sblake01

Note that the last page of that document is a credit application.

Yeah, dont' use fix a flat or seal and air. That stuff makes a mess. All you want is something to inflate the tire not repair it. I'm not sure if it's still available but a couple years ago, I purchased an tire inflator from the local Nissan dealer for my 78. It was actually for a 300ZX space saver. I found this old post that may help: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=212713&postcount=11

A blown head gasket would need to be properly dealt with. I wouldn't even think about trying to seal it with some type of additive. What would be the point? You wouldn't be able to drive the car with any kind of peace of mind. And hopefully it is only a blown head gasket. It could be a cracked head or cracked block.

We've led you to that relay before, or tried to, in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32286&highlight=relay

At 59 years old, my need to prove anything to anyone, especially how tough I am, is years behind me. Not saying that I wasn't of that frame of mind when I was in my 20s-30s. Can't give you much input about that now but I do understand it and have experienced it. Here's a couple shots of mine:

Mine is stock and will probably stay that way. It doesn't need to be any faster for me.

Are you possibly running an internally regulated alternator? Like one from a 78 280z/79 and up 280ZX? A 76 was originally externally regulated and that could be your problem.

So far, a skip shift eliminator, a drop in K & N filter, and a lightweight SLP Skid Plate. I've only had it since June 19th.

Here's a direct link to a 78 FSM: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/1978%20280z%20FSM.zip

No signal could also be a relay. If there is a signal and you've got fuel pressure it should run. Let us know what you find when you test it.

If the car is running, they can be cleaned quite effectively on the car with what I mentioned in post #3. However, I doubt if dirty injectors is your problem. Somewhat unlikely that they all would become dirty enough so that none of them would inject. Do you know if you have a signal going to them?

If you're talking about v8eter's method, I wouldn't recomment it. Does that even sound like something you'd want to do to your car?

She's not looking for a fan motor, she already has that. She's looking for the plastic fan or 'squirrel cage' as they are sometimes called.

Are you talking about a heater/AC fan? That's what this is about. By mentioning HP gain, it sounds like you're talking about an engine fan.

A 'little' crude? My method also unclogs them.

Yes, they do. The 78 was the first year to use the gear reduction starter.

I'd go with #1. The only way the distributor could be 180 deg. off would be if the oil pump drive is lined up that way. Seems like a lot of trouble for the PO or whomever would have removed it to have set the wires so it would run that way rather than just put the pump in right. Make sure the engine is a TDC before pulling the pump out to realign it.

Yes, it can.

If nothing has been changed by the PO, and that is suspect based on other things you've said in the past, you would line up the notch on the pulley with the marks on the timing tab. An L series distributor won't go in 180 degrees off since it's keyed off centre. The only way for it to be off the way you describe is the scenario that Chris mentioned.

Step back on it for a second: Do you think the 'New GM' has a chance?

Pressurized cannister connected to the fuel rail with the return blocked off? That's how I used to do my Z and 810.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=256648&postcount=16

I have an ATCO hose crimper.

These kids aren't doing anything to my name, bad or good: they're on their own. Three people in the front, one was a girl (a little macho type showing off perhaps), they were street racing (period).....They were idiots on many levels....I'm just sayin...

I don't think there's any set place where they should be. Obviously, they should be easily accessible for servicing. As and MVAC tech, it's always been my pet peeve to find they they're behind a panel that has to be removed as on a Lincoln LS, or mounted on the compressor is such a way that you have to get under the car, remove the splash pan, etc. (also on a Lincoln LS). Whenever I do a custom system or mod a system, I put the service ports and components where they are easily accessible.

They also fit on and touch the pad itself. The theory is to supress/dampen the harmonics caused by the movement of the pads along the pins during braking.