240260280

2 year old Napa premium $70 brake disks seized to hub of my daughter's Rav4. The "steel" rots and expands between the inside of the rotor and outside of the hub to pinch them onto the hub. I used lots of copper antiseize but to no avail. It is not a chemical bond but physical expansion of the flaking Chinese $^!#. Of the 4 threaded holes in the two rotors used for their removal, 3 stripped and the last actually cracked the rotor! Pure $^!#. Just ordered replacements from Toyota.

First Z I ever drove in my garage.

The photo above is Aug 1971 Dan filled in for McLaren when Bruce died (check out the excellent McLaren documentary on Netflix). He won that CAN-AM race in July 1970...when the first Z raced in Canada.

Sad news.

This was my garage from 2003 to 2016. It was built in 480,000,000 BC. Maguma Group, Halifax formation.

Thanks Charles for the perseverance and excellent documentation. I'll be following in your foot steps shortly. I have a Caswell Kit from 2012 that I will break out soon. I have some nitric acid for the brightening dip.

Blodi, you need a skidoo!

I'll send a couple of Z's over to sell in a couple of years when they turn 50 Nice time to retire the cars and me.

You guys just read it for the Wayne's World pictures

Lots of great photos in the FSM's. There are also printed parts manuals that have high quality drawings.

Hi Kats, For those of us in a hurry or with limited skills.... yes, it is easiest to match the electronic ignition with the correct electronic tach circuit board (3 wire voltage type) or to use the early points ignition with corresponding passive (4 wire induction type).... HOWEVER, this clever member of our board developed a circuit board to allow an early 4 wire points tach to work with electronic ignition modules: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34295-converting-a-four-wire-tacho-current-driven-to-an-electronic-tacho/ Cool racing tachs above! I think racers typically put the sweet spot at 12 o'clock position for quick viewing.

Hi Kats, I restored a 71 240z for a good friend. One of the project goals was performance so I installed a 280zx distributor with the small electronic ignition module on the side. To make this work, I had to change out the 240z tach's internal circuit board with a 280z circuit board, and also run a new wire from the coil negative terminal to the tach. FYI I have a nice 74 260z tach that I just tried to calibrate. Unfortunately my coil simulating signal was not strong enough to drive the tach. Later this winter I'll have another go at seeing if I can get a better driver circuit.

Japanese Parts Manual Classic Z Cars CD Car Parts Manual European Fiche

Mr. Matsuo specified 2 gas struts when designing the Z. Bean counters cut one... along with the rear disc brakes and under bumper grill.

There are alternative pictures in the Fairlady parts manual too. (see the Nissan Parts Catalogue here: http://240260280.com/Docs/index.html) I have a project in the back ground to do this Jim. I'll ring you to discuss. I have lots of space on my 240260280.com website and planned to put drawings there. Here is an old effort before carpartsmanual I did way back in 2004: http://www.240260280.com/legacy/techtips/explodedviews/280z/index.html

Hi Kats, I'm glad to help. #1 I checked the FSM's for North American Z's and the first electronic ignitions started in 1974 with the 260z. The start date would be 08/73. You can see the tach part numbers here: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/meters. I checked the 260z schematic and the input to the tach is taken from the coil -neg terminal so it is voltage type tach. #2 I did not calibrate 280z meters yet but I have some spares and can try to see if I can adjust the sensitivity and scale to respond to the equivalent to 10,000 rpm (input = 500Hz). The 280z unit goes to 8,000 rpm which is driven by 400Hz so there is not a huge input difference.

Flog the horse Enjoy this deeper dive: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40718-tach-bounces-while-shifting/?tab=comments#comment-365973

73 240z Tach Circuit Schematic

Hi Kats, I swapped a 280z tach into a 240z housing in this thread. The 240z signal was picked up through induction at the tach. The 280z signal was a direct voltage. Here is the 280z primary connections.... looks very familiar You may be able to use 280z parts in the 432R tach

yes. If the hiss is coming from where a hose attaches, usually the hose has a leak or it is stretched and not sealing on the nipple.

HLS30-00126 was the first blue on blue that I can see in the Z reg file. HLS30-00302 was the second blue on blue that I can see in the Z reg file so 305 maybe part of a blue batch.

You are at the right web site to help you on your journey!

Some helpful info here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Try this one first: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/overview.html

The hose in your hand links the manifold air pressure to the regulator. It allows the correct fuel pressure to be maintained: When you are idling, the throttle body upstream is closed and there is a huge vacuum in the manifold that trys to suck extra fuel from the injector when it squirts. When you are driving with your foot on the gas pedal, the throttle valve is opened more and the vacuum in the manifold is much reduced and there is less suction trying to pull extra fuel. The FPR is controlled by the manifold vacuum it senses and it reduces the fuel pressure when the manifold vacuum is high and is sucking more fuel out. If you remove the hose or it is old and not sealing then you will hear hissing as it is a vacuum leak to the manifold. The engine is designed not to have these leaks. It is designed so that all air into the engine goes through the throttle valve.