Reptoid Overlords

It needs to be GL4. Redline MT-90 is a favorite among a lot of owners. I have it in my ZX 5 speed. Some have said a certain type of GM Synchromesh is good as well. Not sure the exact type. Perhaps those in the know will chime in.

I can't see the videos on my phone, but if you want more verification on the head gasket you can remove the radiator cap and observe the coolant when applying air to the suspect cyllinders. Bubbles mean head gasket failure, no bubbles mean there probably isn't a head gasket leak as far as coolant passages go. Head gaskets can fail so that there is no coolant problems as well. Sometimes they fail near an oil passage and cause oil leaks. If it's just a compression leak between the two cyllinders though, it might not show up in the radiator in the form of bubbles now that I think about it. What is the compression of cyllinders 2&3?

A quick update and thanks to all who chimed in on this, and it can be put to bed. I've been driving the Z to work and around on the weekends alongside the Tesla's and Subaru's since last post. I have around 1,000 miles since last time I topped up the oil after replacing the rear main(again) and have seen no drop on the dipstick. I added some Lucas fuel octane booster to the tank(92 oct rating base) and have the base timing set to around 12 degrees. All fuel related issues seem to have been corrected(need to modify my vacuum advance). Now that I'm comfortable in that it's a daily drive worthy, rain capable Z with heat and defrost I'll prob keep it in the garage for most of the rest of the winter. Rust only gets worse.

Yeah, thanks for sharing all this stuff. Knowledge is certainly a type of wealth.

Has the head been off and or to a machine shop? I'm wondering if it has been cleaned/rebuilt and reinstalled and run without setting valve lash. There's also the need to check and adjust after 100 miles or something.

Not to throw you off the troubleshooting track that's been laid out, but is there a chance that the guy who worked on it before you removed the injector connectors and cross connected them, or in other words, put the wrong connector(s) on the injectors? Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Now I want Stroopwafles.

I just now remembered that i read somewhere, maybe the Nicoclub S13 forums, that the orientation of the hole on the end of the squirter needs to be pointed up towards the head, like the one in your picture.

http://datnissparts.com/timing-chain-oiler-jet-nissan-ka24e-ka24de-13081-40f00/ This is the one I used a while ago when replacing the timing set on my KA24E(single cam) D21 pickup. I wrapped a shop rag around the existing one and rolled it slowly side to side with some channel locks until it came out. The new one can be lightly tapped back in place. I'm not sure about all the differences with the KA motors, their interchangeability, applications and such. I know there are little differences here and there for Japanese manufactured blocks vs. Mexican Manufactured ones.

I just wanna collect money and be a floozie on YouTube Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Nissan seal is on the left. The Fel Pro is on the right(as you are viewing the picture). The Nissan one is slightly less deep than the Fel Pro one. Got it installed and driven about 15 miles for a test run/ milkshake for the kid. No apparent leaks. She's getting good at not spilling during high speed turns haha.

Your pictures reminded me of when I was trying around with the idea of deleting the front bumper and having someone mold a lower lip. I always thought it would be nice to get rid of the ZX bumpers. Yours is a lot less rusty and beat up than mine. Haha. Looks nice. Ga zo door! Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Are the "P" series harder than the "A" series? https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/clevite-77-trimetal-rod-bearings-cb-966p-l24-l26-l28-l28et-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx/

Looks right. The part number seems to be used on a number of motors. I cross referenced nissanpartsdeal.com and it shows a range of engines that use that seal. So I think I'm good to order it. I appreciate you looking into it for me. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Amazon is showing the part number 1 12279-2B500 is for the RB motors. I'm guessing they are the same? I'll order it through Amazon and get it cheaper and faster than through the dealer, and I don't have to sit in 45 minutes of traffic. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Many thanks! Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Do any of you guys know the part number for the Nissan OEM rear main seal? The dealership parts counter guy shows 2 part numbers with no drawings. He's probably just being lazy. I'd like to just walk in with the correct part number and say "here, order this". I'm either too incompetent to operate the search function or it doesn't work on my phone with Tapatalk. Thanks. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

I'm not entirely out of the weeds. Whatever oil consumption issue I had, wether it be throughout the combustion process, or the PCV system is totally gone. However, today I observed the oil level too low after another few hundred miles. According to the dipstick, after letting the hot engine sit about 30 min, about a half quart is gone. I looked around underneath and discovered a bit of oil seeping down the bottom of the transmission that I hadn't seen until now. So, being the reasonable person without a problem that I am, I got whatever inconvenient equipment that was in the way out, and discovered that the rear main leaks pretty good. It's a Fel-Pro. Looks like I'll be stopping in by the Nissan dealer on the way home from work tomorrow. One thing I didn't do, and it's no one's fault but my own, is install the trans to block brackets that came with the motor. Not sure if they are for structural support, but I'll be installing them this time. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

I don't have anything to offer that hasn't already been stated, but wouldn't a leak down test pinpoint the issue? Perhaps a hiss out of the intake or exhaust.

Seems like I remember pulling the CHTS connector off some time ago for some troubleshooting that I can't remember. It would idle, but as soon as I revved it, it would die. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Who would have thought that the tools to keep a Z's rust habits at Bay could be learned keeping the rust off of the hull of a Navy ship. At least one doesn't have to go over the side or climb down an anchor chain to get a coat of paint on the Z. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

If you are running your stock cam and your stock EFi is in optimal running condition, you can leave it alone. There's a factory service manual, and what folks call an EFI bible that you'll want to look up and download, if possible. You can ditch the stock EFI for this programmable EFi. It's expensive but I imagine it's worth it if yours is toast. https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-injection-retrofit-kit-fast-efi-280z-280zx# I'm running stock fuel injection, and stock cam on my '80ZX with a motor out of an '82(same as yours, flat top pistons) but with the head shaved for high compression. I'm too broke after new suspension/brakes/engine/transmission to spring for the programmable EFI, or I'd totally go that route. Loads of options for modifications. Truthfully, if you can build a small block Chevy, you shouldn't have any trouble with these. The electronics can be troublesome, but it's manageable. Do you have the automatic climate control? I've heard they can be problematic. These cars are very dependable, as long as it's not totally abused and/or rusted out. The main reason I've done any modifications is just for the fun of it. It was a 210.000 mile daily driver before I tore everything apart, and still is even now. Post up some pictures when you get a chance. This site fields the most comprehensive group of Z car enthusiasts anywhere.

I've only messed with ZX's, so someone will have to chime in if I am wrong, as my S30 knowledge base is pretty low. However, on the S130's you must raise the engine a bit to make enough room to get the oil pan out from in between the engine block and crossmember. I've heard of people turning the crank in such a way as to position it so that the gasket can be slid in between the pan and block for installation, without raising the engine and removing the oil pan, but that doesn't seem to make a proper cleaning possible. If you have to hoist the engine, then perhaps now is a good time to replace engine mounts.

Assuming that the cam is stock, what would be an acceptable percent loss on leak down given those vacuum numbers? I'm not arguing your comment, I just really don't know. Most information regarding leak down test results state anything over 20% is bad news, and some say 20% is okay. I have no real history of this motor. It came out of an abandoned car I got with no title. Some PO in it's lifetime, for better or worse, certainly had it apart. It's not entirely out of the realm of possibilities that the cam is not stock, or at least not anymore.. It's got all the OEM markings on it, but I guess it could have been ground. That might explain why when i drove the donor car it seemed so fast. And it might explain why is seems substantially faster than my old stock motor, and the lope at idle. Moreover, it might explain why I'm having issues running rich. Today I installed an oil separator in line with the crankcase PCV system. I found excessive oil in the rubber line from the crankcase tubing to the PCV valve in the manifold. If I'm unknowingly running a cam with longer than stock duration could the valve timing be late, causing high vacuum? I have no baseline from which to judge how a new or newly rebuilt L28 "ought" to run. Anyway, I hope I don't seem argumentative or unappreciative, I always appreciate all the fine help I get here.

I went and got a harbor freight leak down tester. Not sure how accurate they are, but the readings are a consistent 12% approx loss on all 6 cyl. I can hear a faint bit of hissing through the oil filler hole, but can't feel any air through there or the dip stick. Vacuum at hot idle is 22hg. It shoots up to about 25 if you blip the throttle. No strange movements of the needle. Nice and steady. The plug condition has leaned out a bit too. I'll still be keeping an eye on things. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk