sblake01

I'm afraid your answer lies somewhere in that statement. When I bought my Z, it had been sitting for 'about four years' according to the PO. The gas tank was so full of crud, that it was a lost cause. I replaced it and the problem (same one that you describe) dissappeared. There are baffles, chambers, nooks and crannys in a fuel injected car's tank. They are virtually impossible to clean out with any kind of chemical, additive, etc. Believe me, I tried! Your tank will either need to be professionally cleaned, or replaced.

Ashamed!!?

The cam is not the problem. You most likely have your oil pump mounted in such a way that the distributor is not in the correct position. This has been discussed here off and on extensively. Do a search and you will find the info.

Or it could just be normal wear on a 30+ year old rotating part.

After leaving the previous post earlier this morning, I got to thinking why not do it now. I've had the parts for over a year so I left the computer and four hours later, I had working a/c! Nothing was wrong with the system itself but one of the plastic levers in the heater/ac control panel was broken and I couldn't close the vent unless I reached under the dash and did it manually. That plus the fact that the switch that turns the compressor on and off was stuck in the on position so I had it disconnected. It was kind of a tedious job since the console and the center dash panels have to be removed in order to replace the control panel and the switch. I relocated the switch from the console to below the guages to the right of the ignition switch. After having no a/c for better than a year it still reaches 40 degrees at the vents! So, now that that's done, I'll see those of you who are going in Long Beach next month.

There must be a way to do it without starting over. Didn't Gary240Z change to Go240Zags without starting over. If anyone knows how that's done, I'd also like to know.

That gives me a little over two weeks to get the a/c controls squared away on my Z!

Your father was evidentally a very astute man.

A lot of the smog stuff has been removed and/or blocked off. Might not be a concern if you're in an area that doesn't require a smog check. But I'm kind of concerned about how it was removed. The valve cover breather is t'd into the auxiliary air valve. The egr valve is gone, the place where the aux air valve should feed into is capped, the bpt valve is gone, which would mean that the termal vacuum valve either has been capped or removed, the vacuum delay valve is gone, etc. I just hope that all works okay.

If you have an FSM, follow the test procedure outlined in it for the fuel pump circuit. There are a few things that can cause the fuel pump not to work. I haven't ever had a fuel pump realay go bad on either car. Not saying that it couldn't but it gets expensive when you start throwing parts at an electrical problem.

When you say 'interlock unit' are you referring to the unit that locks the steering wheel when the key is removed in the 'lock' position? If so, it's part of the ignition switch assembly. It consists of a pin that releases into the steering column when you remove the key with the ingnition in the lock position and disengages when you insert the key in the ignition and turn it. If you remove the ignition switch from the steeering column, unplug the connections, hold it in your hand and operate it with the key, you'll see how it works.

At the end of the song, Roger Waters says "There is no dark side of the moon. As a matter of fact, it's all dark."

I happen to like my wife's stern. One of her better features. I just can't get her to wash my cars. But seriously that is one sweet Z and you really scored in terms of price/contdition. Congrats!

That's all true but I have enough of the important parts, including one each new in box AFM and all the electrical goodies to keep my 280 and the 810 going for as long as I'll probably keep them. I would love to see a 240-280 or even an 810 properly converted over to a VG30DE or even a VQ35DE with all the attending pieces. It would be sweet but then there's that price tag!

I think by 'N/A' he means FI as opposed to turbocharged. I think that MAF and MAP are fine for the engines they ere designed for. But to put that technology on a 30+ year old engine. . . well you won't have the variable valve timing, the direct ignition, individual coil packs, etc. and all of the other goodies that go with the more modern setups. The old EFI system, good or bad, is what it is. The more you change on it, the more a troubleshooting nightmare it becomes. I'm content to live with the AFM etc. on my 1970s vintage cars. JMO.

Those appear to be American's copy of the old 'Centerline' wheels. The Centerline Auto Drag wheel which is very similar to that wheel is available in the correct bolt pattern (4 on 114.3) in 14 or 15 inch and in a couple of different whiths and offsets. Check with Summit Racing.

It didn't take me that long. I divorced in 96 and was married again in 97! My previous wife had very little in common with me and my present (and last!) wife has vitrually as much in common with me as a man and woman can have. I hope that the 'and sooo much more' encompases the things that really matter. The things you mention will make you want to open the door and walk in but they won't make you want to stay in the building for long! I don't know if I would go as far as to say that she loves my Datsuns, but she does have respect for my interests and I do for hers. I don't know if I would go knocking women in general or comparing them to dogs. Regardless of how great dogs can be they aren't interchangable with women. It's just a matter of finding the right one. (Dog or Woman)

Could be for a 280Z. I just measured mine (78) and it's just a shade under 31"

Don't forget about the 810. It's as close to the 240K as we ever got here. It like a strecthed 200B with an L24E under the hood. It's my daily driver and one other member here also has one that I know of. Yes, we did also get the 710 here in the U.S.

If you have a California car, check the altitude sensor. When they act up, they cause a problem similar to what you are describing.

I don't think there is any difference between a 280Z clutch/flywheel and a 280ZX clutch/flyweel other than the 2+2/turbo being larger. (243mm vs 225mm)

Or, maybe not! We're already subjected to enough useless information here (like this poll) as it is!

His response may have been a bit tounge-in-cheek (don't correct people's spelling, we all know what he means), but the point Gary makes is valid. Leave it alone. A high mileage, low compression, and in other words tired engine does not need the sludge cleaned out of it. It will only lead to further problems. The engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced which is what the author of this thread is contemplating anyway. He's just looking for a way to keep it going for a while.

I had forgotten about 'JATCO'. I remember seeing that name somewhere when buying parts for the later 510(A10). Kind of off topic but what I remember is that the late 510 (78-81) was kind of like a '510ZX' when compared to the PL510 (68-73).

IIRC, the early auto trans was built by Borg Warner and the rest were built by Nissan. My ex had a 71 510 with a Borg Warner automatic trans and later had a 80 510 with a 'Nissanmatic' as it was reffered to in the literature.