Ed

Been there done that.

Do you have any aftermarket speakers installed? I've always found the hardest part of installing a new stereo in a car was to find which speaker wires went where. Use a voltmeter and find out which wires give you 12v with the ignition off. And 12v with the ignition on. Then the best way to find out which speaker wires go where is to look at the connection to the speaker (you never know if it was done properly). When all else fails and you don't want to check the speaker the wire with the black strip is supposed to be the (-) one. The solid wire is the (+) one. Another thing I would do in order to not ruin any of the wiring harnesses is to remove the wires from the plug. You can use a really small screw driver and push on the tab that holds the wire in the plug. Then using a small piece of wire splice it all together. Before you start draw a little schematic of the plug and which wire went where, this way you can always put it back together. Tape the schematic to the wires so you won't loose it.

When you say original header do you mean the cast iron header? With any exhaust system, when you install it you should start at the engine and work your way back. Custom exhausts are built like this and when installing a pre-bent system installing from the engine back will save you a lot of headache (or in your case back-ache). For what it's worth your not the only one that has had problems installing an exhaust "kit". If worst comes to worst then take it to a muffler shop where they can make the proper bends in the tube for a better fit.

Left side, drivers correct? I'll have to see what the condition of the shoulder portion is like when the weather breaks (too cold right now to be wrenching out in the snow). And what plastic extension piece are you talking about?

Which side are you looking for?

Isn't there a similar product called "The Tornado " or something?

I tried to give you some buisness.

I've heard people using a Mazda RX-7 electric fuel pump. Not sure what year though. You should be able to find out by doing a search.

If it isn't one thing it's another?! Until you figure out where the gas is coming from exactly it will be difficult to determine a proper course of action. Maybe you just need to rebuild the carbs (gaskets and OEM hose). Carefully take the carb apart to see what's wrong. If you can rebuild it yourself. Then save your money and then get the Z therapy carbs. I did a little homework while I lived there in beautiful San Diego. I had some old SU's with the bushings wornout. I looked around for a machine shop that would replace the bushings and machine a new throttle shaft. I also looked into replacing the bushings with bearings (like the Ztherapy ones). Anyway, to make a long story short, you can't beat the price or quality of the Ztherapy rebuilds. $.02

Are your parting out the entire car? Does it still have the suspension components? Mustache bar for a R-200?

Shows you what I know, :stupid: I was thinking he was talking about the zerk fitting.

I'm not sure but I think the early Z's came with a bolt already in there. Someone must have replaced it with a grease fitting. Anyway you can pick them up at any autoparts store. Just make sure it's metric. If you can't find one let me know and I'll mail you one (for free).

More than likely it's just the bearing. But don't worry they are easy to change. You will need snap ring pliers.

Do you know the answer to this question. Lets say you have a R-180 with 3.54 gears. And you wanted to convert it to a 4.11. Can you just swap out the ring & worm gear and keep everything else?

Not surprised, just learning.

Let me see if I get this right. You had a open R-200. Ordered the LSD. And it will bolt into the same case?

Peter, Thanks for the advice.

Thanks Mike, That was the thread I was looking for.

It's going to depend greatly on how much metal must be replaced. AND who does the work. Worst case senario: Fist size hole, battery tray needs to be removed, old sheetmetal cut out and new metal fabricated (replacements n/a). Then welded, smoothed and painted. I'm guessing but I'd say 20-30 hours @ lets say $60.00 an hour for labor = 1,200 - 1,800 bucks. (cheap) Best case senario: Fist size hole, You remove the battery tray with a spot weld remover or a drill, cut out rusted sheetmetal and fabricate a replacement (buy a panelbeater's bag and teardrop mallet). Weld in new metal, smooth and paint. Drill & bits = $50, Skill saw = $40, sheetmetal = $5, Panelbeater's bag & mallet = $65, Welder = $300, Grinder = $60, Paint & sandpaper = $20. Total = $540 bucks, (cheaper) Satisfaction of having done it yourself and aquired some cool tools = priceless. :classic:

Here you go Carl. The rubber seal gets held in place by the metal ring. It sits on the lower fender portion. Mine is trashed and was hoping to find a replacement.

I've seen some suggestions on how to install the rubber door bumpers that go into the body at the rear end of the doorjamb but I can't find them. Does anyone remember or know any tricks on putting these things in. I've done the soapy water thing but it still won't go.

Jason, Did your new filler tube come with a new rubber seal that goes between the body and the filler tube under the metal ring?

This little box is called a "Throttle control relay" it came only on the 73's and from what I understand it controls the throttle emission stuff that is on the balance tube of a 73. It keeps the throttle open until the engine warms up. If you have removed the emmision stuff from your 73 balance tube then that relay does nothing (besides smoke, ).

Make sure your alternator belt is tight. Put your battery on a charger for a couple of hours and go from there. If it still won't turn over, battery.