooth off and you will be doing it all over. Also make sure you have the distruibutor shaft alligned properly one tooth off on that and you will be pulling the front cover off AGAIN. Been there done that. Some of us just learn the hard way.

Good deal, It's always comforting to know your car will be in good hands.

Using the POR-15 product would be an easy fix for your current rust problem. My only concern would be retaining the structural integrity of the floor pan. I wouldn't want to run over anything knowing that there is only a little bit of filler and paint with paper thin rusted sheet metal protecting my feet. If it was me (look in my gallery) I would cut out all the rusted metal weather it's in patches or the entire pan and replace it with new sheet metal. It's a pretty easy fix since you have access to both sides of the pannel. Once welded in place then use the POR-15 product and protect your new steel floor.

Good point Sean, same thing happened to me. I also thought it was the valvetrain.

First, have you tried adjusting the valves? Usually an adjustment will clear things up. While your doing that inspect the condition of the lash pads, rocker arms and the cam lobes. Any unusual or excessive wear would indicate a cause to your valvetrain clatter. If the adjustment doesn't clear things up then I would look into replacing parts. BTW do you know how many miles are on the engine?

Most trucking company's will want to know the weight to give you an estimate (3-400lbs is my ballpark guess). Make a base out of some 2X4's so it won't tip over. Wrapping it in seran or other plastic wrap is a good idea. Building a crate would be best, especially to prevent damaging the carbs. Find a trucking company close to your house this way you can drop it off. I'd say 90% of them will transport nationwide. Consolidated Freightways, Yellow, ABF are just a few that come to mind.

The guys over at Ztherapy took care of me. Thanks Guys!

Jerrod, listen to Jason. He's a pro at this by now . jk

Those guys at Z-Whizz took care of me when I was having problems. When I had first put the round tops on my 73 they let me watch and learn as they fine tuned the carbs. I learned more in 20 minutes than I would have in a long time. Good guys!

Not sure if this is what your looking for but the 81 that donated many parts to my 73 had a gear reduction starter. My 73 was not original so I don't know.

I remember trying to set mine at about 550 like the decal under the hood suggested but it would stall. Especially when I would run the A/C. I think it idled best around 800. This was over a year ago so my memory is a little fuzzy.

Ahhh yes, the old stripped screw deal. Some of these screws were a combination 10mm hex head with the phillips others were just the phillips head. Sounds like you have just the phillips. Take a 1/4" or 3/8" drill bit and drill in the center of the screw. Becarful you only want to remove the head of the screw. Once the head comes off and you get the rest of the door disassembled you will be able to remove the rest of the screw with a either a pair of vice grips or pliers. Make sure when you buy a replacement that it's metric. I think it's a 6X1.00.

Thanks Gary, I figured Ztherapy might have them. I'll give them a jingle. BTW, not cold, cold yet, just chilly. It's been in the 60's. Gonna go visit S.Cal next month to warm up. :classic: