gotham22

Haven’t solved it yet. Having work done on the house and can’t get my car out of the garage. Hoping in a few weeks I can look at it again

TPS passed the multimeter test. Next testing the AFM.

I am going to check the afm and tps next just to rule those out.

Could it still be a pressure issue when there is a load on the engine?

I don’t think there is a correlation just letting everyone know I checked the transmission and then I moved on to the fuel pressure. I am just confused that I can not recreate the issue when not driving

I connected a fuel pressure tester between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. At idle, the pressure reads 32 psi. When I manually move the throttle, it increases to about 38 psi. However, I’m unable to replicate the issue while the car is parked — I can’t drive it out of the garage right now to test it under load. Given that I can’t reproduce the issue when not driving could this point to something other than fuel pressure. My first thought before all of this was that it was a transmission issue. But I took it to a transmission guy who said everything was fine.

I purchased this a few days ago. I'll start there BETOOLL 0-140PSI Fuel Injector Injection Pump Pressure Tester Gauge Kit Car Tools (Master)

Forgive me if this is an obvious question but how could I see it when driving. I want to see what happens when I press the gas quickly.

Not sure if anyone is going to see this as it is so old. I finally got around to working on the car again. I just bought a fuel pressure tester. Where do I connect it? Is it the cold start valve?

Good info thanks. Going to get a gauge and report back to the thread

Thanks. It is stock fuel injection. I will try the suggestions

I own a 1978 280Z that runs well when I press the gas pedal smoothly. However, if I try to accelerate quickly or shift faster while pressing the pedal aggressively, it feels like the fuel flow cuts off. The RPMs remain steady, but the car loses power. If I ease off the pedal, the issue resolves. The car runs fine as long as I’m not too abrupt with the accelerator—it only happens when I press it quickly. Any ideas as to what is going on?

Its the nubbin that makes contact when you use the hi/lo switch.

I was sanding the contact of the high beam switch today and I am such an arse. I dropped the metal piece that goes in the white clicker part. I am so mad, I cant find it in the garage. Anyone know if it is even possible to get one of these? Or does anyone have one? I am so screwed. A replacement switch is like $700.

I found the issue. It was the gauge. When I tried the new gauge the first time it must have not been plugged in fully. Thank you guys for the help. I really appreciate you helping a newbie.

I have not bench tested the gauge yet

Key was in the on position

So I jumped black to yellow and then black to yellow/blue. The gauge did not move. I tried this with two different gauges. I guess thats good news that it is not the gauge or the sending unit. Where should I look next?

I have an issue where I can not get my low beams to work. When I turn the switch to the little dot the parking lights come on. When I turn the switch to the big dot then nothing happens. With the switch in this mode if I turn on the high beams they work. High beams off, no lights. I do not know where/how to start troubleshooting.

Ok so I will test it with the gauge connected in the car. How do I ground the sending unit to the gauge? Sorry for the dumb question. I am not a wiring guy and I don't want to mess anything up.

I did a bunch of searches but I am still unsure how to test the system properly. My fuel gauge is not moving. It had previously worked. So I have a few questions: 1- How can I test the gauge on the bench to make sure it is not an issue with gauge itself? 3-When the wires are disconnected from the fuel sender is there a way to test and see if the gauge moves? 2-Anything else I should know? I attached the two pictures, the wires at the sender and the gauge Thanks in advance for your help.

I will conduct a test in a few days and see if it spins as a first step. Thanks for the quick repsonses

Hey Guys, I replaced my speedometer cable and it worked fine for about two weeks. Now the needle doesn't move. I checked the connection underneath the car and also at the back of the gauge. It looks good. If I remove the cable from the gauge and drive is that a good way to see if it is spinning? I have a dash cap and no easy way to remove the speedo unless I remove the dash which is not what I want to do. So I am looking for an alternate way to test it before I go down that route. I had similar issues with my other gauges and the fix was to take them apart and use fine sandpaper on the internal connections. Could that possibly be an issue here?

Has anyone tried to restore the antenna switch? Assuming you need to drill it open? My down position works but not the up.

I do have some play in the clutch pedal. Seems like I only have one choice now, remove the transmission and check throwout bearing collar