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qz16

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Everything posted by qz16

  1. qz16

    choke lever bracket

    Zkars is a great suggestion - thanks, I will send him a note.
  2. qz16

    choke lever bracket

    Siteunseen - thanks for your response. In your picture there are two different pieces of metal. One is silver and it is a re-enforcement / relocation bracket to take the strain off the console. I have this plate. The other is a yellow plated bracket. I need this bracket as well as the lever. Does art sell both the yellow metal and lever or just the silver relocation bracket? Thank you
  3. Its been a while since I have posted on this site. Hope everyone is doing well. I have been trying to fab a choke cable lever bracket with no success. This is the bracket that mounts under the center console. There is a single slot in my console. There are different brackets, series one does not fit my setup. As I understand it a 1972 – 1973 240z or a 260z choke lever bracket will work. I know this from experience as I have already bought a series one before I found out it would not fit. I would like to either: borrow a bracket so that I can copy it, or buy a bracket at a reasonable price. As always thanks in advance for your assistance. Regards, q
  4. So, I purchased the LEDs via Amazon. Below is the URL for the white LEDs. I would suggest using White LEDs for the illumination of the gauges and the three lamps that light up the climate panel. I believe the MAP and DOME lamps are different animal and I have not found the box with those fixtures so I cannot confirm that for you. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C2SHQAY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So there are seven (7) lamps for the gauge illumination. Three (3) lamps for what I believe is the climate panel. One (1) for the glove box. I do not have footwell lamps, but if you do that would be another Two (2) lamps. The inspection lamp in the engine bay is another (1) lamp. I don’t have seat belt warning, or choke warning lamps, but I believe these are lower wattage, and physically smaller bulbs. Maybe similar to the indicator bulb for the rear defroster. As you know this bulb is part of the switch. This totals to fourteen (14) bulbs that I would White LEDs. There are two (2) for the turn signals – I am using green LEDs – same URL -specify green. There is one (1) for the high beam indicator – I am using Blue - same URL -specify green. There is one (1) for the brake warning lamp – I am using Red - same URL -specify green. If you use all white LEDs you will need 18. If you use the same product that I ordered they come in packages of eight (8). I would recommend that you order enough to have spares as mine took a few weeks to arrive. Also, I can only list the bulb locations that I am aware of, so you may have a few more or less, depending upon your year and how original your car is after 40+ years. With regard to the dimmer, I don't trust the anecdotal value that I came up with. I believe Steve J is correct regarding PWM. If you are still going to use an ordinary rheostat then I would probably find something in the 0-1000 ohm range Hope this helps you. Regards, ron
  5. The website for the LEDs that I bought says that they are dimmable. I connected my dimmer and there was no discernible change. So I measured the dimmer. Mine measures out to be from 2 -11 ohms. It occurred to me that this might be too little resistance for the LEDs. I looked around but I did not have a spare dimmer of any sort. I could not find any of the resistors that I have foolishly saved over the years on the off chance that I would have them when I needed them. Its Sunday, I am trying to be a good citizen and not go out unless it is an absolute necessity. When I was a kid I had some hobby kits where you build things and do experiments. Anyway, here is the cool part (at least in my opinion), if you draw a box, on an ordinary piece of paper, and fill it in with an ordinary pencil you will have created a resistor. If you put an alligator clip with a wire attached to it on each side of the block you can measure the resistance that you just created. If you want less resistance put the clips closer together, more resistance – space the clips further apart. Homemade resistor So W3wilkes – the answer to your question is that the recommended LEDs are dimmable. I suspect that the dimmer in your Z (mine is a 1973 240z) may not work because the resistance in it is too low. But if you get a dimmer in the 0 – 1k ohm range you will be able to dim these LEDs. Here is a comparison: LEDs with no dimmer (speedometer, oil/temp and clock) - Green LED Tach and amp/fuel) White LED LEDs with 458 ohms of dimmer resistance The next image has no dimming, Incandescent lamps in the speedometer, and clock, Green LED in Volt/Temp gauge, and white LEDs in the tach and amp/fuel gauge You must take care in picking the resistance value if you mix incandescent lamps and LEDs. You might be able to get away with using the original dimmer if you have a few incandcent bulbs and some LEDs. I think I will try to go with one or the other. My conclusion is that I prefer either the white LED with a dimmer or the incandescent lamps and a dimmer, I might consider white LEDs in the speedometer and the Tach and incandescents in the 3 gauge set. If you have a question dont hesitate.
  6. So, the white LEDs were to be delivered on 4/21, but they arrived yesterday 4/3. For comparison (image 1) I installed 2 white LEDs in the Tach and I installed 1 white LED in the center gauge (AMP/Fuel). The remainder of the gauges and the speedometer has Green LEDs. Green LEDs populate all gauges in image 2. image: 1 image: 2
  7. Steve, That is a great point. I built a new harness and upgraded all of the wiring, thats what I am testing now. But lowering the fuse values is something that i missed. I installed relays and so I can do that in a couple of spots. I also removed the heater/defroster and AC and replaced it with a vintage air unit, so there is some wiring that is no longer active, as well. My original wiring was kindling. I agree with your suggestion on the 3 gauge set. When the white LEDs arrive I will give them a try. Regards, ron
  8. So some of the LEDs (SteveJs suggestion -thanks) that I ordered, came early, the clear version is (as luck would have it) still not scheduled to arrive until 4/21. I tried the red version (brake Light Failure) and the green version (turn signals) and you have to be patient - there is no abundance of clearance when installing the LED into the socket, but it fits. I then plugged the sockets into the respective holes. They install as they should and you will have no trouble with them bottoming out in the gauge causing the socket to become dislodged due to vibration ...etc. I was going to wait for the clear to finish this portion of the dash effort, but I am not the most patient person and I noticed all of the socket holes have green filters. I ordered 10 green and used two. I need 7 to light the tach, speedometer, and the 3 gauge set. I decided to populate the remaining 7 with the green LEDs. Could not stand not knowing what it would look like so I wired the lights to a battery. Yes the dash is upside down as I am testing the harness. And yes the gauge faces have a fair amount of dust on them but you get the idea. The wiring on this car separated the 3 gauge set lights from the speedometer and the tach with regard to the dimmer. When I was redoing the harness I tied all 7 bulbs to the same ear on the dimmer - so they all dim at the same rate. So these LEDs are a lot brighter than the incandescents. If they are too bright I can dim them down. I don't recall anyone ever claiming that the z gauge incandescent lights were overly bright. Once again, thanks SteveJ - I appreciate the help. regards, ron
  9. Gundee, Thanks for responding. I am sorry to be the bearer of mixed news. The URL that you sent has a 360 deg view button, one of images is a dimension view. This is the url for that dimension view. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/. I have some of these and I believe that they fit in the speedometer and tach (will check if you need me to), but they do not fit in the gauges - oil temp, amp fuel or clock. As you can see the length is 26 mm for this bulb. The length of the bulb listed by SteveJ is 18 mm and I believe it will fit everything. ps 1 (3/23/20) I just checked and the 26 mm does fit in the speedometer and the tach. ps 2 (3/24/20) sorry to do this but I did not want to mislead anyone. I was working on the harness in my dash, and inadvertently put just the slightest amount of tension on one of the bulbs for the speedometer. It came out of its socket. So it turns out that the 26 mm LEDs do in fact hit the green lens inside the speedometer and the tach. I was fooled because one of the bulbs seemed tight enough, but it would be a mistake, in my opinion, to use the 26 mm bulbs anywhere on the dash. So to tie a bow around this the original incandescent length is approximately 20 mm. The alternative that SteveJ has suggested (thanks again) is 18 mm. There is one more critical dimension. There are 2 posts that extend out of the barrel of the bulb. they provide a key/locking scheme to keep the bulb in the socket. I apologize if I am confusing anyone. Anyway, on the suggested alternative there is a collar. That collar is no doubt larger than the socket, so the distance from the post on the barrel to the collar could be, likely is, critical if it is too short then you will not be able to get the bulb in the socket. This dimension is not available, so I cant be certain that the alternative will work. I will update this when I get the bulbs that I ordered. Sorry for the confusion. regards, ron
  10. Thanks Steve and Chuck. I will give them a try and confirm. Unfortunately it will take a while since they will not deliver to me until 4/21. regards, ron
  11. So, I am replacing the dash on a 1973 240z. In the process of putting everything back together I tested the bulbs for the gauges. I believe they are mini bayonet BA9s 1445. This is a 3.4 W incandescent bulb. I think that is a lot of power (watts = volts X current) for so little light. Anyway, I was curious if anyone has a direct LED replacement for the mini 1445. The version that I have fits some of the enclosures eg. the speedometer and tach, but are too tall for the gauges and the clock. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  12. Thanks for getting back. Makes perfect sense. Appreciate the insight as I have not previously installed a windshield. regards, ron
  13. Grannyknot, I am also restoring a '73 240z and I too have begun to re-install my interior. You have been a big help to me in the past. Having said that I was curious why you recommend installing the windshield before installing the dash. Thanks.
  14. okay, so you asked if anyone tried to remove the strip from the card. I tried heat, but chickened out quickly because I was concerned about melting the 45+ year old vinyl. My door cards and vinyl were in very good shape, with the exception of the strip. I really did not want to take a chance on ruining the vinyl. I was going to change the color of my vinyl and decided to go with the SEM spray for the vinyl and the Spaz Stix for the strip. The picture below shows what I was able to achieve. If you are retaining the current color of your vinyl then the problem is a bit easier as you only have to tape the vinyl tight to the strip. One word of advice the chrome spray is pretty good but not great. Your results are improved if the surface is really smooth, so dont sand, there is no paper that is really fine enough, but you do need to remove anything that is loose on the surface of the strip. I am not trying to discourage you from trying to remove the strip. I am concerned about getting the area hot enough to separate the strip from the vinyl without melting the vinyl. Best of luck.
  15. Hardway, I just wanted to thank you for addressing the issue regarding the images. It's a big help. regards, ron
  16. Hardway, Thanks for the effort. Its Christmas, there is no rush. When their site comes up we will have the images. Thanks again and Happy Holidays
  17. I am starting to rebuild my 240z seats and I remember seeing an article by hardway - which is in the knowledge base. There are a number of pictures which prove to be helpful. Unfortunately I did not print out a copy when I looked at it the last time. When I bring the article up where thepictures are supposed to be is a message saying that they are "not available". double click the picture below to go to the article and see the missing images. Can someone explain if there is a temporary problem with the website or is it an issue with my laptop settings...etc. Thanks in advance for your assistance. regards, qz16
  18. I agree removal of the strip is a very bad idea. I am going to prep the card, use the SEM spray system and then finally mask the card and spray the strip with spaz stix spray on chrome. I believe the SEM finish will handle the tape for masking better than the spray chrome. I will insure that everything is fully cured before using any masking tape. I dont think that a tape line will be apparent when the job is complete. Thanks again for the help regards, q
  19. First of all thanks for the responses. Secondly I have some experience with the SEM product line and everything (plastic and vinyl) has been completed ( repairs to plastic and vinyl as well as the color change. The SEM product line is amazing and everything turned out beautiful. The only alternative, albeit destructive, that I can come up with is hope that the vinyl under the strip has not adhered to the card, cut through the vinyl around the plastic strip and gently scrape out the strip still attached to the underlying vinyl. Then you would have to find a chrome strip that is a bit wider than the original to cover up the damage. I believe they sell replacements for this strip but do not know if they are wider than the original. Another alternative is to mask it, but the chrome strip is no longer really chrome looking, it looks almost midnight blue, so rather than mask the strip, mask the card around the strip and use SEM plastic prep on the strip, and then remove the mask and paint the entire card with black SEM color coat. When i decide which route to take I will update this post. Once again thanks for the help.
  20. The car that we are working on is a1973 240z. Door cards are in good shape but I need to clean and covert them from tan to black. There is a chrome strip 3-4 inches below the top of the door card. I am told that this accent is plastic. I do not want to replace the vinyl on the door card but would like to remove and replace the chrome strip. How does one go about removing this strip and not marring or destroying the vinyl. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  21. Well, I primed the door both sides at the same time but it was hung in a weird position with wire. I don't think anything other than coverage is important with regard to primer. I hand block everything before applying color. So, there is primer under the washer. My plan was to spot repair that area when i take it off the rack. I may even wait until after the door is hung. I have not found a way to avoid some nicks and scratches during the assembly stage so touch up is just a part of the process. Aesthetically the washers and the latch will probably hide this defect effectively. But thanks I forgot to mention that issue and the novice painter might not realize that the area would need touch up at some point. Good catch.
  22. Truth be told I am painting my second complete car. So I am just a novice. The first was an mgb. This one is a 73 240z. When I painted the “B” I removed the doors, hood and trunk lid. The first problem was how to paint both sides of something using a 2 stage paint system. I purchased a few paint stands (scissor type) and they are a necessity if you are going to do any paint or body work. After struggling with the stands and painting one side at a time I finally broke down and bought a simple rolling rack. Mine isn’t very expensive (about $90). It is terrific for painting small light parts both sides at once. I never figured out a good way to suspend heavy awkward items like doors. I tried the obvious stuff: hooks through holes … ect. but a door doesn’t hang well unless it is suspended from the right spots and at the right height for painting. It is also preferable to have the part hanging in the same way that it will be mounted on the car. I looked online for tips on how best to hang parts for painting both sides but never found anything particularly insightful. So, in an attempt to help some novice painter out there. All doors have hinges. Hinges on most cars bolt onto the door via a threaded hole. There are usually holes on the opposite side. If the threaded holes are not large enough to hold the weight of the door any hole without threads will do. My first attempt was to use the hinge bolt (8 x 1.25). Simple right. Put the bolt through a few links of chain and screw it into the hinge hole. Use another bolt through a large hole on the other side. Make sure you use large washers to distribute the load on the entire surface of the hole. Pass the bolt from the inside of the door through the hole and a few links of chain and a nut. This works but the chain will inevitably hit the top of the door skin and also be in the way as you paint the inside border that shows after you install the door card. So here what worked well for me. You need longer bolts. So that the chains hang unobstructed vertically, and far enough away from the door to allow you to get paint where you need it. I wanted a single bolt for a bunch of different parts. I needed bolts that were approximately 6 in. long. Could not find anything that long that was threaded all the way. I did find 8 mm threaded rod. It was 36 inches. Cut two (2) six (6) inch pieces. Used a thread file to clean up the ends. For the bolt through the unthreaded hole I put a nut followed by a large washer. Passed the combination through the inside of the door through the hole. Next was another washer and a nut to hold the assembly tight against the door. Next I placed a nut and then a washer the about 6 in. of chain followed by a washer and a final nut. If you are nervous about nuts coming loose on threaded rods you can double nut the ends. On the opposite side (the hinge side) I threaded the rod into the threaded hinge hole. I threaded enough of the rod to have about an inch showing on the inside of the door – this insures that you are using all of the threads to hold the door. Next I threaded a nut down the rod about 1.5 inches, followed by a washer, the chain, another washer and then a final nut. The door can then be hung with the chains vertical and away from the skin. I know this was not brain surgery, but it solved an issue for me, and I hope as a minimum it saves you some time.
  23. qz16

    vintage dashes 280z

    So I am one of the folks that posted about dashes for the 240z. It was not my intention to highjack this thread. My purpose was to gather some information on the credibility of the company. Ivan and Hung both appear to be quite ethical. They would not accept any payment, not even a deposit before they felt really confident that they would be able to fill the order. I was impressed with this behavior. They also appear to be very serious about the quality of their product. This is the type of vendor that we want to find. To be honest I would also have to say that they do not make it easy on their customers or themselves. Not having a website and not communicating clearly is definitely an issue. Bottom line: I think these gentlemen are honest, but may be victims of their own success. My understanding was that they were to receive 280z dashes in the march timeframe, but I have no way to confirm that. This will serve as an update regarding my progress with the 240z dash that I ordered. After being told that one was available I sent them payment. Shortly after that they shipped the product. It is to be delivered next week (3/12/19). I will start a 240z dash thread to document my entire experience from order to installation. I am hopeful that the quality of the dash as well as the relatively reasonable price will justify the wait. Best of luck with your 280z builds.
  24. sorry, I just did not pay sufficient attention when I read your question. You said vent hoses and I totally spaced out. The interior on this project has stalled. I have been waiting for a replacement dashboard from Vintage Dashes since September. Sorry I could not be more helpful. If the dash shows up I will be getting back into this and will make sure that I take photos and post them here. If, and it looks likely that you will finish before me please post your photos. Once again sorry I could not be more helpful. good luck with your project.
  25. Wheee, I am sure that I have the detail photo for whatever you are looking for and if not I can take an additional shot or two. Having said that I am not sure what you are looking for. Below are additional pictures of the cockpit to bulkhead hose routing. Hope this helps but if not let me know what you need and I will snap another shot. So this is a fairly good shot that shows 3 of the 4 hoses. The hoses moving left to right . The first hose (furthest from the firewall is the heater return hose. The next one if the heater entry hose. It has the electric valve (box closest to the Evap Unit). Both heater hoses have EZ coils on them to prevent collapse of the hose. Probably not needed but bend is sharp (not severe) and I just wanted to be on the safe side. The heater hoses go through the firewall behind the evap unit, those bulkhead connections are partially visible in this image. This image is shows the AC bulkhead connections below and to the right of the evap unit. My partially dressed wire harness obstructs the view of the 2nd ac bulkhead connection. This image is from underneath (low in the footwell). Not a lot of extra room. It actually looks worse than it is because of the water valve (the square plastic box under the water hoses). This is really the first view of the 4th hose (the 2nd ac hose). It points down. This is probably the best view of the AC hoses, bulkhead entry/exit in the middle of the image and the goofy routing that I used to get it to the evap. Bottomline: You are correct. There is not a lot of room, but it is certainly enough. It is a pain in the neck to make the connections because of the contortions that you have to go through, kneeling on the ground outside the cockpit etc. I am a little too big to be an easy fit in the footwell. Between the cramps due to the twists of my upper body and the skinned hands I was certainly glad to be done with it. Like I said if you need a different view let me know.
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