Dave WM

pls keep us posted on the bolt removal process.

reading up I see some suggest filing the bolt flat and then using a center punch and small guide drill bit then workup to larger until just the threads are left or an extractor can work. think I like the others that said to file flat 1st then reinstall the head, and use a series of bushing fitted into the hole in the head as guide bushings for a series of ever increasing dia drill bits, up to a bit that will leave only the threads of the old nut. Then pick out some of the old threads with a sharp awe and then start a tap. I suppose the key to that is to have a good supply of bushings and bits for what ever you may run up against.

Reminds me of my 2501-b. At least I had a schematic. Only thing you can really do is signal trace, that is after the poke and prod. Before I finally go mine worked out I could twist the complete set and it would pop on. then I had it working with a stratigicly placed tooth pick...

Scary stuff, I hope I never have to pull the heads. What do you do about the snapped bolts?

no fire in the sky? I remember when that album came out, had a very high PAF (parent annoy factor).

So I "think" the red tubing was a way to denote anode, in case the brown marking was not enough to denote the cathode.

and this is what makes it a bit confusing on the surface

this how I was thinking it note the cathode side is the positive output.

Ok had to go back and re read up on this some. the anode is technically called the positive side hence the red tubing. I was thinking in power supply circuits where the Positive side of the power supply is the cathode since that is the flow of current. Anyway the band should go to the brown side from what I can see.

not the right value but correct form http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1809688.pdf?_ga=1.21464251.124226254.1473731120

Cant find anything like that. Look at the bottom of the pcb and see if trace one of the lead back to the electro cap, see what polarity its marked.

very odd. Now the big question, is the red lead the cathode or is the brown banded side the cathode? If he can you should get a reading with a diode checker each way and see if you can simulate it with a 1N4001. perhaps the C9 was the smaller electrolytic cap, C14 the big one. I would have thought the brown side would be the cathode marking.

here is where I am now

I am almost there, looking to Blue for a faceplate, and a local to me member for the switch. I just installed the mounts, and the metal face plate that backs up the plastic. I made up a harness adapter that takes the 6 pin 75 plug and adapts to the larger plugs used on the 2501-B. Will be a simple matter to hook up.

That show was responsible for my current purchase. I had a Z 35 yrs ago, sold it, and just seeing it on TV made me want one all over again.

Got em!! Thx Greg, was not even expecting them. They look perfect.

if you are really skilled with 8 tracks you would develop the sharp tug and get it to suck back into the case after one was eaten and pulled out an extra foot from the case. Just smooth out the wrinkles and a sharp tug, watch is spool back in. Ah those were the days of try high fidelity.

need to find the faux gator skin, red velvet lined 8 track storage box now.

should not be that hard, removing the strut mount and the tail light trim cover and bulb are key. I assume there is a small trim pieced around the strut mount that should come off as well, once the lower strut mount is unbolted. The large acron nuts that attach the bumper shocks will need to come off as well. Something is not right you should have very little bending to do, at least that was the way on my 75.

is the thermostat Nissan or aftermarket?

I used some of the permatex I got from MSA on the rubber parts that mount on the door from jam. I was unhappy with the way it stuck on near the window. I revmoved the old cheap glue with some goo gone, cleaned well both the rubber and the painted metal, then did like the direction say, spread thin layer, let dry 10 min for all solvent to evap, and then press firmly. Stuck great. this is slightly different than a permatex video I saw where a second application was use and the parts were quickly assembled. I like the dry method as it seem less likely to make a mess and I want the instant bond. That way I can work around and just use the tool to press it in firmly then not have to worry about it. I realize the removing the hatch completely would make it MUCH easier to apply and do a good job. So what's the deal on removal? the FSM shows shims on the hinge that mounts to the car, so maybe just removing the screws that hold the hatch to the hinge would not upset the alignment? Looks also like I would need at least 3 people to do it safely 2 holding while one loosens.

not sure about it getting warm or not. Generally speaking I would expect not. Glad to hear its working, that auto tuning is a trip.

so your are getting sparks and sounds of relays with the KEY OFF when you connect and disconnect? As far as checking for current draw with key off, no point if you are getting sparks and sounds, that needs to stop and then you can look for MINOR current draw.

My point about the internal short was even if you charged it, that does not mean it will keep the charge even if its completely disconnected.

Oh cool! It was getting late and I had checked out before you got there. If there is still no signal getting thru for it to lock on to, I would suggest signal tracing. Hard to do with no schematic but you could just start a the coil/tuning cap and go from base to collecter of each transistor that seems to be in the path and see where it drops out. You will need to start by tuning in a strong local channel for the tuning tank circuit to pickup.