sblake01

But the initial question was 'where is the ballast resistor in a 280Z' my answer was 'there isn't one.' That is, no ballast resistor. There are five different circuits in the IC ignition unit on the side of the distributor which basically assume the function of the ballast resistor as well as others functions: 1. Spark timing signal circuit, which detects the ignition signal sent from the dist. p/u coil, and amplifies the signal. 2. Lock-preventing circuit, which cuts off the ignition coil primary current when the ignition switch is in the ON and the engine is off. 3. Duty control circuit, which controls the ratio of the ignition coil primary current ON-OFF time periods, in one cycle of ignition operation. 4. Power switching circuit, which makes or breaks the primary circuit current of the coil. 5. Current limiting circuit, which controls the current value so that excessive current will not flow through the power switching circuit. After doing the homework, I conclude that there would be no advantage in using a higher output coil since this system seems to allow a finite amount of current to the distributor.

Well, I don't know the electronic explaination but I do remember noticing that every car I've had with points had one and every car I've had w/o points didn't.

A 280Z has no ballast resistor.

They look great! Better than they did on my car. Maybe they just work better with red than with blue. I spent a lot of hours on those things. I was considering having them coated but then I found the 260/280Z alloys. I'm glad to see that they have found an appreciative home.

My car has the 'dealer installed' a/c rather than the factory installed setup. It doesn't have some of the things shown in your diagram like the solenoids, the vacuum bottle etc. That 'S' tube is just a vacuum hose. The 'thing that pulls on the throttle linkage' (labeled ? in my picture) is the item that sonofzzap and I are questioning. It doesn't seem to act as part of a fast idle control device (F.I.C.D.) at least not on my car.

I have that on my 78 and have never been able to find out what it is! It is left out of the picture in the FSM. It seems to pull against the linkage under vacuum. Like Tomohawk says, Haynes show a picture of the vacum switching valve which my car and yours does not have. The BPT (Back pressure transducer) valve is the large round one to the left of the EGR valve. Mine is hooked up differently than yours in that vacuum comes directly from the manifold. I always thought it was just part of the California emmisions stuff. If anyone finds out what this actually does, let me know!

I live in SoCal where the summer temps reach the 90s-low 100s. I own two EFI Datsuns w/o the injector cooler and have never experienced the heat soak/vapor lock problem.

Check this one out!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Viewitem&item=4519566574

The Nissan Motorsport parts catalog lists the L-SERIES RACE DAMPER as part # 99996-E1060E and the Z EURO DAMPER as 12303-E4100. There is also a third option listed-The Nismo Pulley Set.

Don't know about the wheels but the story is more interesting. I've seen that picture somewhere before. I like the body kit except for the opening in the hood. According to Eric, more info on the car will be posted on his site in the future.

If the ground turns out to be okay, considering the temperature change you might want to look into Vicky's eplaination. What is the CCA rating of your battery? Battery strength does diminish and temperature drops.

Saw this while visiting another Datsun site. I've never seen, heard, or read about one of these. http://home.sprintmail.com/~cathbrown/doug/pickup.html

I didn't think you guys would have any problem finding them. Out here in California, or at least around my area, the are everywhere in the local self service junkyards. There on any ZX, 80-84 Maxima, Z31, etc. with factory aluminum wheels. If you want, I can go get some. They'd be much cheaper than anything you've posted here. Like maybe 10-15 bucks including postage. They usually just include them in the price when buy wheels or just throw them in when you buy other parts. I'd just have to wait for a break in the rain.

Well said, Carl!

©©© Hey, I figured it out! It's alt 0169 not alt 1069!

No, those aren't Maxima alloys. Looks like a period aftermarket wheel. Maxima alloys are much uglier!

There isn't a catagory in the poll for the way I use my Z. I drive it on Wednesday to take my wife to lunch, I take it to an occaisional car show like MSA but I take the others (the 320 or the 810) to the other Datsun shows, or once in a while I drive it to go visiting on the weekends. Never in bad weather.

Hate to say it but those look just like the mats that were in my old 70 521 pickup.

Rear end ratio makes a difference, too.

But you'll also need to set up a way to bypass the compressor when you turn on the blower when you want heat instead of cold.

You need to be sure that the lever moves to full choke. The Weber on my truck starts whenever I need it to. Starting fluid has a way of rattling the bottom end of a cold engine. If you must use that technique, use a small spary bottle with gasoline in it.

It has reached the point where my memory isn't good enough to think back far enough to remember what was before my time. :classic:

Here they are.

I don't know. That's how it has been since I've owned it and I haven't had any problems. I'd check into that but note the bottom line in my signature. I only know of the five you mention, also.

I've go a decent set of 6-spoke Zx wheels I'd let you have cheap.