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qz16

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Everything posted by qz16

  1. Replacement of the Inner and outer Shift boot When I bought the bucket it did not have an inner or an outer shift boot. Replacing the inner shift boot is fairly obvious. There is a rectangular ring that surrounds the boot and holds it in place. The outer boot is soft vinyl, or leather and it slips over the gear stick. Mistake 1: I installed the center console after completing work on the center console area and everything that is involved with that like the vinyl over the trans. tunnel, choke control, fuse box lid, indicators, radio etc. It turns out to install the outer shif
  2. Patcon - Great question. I am using a button head screw, with an allen head that has a black oxide finish. Above right to left is a 4mm button head, and a 3mm button head I thought the button head with an allen head would be the least conspicuous. As you can see the 3mm screw is quite small. A phillips head would be easier to install/remove, but I thought it would be more noticeable. Unfortunately the 3mm head is too small for the hole in the plastic panel so I am also using a flat washer with a black oxide finish. I would be very interested if you have any other su
  3. I am in the process of installing the bucket’s interior. Often times I find that parts need to installed, removed, adjusted/repaired and then re-installed. A while back I bought plastic rivets for interior. Two sizes are required. The taillight panel requires 8. I believe they are $3.00 each. The interior plastic requires approximately 40. These are larger and come in bags of 10 at approximately $7.00 a bag. I don’t think that they are available at your local hardware store so there is shipping cost and worst of all for me time delay. So, the cost of these plastic rivets is annoyingly
  4. Report post ID: #8 Posted 16 minutes ago (edited) Was this tough to install? Not at all. You will want to clean up the metal handle to your satisfaction. Having done that, It merely slides over the original metal and you tighten a set screw (which you can actually see in the picture, at the base of the handle - mid-image).
  5. My handle crumbled in my hand as I was installing it after repairing the mechanism. I looked high and low and could not find just the plastic handle. For me buying an entire original mechanism did not seem wise as there is no way to judge how long it would last. ABS appears to have a useful life, but I fear we are getting to the point where we are testing the limit. I found the one in the image below, but I forget where I got it. The brand is NRG. I like the way it looks but if you are a purist it will not do.
  6. preface: I am working on the restoration of a 73 240z. A mentor of mine used to say “The enemy of good is better”. I adopted this saying but often times I unfortunately ignore it. Our car “the bucket” has what I believe is its original center console. It has a single slot on the driver’s side for the choke control. At some time in the past the original choke control arm and bracket were replaced with a generic pull out handle and cable mounted where the cigarette lighter would normally be located. It worked well enough with the previous owner’s conversion to a Holey 4 barrel.
  7. sheen, Thanks. You must be correct. I have seen trans switches for z cars that have spade connectors. These must be neutral switches. you have far more experience with zcars than I. I thought most manuals have a contact switch for the clutch, to prevent starting unless the clutch is depressed, but who knew that datsun would be so advanced back in 73. I also read that not all 4 speeds had neutral switches, and as far as i know the 5 speeds did not. As you know the bucket is a 73 with an L28 and a 5 speed so questions about stock are always interesting. thanks, ron
  8. w3wilkes Thanks. I have a '73. Can you help me locate it? Where is the switch and the wires for it? I see that there is a neutral switch on the wiring diagram, but never saw anything physical that i thought might be the actual switch. Thanks in advance for your assistance. regards, ron
  9. I believe that the buzzer and the warning lamp should be extinguished if you close the door AND buckle the driver seat belt, assuming there is no passenger. I do not believe that there is a neutral switch on manual transmissions. Just curious - Is this an automatic transmission? You do not have to reconnect the buzzer to diagnose the problem. The seat belt warning lamp turning off will tell you when the circuit is corrected. First thing that I would check would be both door switches – when the door is closed a plunger mechanically disconnects the lamp and the buz
  10. I am missing the nuts that secure the radio's front facia to the on-off/volume knob and the channel select knob. Does anyone know the size and pitch of these nuts. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  11. Thanks to all of you for your efforts to help. Siteunseen - I have bought parts from zKars in the past, but for some reason he did not come to mind. Guess I am getting old. Anyway it was a great suggestion and I appreciate it - thank you. zKars is great he had exactly what I needed and spared no effort to get it in the mail today. Can't say enough good things about him.
  12. Zkars is a great suggestion - thanks, I will send him a note.
  13. Siteunseen - thanks for your response. In your picture there are two different pieces of metal. One is silver and it is a re-enforcement / relocation bracket to take the strain off the console. I have this plate. The other is a yellow plated bracket. I need this bracket as well as the lever. Does art sell both the yellow metal and lever or just the silver relocation bracket? Thank you
  14. Its been a while since I have posted on this site. Hope everyone is doing well. I have been trying to fab a choke cable lever bracket with no success. This is the bracket that mounts under the center console. There is a single slot in my console. There are different brackets, series one does not fit my setup. As I understand it a 1972 – 1973 240z or a 260z choke lever bracket will work. I know this from experience as I have already bought a series one before I found out it would not fit. I would like to either: borrow a bracket so that I can copy it, or buy a bracket at a reasonab
  15. So, I purchased the LEDs via Amazon. Below is the URL for the white LEDs. I would suggest using White LEDs for the illumination of the gauges and the three lamps that light up the climate panel. I believe the MAP and DOME lamps are different animal and I have not found the box with those fixtures so I cannot confirm that for you. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C2SHQAY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So there are seven (7) lamps for the gauge illumination. Three (3) lamps for what I believe is the climate panel. One (1) for t
  16. The website for the LEDs that I bought says that they are dimmable. I connected my dimmer and there was no discernible change. So I measured the dimmer. Mine measures out to be from 2 -11 ohms. It occurred to me that this might be too little resistance for the LEDs. I looked around but I did not have a spare dimmer of any sort. I could not find any of the resistors that I have foolishly saved over the years on the off chance that I would have them when I needed them. Its Sunday, I am trying to be a good citizen and not go out unless it is an absolute necessity. When I was a kid
  17. So, the white LEDs were to be delivered on 4/21, but they arrived yesterday 4/3. For comparison (image 1) I installed 2 white LEDs in the Tach and I installed 1 white LED in the center gauge (AMP/Fuel). The remainder of the gauges and the speedometer has Green LEDs. Green LEDs populate all gauges in image 2. image: 1 image: 2
  18. Steve, That is a great point. I built a new harness and upgraded all of the wiring, thats what I am testing now. But lowering the fuse values is something that i missed. I installed relays and so I can do that in a couple of spots. I also removed the heater/defroster and AC and replaced it with a vintage air unit, so there is some wiring that is no longer active, as well. My original wiring was kindling. I agree with your suggestion on the 3 gauge set. When the white LEDs arrive I will give them a try. Regards, ron
  19. So some of the LEDs (SteveJs suggestion -thanks) that I ordered, came early, the clear version is (as luck would have it) still not scheduled to arrive until 4/21. I tried the red version (brake Light Failure) and the green version (turn signals) and you have to be patient - there is no abundance of clearance when installing the LED into the socket, but it fits. I then plugged the sockets into the respective holes. They install as they should and you will have no trouble with them bottoming out in the gauge causing the socket to become dislodged due to vibration ...etc. I was going to
  20. Gundee, Thanks for responding. I am sorry to be the bearer of mixed news. The URL that you sent has a 360 deg view button, one of images is a dimension view. This is the url for that dimension view. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/. I have some of these and I believe that they fit in the speedometer and tach (will check if you need me to), but they do not fit in the gauges - oil temp, amp fuel or clock. As you can see the length is 26 mm for this bulb. The length of the bulb listed by SteveJ is 18
  21. Thanks Steve and Chuck. I will give them a try and confirm. Unfortunately it will take a while since they will not deliver to me until 4/21. regards, ron
  22. So, I am replacing the dash on a 1973 240z. In the process of putting everything back together I tested the bulbs for the gauges. I believe they are mini bayonet BA9s 1445. This is a 3.4 W incandescent bulb. I think that is a lot of power (watts = volts X current) for so little light. Anyway, I was curious if anyone has a direct LED replacement for the mini 1445. The version that I have fits some of the enclosures eg. the speedometer and tach, but are too tall for the gauges and the clock. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  23. Thanks for getting back. Makes perfect sense. Appreciate the insight as I have not previously installed a windshield. regards, ron
  24. Grannyknot, I am also restoring a '73 240z and I too have begun to re-install my interior. You have been a big help to me in the past. Having said that I was curious why you recommend installing the windshield before installing the dash. Thanks.
  25. okay, so you asked if anyone tried to remove the strip from the card. I tried heat, but chickened out quickly because I was concerned about melting the 45+ year old vinyl. My door cards and vinyl were in very good shape, with the exception of the strip. I really did not want to take a chance on ruining the vinyl. I was going to change the color of my vinyl and decided to go with the SEM spray for the vinyl and the Spaz Stix for the strip. The picture below shows what I was able to achieve. If you are retaining the current color of your vinyl then the problem is a bit easier as you only h
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