240260280

I recognize that bench and tool box. ? Nice bling!

I think you may be on to something. I can think of two possible causes: 1. Resistance in circuit changes current pulse shape (RC rise/fall time increases) 2. Higher current without the resistor saturates the detector circuit and it does not work. I tried more loops in the past with no luck.

Removing ballast gives higher energy spark. It is really only needed for high engine-compression applications. A 280z tach works fine with this upgrade. Keeping the ballast allows older 240z tach to work which saves having to swap it AND allows the 240z owner to get rid of the points distributor. They just forego the high energy spark.

Good news. Just got ZX distributor to work with 240z tach. Ballast was needed.

Jim, Yup, that is the desired early shield. You can see it in the engine FSM printed in 1969 so probably spring/summer of 69 you see this:

Are you related to @kats Brilliant Data! Thanks for posting!!!!

It is nice that you know the car! Do you have any photos of it now?

Feb 2018 fakes:

The edge fingers at the hole are not like any of the original pictures I have but they do closely match the early poor-quality fakes from 2 years ago but they better match Terrapin originals. I think they are real or a very good reproduction. The IKI stamp and Made in Japan require further exploration. I'll check mine in the garage and get back. Circa 1970 version 1 Circa 1970 version 2 2020 2018 fake

I was in Lisbon in 2018 and bought some NOS parts from a nice previous z owner. It was a 1974. He shared these photos:

Nice company:

Buyer beware.

Are they claimed to be original or reproductions? Perhaps ask for a higher resolution photo of this area and we can tell. The photos above are too small to see details.

It looks like your battery is not charging. The 13.9V is a healthy charging voltage so this means your alternator is working correctly. The 12.1 V after the battery has rested means it is weak. It should be 12.6V to 12.8V. Please repeat the test tomorrow morning and take a few measurements while "digging-in" the probe tips from the voltmeter to see if the voltage really is 12.1V on a rested battery.

In North America, all of the 1970 date coode cars had a centre air vent without the vertical supports

some changes make whistling sounds.

Yes...I agree... but we are speaking two different things. I'm refereeing to how people drive. Digression: I plotted top gears' course times using time against HP. I figured any anomalies would bring out the cars with better tracking... it turns out there were several anomalies so I figured I found "great cars".... when I looked closer, it was the pro drivers that made them stand out.

Delta context is "HP or Speed loss due to pollution items".

I agree... just pressing a little harder on the pedal is all that most people have to do to make up the delta.

Back in "the hood".

Thanks a million Alan! That photo was from 2003 when I first got my 280z and 240z were more of a curiosity. It was local and had Fred Flintstone floor but I just recalled it had a fibreglass hood.

@HS30-H Hi Alan, Here is a picture of an old fibreglass hood on an 03-70 240. Does it look like something from Nissan or aftermarket?

A Three on the tree, Stick Shift was Poplar back then. It was a Beech to shift though.

Check battery voltage for completeness. It should be ~ 12.6V in the morning before starting the car and ~ 13.5 to 14.5V at idle.