Ed

I've been polishing my valve cover for the past few days. And I've noticed that the inside of the cover has a "sealant" around the baffle plate. This "sealant" is also around the vent tube on the outside of the cover. (I'll take pictures if anyone doesn't have a clue as to what I'm talking about.) This "sealant" is cracking and falling off. Does anyone know of any alternative for this or has replaced this with an alternative material that works?

Do a lot of research before you buy this. Use the search and try any and all configurations, 4 bbl, arizona intake, single carb, holley and so on. I've been here for a few years and have not heard anything good about the 4 bbl conversion. Do your homework first! $.02

Greetings to you too! Sounds like a pretty sweet find. Is the 260 ready to re-assemble? Most parts from the 70-78 are interchangeable. There are a few differences here and there. To keep it a 260 you will have to retain some of the original parts. Other wise you will have a 280 stuffed into a 260. If you don't have one yet get a parts catalog from MSA or Victoria British you could look up a part in question and see if there is a different part for that year. Take all the parts from the 260 even if you don't expect to use it. Better to have and not need than to need and not have. Good luck on your project and don't get discouraged if it takes longer than you think.

I went to a constructions site where they were building homes. Asked if I could have the wood scraps. I accumulated enough 2X4's and 2X6's that I made platforms for the jack stands and the jack. I would jack up the rear with the jack put in the jack stands. Then put some 2X6's down under the jack and jack up the car again. Raise the jack stands with the 2X4's. Then I'd do the front. You probably get my drift by now. You can jack your car up to as high as you want.

Where have you been?

You could order the replacement seat cover from MSA then take those to an upholstery shop along with some pictures of what the original seat is supposed to look like (look in our gallery).

Pictures, we need pictures! :classic:

Where do these hoses keep coming from? Someone must have a secret stash somewhere.

Here is a solution: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10657&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 (just kidding) :classic:

My guess would be that your Ford was originally designed to run with a single carb in the downdraft configuration. The Datsun was not. It was designed with twin sidedraft carbs. If you do a search you will find that not many people have had good luck with them on thier Datsun. Loss of power is the most common complaint. $.02

Oh yea, I'm talking seats, center console, E-brake, shifter, padding, floor mats, everything. It would look like someone cut it out of a car and put it in the living room. Ofcourse it would have cup holders and a tv remote in the console. And some other modifications like a frame with sliders or casters so you can move it around. It's all just part of my dream, along with a warehouse full of Zed's.

I'd like to dress that up and put it in my living room. :classic:

Jason, Unless someone has one already laying around I can pull one off my parts car for you. Let me know if you can't get one from someone else.

Jim, Is it a little black pushbutton switch with two holes that mounts to the choke handle bracket? And has about 10" of wire. If so I have one that's off my 72 parts car that you can have.

After you install them and get ready to put the nut on you need to pour about 1/4-1/2 cup of 20wt oil (ATF) into the housing. This will help dissipate the heat that the shocks produce and also prevent them from accumulating water which would make your new shocks rust. After you do this make sure you keep the strut in the upright position otherwise they will leak.

San Diego has a club . I'm not sure if one of there members is a member here. But, we do have a few San Diego members.

Hello. She looked good until the engine bay :sick: . Also they say the car has had a thorough restoration...... I don't think so.

Another reason not to use WD-40 on your gun: WD-40 is a penetrating oil. Which in plain english means it's a real thin oil. If used on a gun the oil can work it's way into the primer of the bullet, thus rendering the bullet usless. $ 0.02

Make sure your lines aren't rubbing on any part of the body, the vibration would eventually make a hole in the line.

Sounds like the doubt has already been put in your mind. Do like Will suggested and replace that stuff. Piece of mind will give you 95 mph on that back stretch.

From what I understand the bearing isn't bad until it starts to make noise. Now I'm sure that a bearing will be bad and not make any noise but what I'm saying is, when it starts making noise then you KNOW it's bad. My guess would be that you need to re-adjust the castelation (sp?) nut, again. I would think that the nut was too loose allowing the play in your wheel. Sometimes after an adjustment the wheelbearings will "settle". I know some mechanics will adjust the nut by feel. They will torque it down then loosten by 1/4 turn, then spin the wheel and do the final adjustment by feel.

If you are replacing the rotor try using a B.F.H. (big hammer). They do get stuck pretty good. You could also try heating up the rotor with a torch.

Texasz, could you also put the width of the "dished mag" I have 7" and 4.5" and like Bambi said there were different manufacturers so maybe we could add that info also.

Something else to do before assembly is clean the inside of the hub where the S-pin goes. This area gets forgotten and is usually in pretty bad shape. I took a shotgun bore brush. It's make out of copper so it won't dammage the inside. I attached it to my drill and ran the brush through until it was mirror clean. A trial fit of the S-pin comfirmed that everything was moving freely and smooth. Then at final assembly grease it up and insert. The S-pin will rotate freely allowing the lock pin to fall into position. A couple of taps with a brass hammer to get it to fully seat.

I was cruizing around the net tonight and I had a little fun with N.A.D.A. I don't know what that stands for but they provide a price guide for new and used vehicles. N.A.D.A. FYI you can only do five free queries a day. YEAR......ORIGINAL MSRP........LOW...........AVERAGE..........HIGH 1970...........3526...................5750............9300............16,200 1971...........3596...................5550............9300............18,200 1972...........4106...................5600............9350............18,200 1973...........4695...................5000............7975............15,500 1974...........5364...................3200............5150............10,150 1975...........6359...................3175............5300............10,450 1976...........6669...................3375............5650............10,700 1977...........7429...................3450............5750.............9,000 1978...........8878...................3575............5775.............9,200 All values are in U.S. dollars. Low Retail Value This vehicle would be in mechanically funcional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is". Note: This value does not represent a "parts car". Average Retail Value This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be a older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer". High Retail Value This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does NOT represent a "100 Point" or "#1" vehicle*. * "100 Point" or "#1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility. DISCLAIMER: This is for information purposes only. I'm sure your Zed is worth much more :classic: .