sblake01

I was being facetious. I know of many other 280Z(X)'s as well as other 10+ year old cars that run like new.

Steve, is that turbo or non-turbo? Only asking because the the thread jack (post 2) EDIT: Just looked it up-that's non-turbo.

Both my 78 280Z and my 79 810 coupe must have been in that 'very rare' catagory then because they both ran how they were designed to run, never failed a smog check, got the advertised gas mileage (maybe even a little better), started, stopped, etc. like they were designed to without any non factory modifications. They were both purchased from the original owner and were well cared for before I got them. Maybe I was just lucky....

You must be really excited! You've posted this in at least four threads.........

Found what? The idle screw?

The non turbo has an adjustment like Nissanman posted. For '82 turbo z' you really need to read the manual as the turbo cars are totally different. The have an idle control circuit the senses the conditions and adjusts the idle accordingly. Much easier for you to read it than to have me try to explain it here. I noticed in one of your other posts that you have a couple of other incorrect notions about the ZX turbo engines (they don't have a cold start valve like the non turbo engines, for instance). Read the manual and you'll find the answers. Here's a link to the 1982 280ZX Factory Service Manual and one to the Turbo Suppliment.

That sounds about right. The agreed value on mine w/Hagerty was $14k, and though I thought my 78 was pretty nice, yours is nicer. I paid $168 per yr. but that also included my 64 L320 Pickup (valued at $8k which I always thought was optomistic but they accepted it). My age probably also plays into the seemingly lower cost.

Oh, please....................

A Fox body convertible isn't really what I think of when I think of a Mustang but then again a 280ZX isn't exactly what comes to mind when I think of a Z.......

Always had one in mine.

If his is a turbo, the ECU wouldn't be at all similar to the one in a 78.

In the almost 7 years since his post, I would think that he's probably found one......long ago. You really need to look at the dates before you respond since many of your posts seem to be answers to posts that are old enough that either a solution has been found or no one really cares any longer................

Like this?

Re read the thread.........

There's the faint scent of 'troll/bot' in this thread.........

I just looked at a ZR1 the other day while getting my wife's car serviced. That thing is a beast! 638 HP, will run in the mid 10s in the 1/4, go 7.20's around the N-ring and still DD it.

The fastest car I've ever been in is probably the 2005 GTO I presently own. The governor kicks in a 158 mph in 5th gear and it actually starts to slow down in 6th due to wind drag. I, however have never driven it that fast but I have had it up to 130 a couple of times in short bursts as well as trapping in the 1/4 mile at 111-116 mph the time we took it to the strip last June

Pretty sure the I Pad has a USB port so anything can be connected to it. It would look just fine. The graphics are realy good on those.

Oh, gotcha.....I guess it would help if I read each post....

I'm not sure why Nissan did that. It makes sense for the FICD magnet valve since it raises the idle when the AC is on but not for the other one.

Seemd to me that that would work though I never tried it. The vacuum source for the mode doors really doesn't need to be 'switched' like the one for the FICD, since the vacuum selector would 'tell' the vacuum what to do. I always thought the vacuum bottle was redundant siince you really only need the mode doors to operate when the engine is running.

They may think that but I haven't paid that little for a new tire for any vehicle I've owned in years.......

Back when I had my 70 or it could have been the 72, someone asked if it was a kit car.

That's Chris's prerogative. Could be vacuum, could be fuel supply. The video really doesn't help (IMO) w/o knowing the fuel pressure/compression, etc.

You'd have problems with you heater since the other magnet valve controls the mode doors which direct the airflow in the various heat/defrost positions.