Ed

I think the first place quoted you 10k because they are actually going to do more work. Disassemble and strip, then do the required sheet metal, and paint. Then reassemble. They might also have included rebuilding or re-chroming some of the body parts. ?????? Your friends quote for 3k would be pretty high if the only thing he did was weld in patches over the rust, mask off all the lights, moldings, etc.. then paint around everything. ????? Either way, find out what they are going to do exactly. Do it once and do it right. I guarantee you if you get the Earl Sheib (sp) special you will be paying all that money again in 2-3 years. Don't get in a hurry. Talk to more people, and if you have the room you can do a lot of the prep work yourself.

The radiator your gonna want to keep. Send it to a radiator shop and have it rodded and repaired. A replacement will cost you twice the repair costs. A water pump will cost you around 30-40 bucks new. An electric fan is nice but unnecessary, you can pick up a used clutch type fan at a junk yard cheap. Can't help you with the FI stuff. Maybe another junk yard purchase? Fenders, again junk yard. And last the sun roof. Don't do it. It might leak, not to mention it will look cheap. Access on the inside of the roof is easy. Have it repaired. $.02

Hi, hope I got what you need. The distance between the two bolts that go from the mount to the diff is 90 mm. Distance from the center bolt is 18 mm. And from the mounting hole to the begining of the hump is 50 mm. And from the mounting hole to the end of the hump is 145 mm. If you need anything else let me know and I can go measure.

Looks like a real nice car. If it has been restored like he said then it should be well worth it. Maybe even a bargain. Wondering about the leather seats he mentions. Too bad it's not closer other wise I'd be tempted to go see it with you. Good luck on getting her! Ported engine means he had the intake and exhaust runners on the head cleaned up for more efficient air flow. This is mainly for performance gains.

Sorry to hear that. Too bad your not up here in the Falls, I would recommend my body shop. I know what it feels like to not have your car, I haven't had my car for 3 months. She should be done in 2-3 weeks though. Good luck. FWIW when I was looking for a shop I tried to find a shop that painted classic and custom cars. Not a collision shop.

I bet you a buck you still have the original flat top carburators. My 73 had the exact same problem. The colder it got the longer it took to start. But once it got warmed up it worked like a champ. Unfortunately I can not tell you how to fix it. Don't get discouraged, there are some mechanics out there that know how to work on these carbs. Where? California I think. Sorry. I fixed mine by swapping out the flat top carbs and installing round top carbs from a 71 (probably not what you wanted to hear). Hopefully someone here can give you better advice. If not start looking for some early round top carbs or a mechanic WITH experiance. Don't pay some mechanic to "figure it out".

Usually a bad diff will make a whining, purring, humming kind of noise. To me it sounds like you might have a bad wheel bearing. If you can, have an assistant go for a ride with you. He/she can put their ear down on the shock towers and they should be able to hear if one side is louder than the other. If it is the bearings I would suggest you read up on the procedure before you tackle this laborious task. It's not hard, but I guarantee that if you go to pull the spindle pins your going to ask yourself "what did I get myself into". On second thought you might as well rebuild the entire assembly. (Do it once and do it right.) There are several posts on stubborn spindle pins and a couple of members have spindle pin pullers that I would HIGHLY suggest you use. Let us know what you find and we'll be more than glad to give you advice. There are quite a few of us here that have been there, done that. Good luck

I've got all the under dash vent hoses on my parts car. If you could be a little more specific as to which one you need I can pull it for you. From memory: There is one from the blower to the heater core box thingy, this one is square. Then from the heater core there are five, two lower one's that go to the outside round vents on the dash. Two that go up to the defogger. And one that goes out the front to the center console. Not too sure about this though with out looking. Let me know which one you need. Ed

Anyone have a Mustache bar for a R-200 that will fit my 73' laying around that they want to sell or trade?

Yea I got that from there web site.

Thanks for the advice, I had some Trestor "paint brush cleaner" (the plastic model kit stuff). Put some on a rag and rubbed it on the overspray. Two hours and a lot of elbow grease later the overspray was gone. And it didn't discolor the plastic! Looks great. Then I set it down next to it's sister to compare and I notice that they are identical. Hmmm, are they the same? Can't be. So I compare it to the beat-up ripped one that I was replacing and it's different! I did the wrong one :stupid:

Thanks Carl, that's good advice. I was eyeballing the "kits" sold by VB and the ones sold on e-bay. The price on those is around $200 bucks. The kit from precision is $487.38. Quite a difference. Haven't bought any yet. I remember the complaints about people not being able to close there door without slamming it. Were those inferior seals?

I've seen them gloss black, satin gloss black, flat black etc... Anyone know the original correct color??

Try either MSA or Victoria British . Some gaskets are available through your local auto parts store.

Who is a supplier of sheet rubber? I was on a quest not too long ago to replace the rubber "gasket" that is on the steering column. I found a 6"x6" square at ACE hardware. Not too many hardware stores carry the stuff.

6' 1" here and I don't even have the seat all the way back. Getting in and out is a different story.

I took the fresh air inlet (inside engine bay, between the radiator support and the inner fender) off my parts car because it's in better condition. The only problem is it has some overspray on it from the last paint job. Any suggestions on how to remove the paint without damaging the plastic?

What about the gasket for the license plate lamp?

Most of your own personal tattoo's depending on location can only be enjoyed when viewed in the mirror. Since I will be the one looking at my tattoo the most, why not have it in a way that I can enjoy it. The location I have chosen is the backside of my forearm. Hard to see unless I look in the mirror.

Try using a 2lb hammer. Set your 1/2" ratchet up so that it's in the 10-11 o'clock position. Get a good swing and hit the ratchet at the end. Be careful. Don't miss. If you have a Craftsman 1/2" drive ratchet even better. If it breaks you can replace it for free. This worked for me. I couldn't get an impact in there either because of the radiator support.

Sorry Vicky, seems like I stole your thread.

Perfect. Thanks Chris. Good to see I won't be the first. Except I'm going to do mine mirror image. This way I can enjoy it.

While were at it could someone post a picture of the "Z" logo. I've been trying to find one that isn't partially obstructed. Can't find one in the gallery either. I want to print one and get a tatoo. :classic:

I would think that the guys over at Nissan did there homework when it came to choosing what combination of size intake/exhaust valves works the best (in a stock application). So I would go with large on both sides.

Metric lines with the nuts are available at NAPA.