Ed

I cleaned, degreased and then used metal ready on mine. Then instead of using POR I used a Rust-Oleum metal finish "chrome or silver" spray paint. I won't know how it will hold up, but for now it looks real good. Touch up's won't be too difficult either.

From an ARP build sheet: Rod Bolt part # 202-6003 Use ARP Moly Assembly Lubricant to lubricate the threads of the bolt and nut face. ARP recommends using the STRETCH METHOD for torquing blots. Follow instructions for using a stretch guage. Stretch bolts to .063 - .067. If you do not have a stretch guage, follow these steps using the ARP Moly Assembly Lube. After the rods are installed into the motor, torque bolts to 40 ft lbs. Loosen the nuts. Torque to 40 ft lbs again. Loosen the nuts and torque to 40 ft lbs a third and final time. ARP (805) 339-2200

Go to your local auto parts store and purchase a service manual for your Zed. In it you will find the answer to many a question. And it's worth it's weight it gold.

.YES, advice is free. 150-200 more or less.

From what I've learned sludge was caused by cheap oils. Especially years ago when the cheap oils didn't have many detergents. It can accumulate anywhere that oil has been. My advice is unless your planning a rebuild soon, leave the engine alone. Change the oil regularly, but don't take anything apart, ie.. oil pan, head, timing cover etc.. If you accidently dislodge a speck of sludge it can clog an oil passage or bind up your oil pump. Thus resulting in catasrophic engine failure.

Before you do anything to the body talk to the shop that is going to paint your car. Most likely they will not recommend you sand blast because it will distort the sheet metal. They might also not want you to use a primer that will not be compatible with the paint that they are using. If your trying to save yourself some cash, just ask your painter what you could do.

I think it would probably matter to the "purists". Those who choose to keep everything original. If it is an original, numbers matching, no modifications 240 of early vin then it would probably make the purists loose sleep. But if it's a later vin and the vehicle already has other modifications I would think that a new professionally (emphasis on the professionally) done paint job (even a different color) would be worth more than the original 30 year old paint. $.02

Dan, Start by keeping a daily log. A notebook. In it write the items you removed on that day and maybe some notes on how they went. This will also help you when you start putting things back together by reversing the order it was taken apart. Pictures speak a thousand words so take plenty of them. Go to Office Max and buy some tags (I got the ones with the little string attached) use these to mark and identify electrical connections. Also buy a couple of boxes of zip lock baggies, assorted sizes. When you remove screws and parts put them in the baggie and write on the bag what the contents went to. In your note book you can also keep a log of places you found rust that will need attention at a later time. Start buying parts now. Like seals, gaskets, and rubber. This way it won't all hit you at one time. How much work are you going to be doing yourself? Bodywork, engine, welding, etc.. If you are planning to do any work on the undercarrage get a rotisserie. Also have a dry place to store the parts you remove. I built a bunch of shelves in my basement. What is your tool situation? Do you have a sandblasting cabinet?

It points to the front.

Another option would be to use MSA's Body kit #50-1504. Or you can get there fiberglass bumpers 50-1751.

My MIG paid for itself also. Fixed my floors and built a rotisserie. Now I'm doing some fabrication on the window mechanisms. I'd like to learn how to TIG. Maybe for my next project.

A Dremmel tool with a cutting disk would work also.

I also enjoy window tint. There is nothing like a little bit of privacy. Personally I wouldn't recommend a highly reflective tint on a solid color. But on colors like silver or other metalics that's a different story. Like CoastguardZ said, ammonia sprayed on tint will dissolve the glue that attaches it to the glass. When I used to work at a tint shop we would spray the glass with ammonia. Cover it with a black trash bag so the ammonia wouldn't drip. Let it sit for an hour or so. Then the old tint would peel off. Final cleaning with a razor would leave things nice and clean. MikeW, even though the quarter windows aren't flat one piece of tint can be applied to it. It does however need a lot of work and a blow dryer. Edit: The drivers side window is open.

If this were the only rust on the body I'd say fix it. But chances are the more you poke around the more rust you will find. Repairing the area in the picture would take you less than a week. Transfering body parts from one car to another is quite a job and will take you some time to accomplish. Make sure your 73 is a lost cause before you start swapping.

Pick up some lock-tite at your local automotive supply store. Some blue will work for you.

Congratulations! Good to see that you finally got a Zed. I see your coming back to NY. Sorry . Maybe we'll see you at the nationals in Aug.