drunkenmaster

Latches too? Catch between door frame and door

Body is very shabby, but the EFI P90 L28 might make worthwhile....cant see the block casting under the intake manifold but Im ASSUMING F54 unless the head has been swapped.

Does anyone know if the tail lights and door latches are identical between the 2?

Thats the frame of mind I am in, with the 2+2 gear I should be able to get my shell at least operational. Sure a 2 seater is better, but a 2 seater with an EFI L28 aint anywhere in sight for $1k or less. Thanks

Well, thats more like what I want to hear. The thing that gets me about my car is that I can never take it anywhere for professional opinion or work

Lexus:

Searching the hard drive, I have photos of both:

Strength is my main concern. The rail seems to have been sectioned, but I have seen other rails be repaired in sections before also. Is a full replacement rail the only acceptable rail repair?

run a search on hybridz.org, there were photos of someone doing this swap, width wise clearance was very tight.

Hmmm......im looking today at a 2+2 with EFI, just trying to work out if it can be carried over. Plus I am not 100% sure on how complete my car is.

So the interior is mostly different, except with the possibility of the dash? I assume everything under the hood will be the same, what about suspension, brakes and fuel lines/tank. Any input would be great, I am having trouble finding a 2seater parts car but there is a sea fo 2+2's Thanks

If you get the car back and under the bonnet and underbody is ok I would be interested in the car :classic: as for the 4.3, i think it would be sitting a bit too high on the tacho freeway driving etc, fuel aint cheap these days :cheeky:

a 4.3 is a little low for an L series I think, a 3.9 would be good but these are pretty rare due to demand I think.

hahaha whats the deal, i am being damned left right and centre over the last 2 days by "datto-zed" and now you datto-zed wasnt happy with the suspension I own and your not happy with me owning my diff Are you looking at getting an LSD from that place? They had more ratios than 4.3 last time I spoke to them.

woohoo

well, i want a good condition F54 block L28E with P90 head and flat top pistons for my car. Unfortunately you guys in the US decided to keep nearly all of them That is my choice and my hunt continues...

L24, L26, L28 = 2.4, 2.6, 2.8 L-series motors. L28 = Electronics fuel injection Im not good with the L24 and L26 but the L28 is the L series motor to have in my opinion if you after a bolt in swap. They come in older N42 blocks or F54 blocks. The F54 are said to be stronger. You then have N42 and P79 and P90 heads, P90 is the turbo head but it can be used for NA and it is regarded as the best flowing. Different motors cam out with different pistons, flat, dished and dome altering compression. You can also fit L24 and L26 heads to the L28 changing compression and characteristics again. Any this is just the L series motor! If you want something modern look at the RB series motor

I was advised that an LSD R200 would probably need a rebuild by now anyhow, making it prohibitively expensive for me at the moment......$750 in top shape would be a bargain, but no way of me knowing.

the rear casing looks more closely matching to the r200 rear photo given above...but the front nose looks like an r180 picture i found....:stupid:

talking about a certain adelaide jap importers are we? Here is another pic, dont know if it will shed any light:

It will vary on state of modification and tune http://www.zcarclub.com.au/dyno_night.htm

As mine is a 260z, i always assumed it had an R200 but a recent R180 to R200 comparison photo i found led me to think mine looks more like a R180. Any experts can resolve this by spot inspection?

maybe 100kw at the wheels with head work, exhaust and cam? I think it will benefit the most from fuel injection which will not be money wasted as it can be used for the rb26dett your planning.

hehe.....my main worry about this rist is that it is in the joint of 3 panels, seems kind of structural to me and worst of all I cant see it all. Should I be able to see the same join from the inside of the car? I cant jump in and look as the car is on stands and I dont want to upset anything. I will take a better photo today, to me it looks worse inside the seam and those rivet holes than the photo reveals.

Its quite good, on thin areas of deadnener it will take it right back to the thin white undercoating (well my car has white, im not sure about others), on thick areas first pass will smear it, second pass will remove most of it and by the third pass you should be seing all white. Holding it a little longer on the same spot will remove the white undercoating and reveal what lies beneath (hopefully shiney metal). The fact that it can remove the black deadener and not the white undercoat is kind of reassuring to me that I beleive I am not thinning out the metal as it seems to only take off the layer at hand. Of course I am almost halfway done and need to replace the wire wheel, it loses itss efficieny as the knots become undone and the wire falls out. Yesterday I was doing the front of the transmission tunnel and it took me an hour or two and I couldnt work out why. When I stopped I saw the wheel was about 1/4 as thick as it used to be, thats why i took the photo of it on my website. When I pick up a new one I will make a comparison shot.