sblake01

Sounds like she's just trying to recoup her invetment which sounds a bit inflated to me. That car is essentially a hybrid even though it has a Datsun engine (VG30E). But $49,900? I don't know if I would pay that for either of Chris's cars when completed! (Even though they'd be worth it)

The one that MSA sells, although pricey, is one of the better ones around but basically, all you need is a 90 degree elbow tube 2.75" (60mm) in diameter, cut to the right lengths a filter and some type of bracket. Anything to keep from pulling the air from under the hood like the stock 75-77 air box does.

The angle that your intake sits at seems odd. Most of the ones I've seen come out of the boot at a 90 degree angle and go straight across in front of the radiator support with the filter in the center of the car. Also, you muffler should be a center inlet/offset outlet, mounted vertically instead of horizontally. It would fit better.

Actually it takes a special socket. I bought a set of three sockets at a tool show years ago. They are designed to remove oil pressure senders, a/c pressure switches, and items like your switch without damaging them.

I kind of like them too. Are you talking about the 280Z or the Vette. I like Vette's also but I doubt if I would ever own one even though I have reached a stage in life where I could.

What did it turn out to be? Unplugged FI power plug? I knew it had to be simple just that there are so many things to check when you get a 'no start' on a EFI car. Glad you got it fixed.

That is so spot on! I realize that this thread is really about restoration but the 'tweak' this or 'improve' that statement is what I'm talking about. How many times have we heard of a member, especially the newer ones, taking a running vehicle, changing or modifying something, for seemingly no real particularly good reason, and ending up with a non running vehicle. Especially the EFI cars. But J P D, you sound like someone who has more than a general clue about what you are doing.

It was a little rougher when he first got it:

Yeah, that site is kind of slow. I'm over there every now and then. That Maroon 70 1600 used to be mine. I'm surprised that picture is still on the front page. Like I said, it's kind of slow as I posted that some time ago. Try sending Vic a pm.

Either that clutch has been abused or it was weak to begin with. Especially with both the flywheel and the pressure plate showing hot spots. Did you adjust the free play when you installed it?

Well, it seems to me that you are experiencing something that I have seen time and time again. You're taking things apart, changing components (like putting a 240 exhaust on a 280), puting it back together and wondering why it doesn't run. Stock, untouched fuel injection is tough enough to troubleshoot. You have to be careful what you break or disconnect etc. It's really hard to troubleshoot in print. If you changed the exhaust system, how would that suddenly make the gas dirty? By 'throttle body' I think you actually mean air flow meter but I highly doubt that you killed it by spilling coolant on it. You're not sure if it's fuel or electrically related, and I can not honestly lead you in any direction based on what I read. If it ran before you did all of this, then something is improperly connected, not connected, or broken during this installation. If you have a FSM, look up the symptoms and follow the steps. Other than that, all I can do is guess, not actually being where I can see the car.

I guess by 'shaved' you mean that you removed the bumpers. It's a nice look but I'll keep my bumpers. They are part of what makes a 280 a 280.

Still could be a fuse. Sometimes those old glass fuses will go out like that, making intermittent contact for a while until they stop working alltogether.

The lights you described are controlled by a fuse. I believe its the third one up on the right side of the fuse box. I'm speaking from experience on my 78. This may or may not apply to your car depending on the year.

Since you're using a 240 exh manifold, were you able to hook up the EGR valve? If not did you block the tube that connected to the 280 manifold?

By having a thermal vacuum valve (77-78) and thermal switch (79 and up)

You'll need the whole assembly because, if memory serves me correctly, the a/t brake pedal is wider and would interfere with the clutch pedal.

Yeah, go back to the beginning of this thread and read all posts, especially the ones about changing the firing order. Carefully trace your wires and if the car is running properly, you'll find that no matter where 1 is it will be followed by 53624.

Enkei 92's aren't specifically 'Z wheels'

We have identified them!

Looks like that is something that is on the 75-76 cars. 77-78 doesn't have it so I doubt that you would find it on a ZX. What is it's function? On my 78, the water neck only has the temp sensor, the thermotime switch, and the thermal transmitter (for the temp gauge). The hole where you have the broken item is plugged on a 77-78.

He had six available and only sold two. You might not get the auction price from the website, however.

If it's stock an E31 would only raise the cr to about 8.6 from the stock 8.29 (N47).

Rock on then, Coastieee! I might run into you at some of their meetings/events.

When you say 'clutch went out' what are the symptoms? It could just be a hydraulic problem (master or slave cylinder) which is not that hard to repair.