sblake01

You should notice a difference. For whatever reason you're not getting proper assist. I would just be guessing as to why.

I'll be there but unfortunately I'll have to be a spectator this year. I've attented all 4 of the previous shows but presently do not own a Japanese classic car. Hopefully that will change before next years' show.

Is there a cutoff year in Ohio? In California 1976 and newer have to be tested. When I had my Z and 810, I used a Gunson Gastester Digital which is an exhaust analyser (love that British spelling), to test and adjust mine before each bi annual emissions test. Neither car ever failed during my ownership.

Banjo fitting.

Pretty much when you're going from a 4 speed manual to a 5 speed manual.

Actually, I think I've finally gotten over that but I'm 59 so it takes a while. I have one vehicle and my wife has one vehicle. That's down from the five we've had basically the entire time we've been married.

Apparently it doesn't happen everytime. I had actually tested coils that way myself even on cars with EI until the time I blew the module on my 78 which was about 12 years ago. I haven't done that since then. Why take the chance? The modules Nissan used on the 280Z that mount on the passenger side kick panel are hard to find and expensive when and if you do find one.

The eBay car is a clone as are the other two. Do you think a clone is worth 22k? Especially one that's so highly and personally modified?

Those are all clones in post 10, 12, and 13, and as such, they're all overpriced. But such is the nature of attempting to own one in the US. Remember the story here about the one with the altered vin tags? I'd steer clear of any of them. The clones are overpriced and not always labled as clones by the sellers (terms like "GTR style") and the real ones, if you can find them are prohibitively priced.

Careful there, you can send a spike back to the ignition module and fry it by doing that on a car with electronic ignition. That's a carry over from the days when all cars had points type ignition. (Ask me how I know!)

You went way back for that one!

Well that's JMO. I'm not sure what 'evidence' you'd see if the cat was removed and that section was compeletely replace with pipe. The non Cali cars I've seen have a 'blanking plate' where the floor temp light would be as in Michael's post. It could just be the opposite. That is, somewhere along the line the blanking plate was lost/damaged and it got replaced by a floor temp light which just snaps in the same spot. Does your floor temp light plug into the harness?

I assume that you mean that you light says 'floor temp'. You more or less implied that in you earlier post. As I said in my earlier post, that section in the FSM will explain the function of the floor temp warning system. If you don't have an FSM you can download one here:http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/77_datsun_280z.zip

TomoHawk, what that would indicate to me is that your car is a California car. Having the relay and the light, even though you may not have all of the parts for the system would seem to indicate that. Otherwise it wouldn't make sense for that stuff to be there. Who knows what prior owners have done in the last 31 or so years or whatever portion of that you didn't own the car. Does your car have a catalytic converter?

TomoHawk, have you read pages EC-16 through EC-22 in the FSM? It explains the function of the floor temp warning system. The system was only on California cars from my understanding. Does the lens on the light actually say 'floor temp' or is it a blank as Michael's appears to be?

I believe that "Are does zero offset" = "Are those zero offset?" as a response to Dave's post. (#4)

On a 30 year old car you pretty much can put 'any' catalytic converter on it as the standards really aren't as stringent as they are for newer cars. Generally on a older car, if it fails, it's usually not the cat that causes it, in my experience.

I had a similar problem when I first bought my 78. It turned out to be a bad main EFI relay that would intermittently work and then not. I could tap on it and the car would stall. Replaced it and the problem never surfaced again.

You likely have an L24E from an 810/RWD Maxima. Same EFI system as the 280Z L28E and fairly easy to put in an S30. That engine might have been easier to find 'back in the day'. It's not a bad engine. I put 40000+ miles on one in the 6+ years I owned my 810 with no major problems. I also had a 78 280Z with an L28E. The L28E is more powerful than the L24E. I'm not sure I'd commit to the 'rev higher-more fun' thing that others have mentioned. I think they're comparing an L28 to an earlier L24, not the EFI version. Drive it, enjoy it. Stock vs. stock, the difference would be minimal. On what grounds would you take him to court? Did he promise you that it had an L28?

I believe that's 1 Bravo 6's line. (Rick over in Australia.)

I used my garage compressor to show the buyer that the spare was good without expending the can of air. I never tried that. I had a mini spare from a RWD Maxima in my 810. Never thought of trying it in the Z.:stupid:

I can vouch for Freeze 12 as I used it in both my air conditioned Datsuns for years with no problems. It's much less costly than R12, requires less refrigerant and runs at a lower high side pressure than R12. I'm a licensed HVAC/MVAC tech and have tested a few R12 replacements/alternatives such as R414B (Hotshot), Red Tek 12, Freeze 12, Autofrost as well as R134a. You'll hear pros and cons for Freeze 12 as you would with any R12 alternative. IMO, for Freeze 12, the pros outweigh the cons.

Not even sure that they even make those anymore. I looked for a new one off and on about 10 years ago with no luck and ended up buying a good used one. It was still good when I sold the car in May. I inflated it with my compressor for the new owner just to show him that it still held air.

True but this was originally started by someone with a 78 and I answered accordingly even though the question I answered was posed by someone with a 72. I was just attempting to more or less stay on topic.

The test is pretty simple. This is for a 280Z and might differ from the 240Z. There are three terminals that correspond with the black wire, the yellow wire and the yellow/blue tracer wire. The static resistance between the black and the yellow wire is 10 to 80 ohms. When submerged in fuel (or just carefully move the float to that position), check the resistance between the black and the yellow/blue. Remove it from the fuel and check that same resistance and it should differ from the previous step. If it stays the same, the sender is either defective or the resistance wire coil and needle aren't making good contact and need cleaning.