sblake01

How's your 810 coming along? I'm in the process of replaing all of the a/c components in mine. Compresser, condenser, receiver/dryer, and expansion valve. The receiver/dryer was the hardest part to source since they are no longer produced. I may have purchased the last two available in the US.

To change it basically all you need is a phillips screwdriver, a 10mm socket, a ratchet, and patience.

He needs both. I also may have them. Have to look through some stuff. Where are you loctated, Ravencree?

Michael Purdue has that color on his chart but only a chip. No car shown for an example. http://www.datsunprojects.org/zpaintcodes/ BTW the sample for 510 Sky Blue Poly is my car

He welded the wiper arm to the shaft on the wiper motor? I don't think I'd have gone that route.

My wife, my 320, and I will be there. We've already registered.

I've never tried to buy that connector but I doubt that Nissan would have them. I would find a good one at the junkyard and splice it in if I had to replace one. Not necessarily a Nissan one either since some of the European cars used the same type of connector.

This is the best picture I could find. There are two brackets. One on each side. The arrows show where they mount. Your best bet would probably be a junkyard.

I don't have an answer but he did state that his car is a 73 (post #4). Looks like Enrique is all over it however. But I don't really get the question about a 78 (post #5) as to whether you want to fix them or just know how to turn them on.

#362 Dark Purple Metallic. There was a car at my buddy's shop that color. I believe that it was a 75. I wanted to take a picture of it for Michael's chart since he doesn't have an example of it but he was in a hurry. I asked him if he had it painted and he said no and that is was the original color. It didn't really look that bad. Remember, in the 70s purple was a popular color.

I've seen that color on enough Zs to conclude that it isn't any more rare than the other colors. I guess that you're just not seeing them in your area. About the only factory color I would consider rare for any S30 would be black. (78 Black Pearl Edition)

I purchased a new AFM for my 810 earlier this year at OEM surplus. They sell surplus Nissan parts at about 25% of list. Give them a try if you need any parts. Remember these are new parts. I've purchased an a/c evaporator, compressor, window mouldings, dash pad, and a few other things from them over the last couple of years. http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/index.htm

That would either be 306 Sterling Silver Metallic or 901 Light Grey Poly. Is your paint tag gone or has it been painted over. Check on the right side on top of the radiator support.

That was more or less my point way back in post #2 although that isn't really what Tomo was after. Interesting direction, however, that this tread has taken.

Bond can already handle the car chases, the fights, and the women. He really doesn't need a partner.

Because it has a 13B? Remember, because of the principle of the rotary engine, technically speaking you'd have to double the displacement making your car a 260Z. Oh, wait, you might run into copyright problems there.

Never had much luck with certain Autozone parts for the Z or 810. I went through 3 water pumps from Autozone because in 2-3 months they developed a squeal. Oh, they still cooled okay but the noise was annoying. I talked them into a refund and bought an OEM unit from Nissan and have not had a problem since. And their fan clutch never did work right. Took it back, purchased and OEM and no problem. I tend to stay away from the chain stores when it comes to things other that brake pads, oil and filters, spark plugs (though some of them don't carry NGK), waxes and cleaners, etc. But to answer the question, mrcow, for the parts you mention I would try to find OEM, unless I had compelling testimony from someone that had used something else. I always ask MSA or VB or whomever, who makes the part. If they can't tell me, I'm not buying.

?????? Did you read the ebay ad?

No Z (S30 70-78) has a digital clock in it from the factory. If you have one in yours someone probably put a ZX or A10 clock in it. I've seen that done although I don't know why.

Only to those who are willing to pay it!

The BMW connectors are similar to the other types. I just thought that they were sturdier and easier to remove. You just pull the clips straight out and they come off, push the clips back in before you put the connector back on and it snaps tightly into place. And the moisture seal is better than the original ones.

Well, it's tough to put a price on pictures. By your description, some upgrading and hop up type stuff has been done but that also makes it less original which will hurt you final price in the long run. There's no pictures of the engine, which you mention in the ad. 2+2's don't generally sell for as much as 2 seaters. 260's don't generally sell for as much as 240's. Now, don't get me wrong, but I don't think you'll get the $3500 you mention in the ad to end the auction early. This is all just my opinion.

Well, it shouldn't really 'get lower' other than normal pad and shoe wear unless you have a leak somewhere in the system.

Let's have him check the things I mentioned first before we get to dropping the gas tank or tinkering with the AFM, which can quickly become a one way street. Start with the simplest. I have actually encountered this problem and solved it on my car by doing what I suggested above. Those connectors are usually pretty worn after almost thirty years. Simply replacing all of the connectors (fuel injector, thermotime switch, cold start, air reg, temp sensor,tps), with the sturdier, easier to work with, BMW connectors has turned my car that had those intermittent problems in to one that starts and runs under any circumstances with no problems, and gets up to 25.5 mpg. But you don't have to go to that extreme. Just check and clean the connectors, see how it runs then, and if the problem still exists we can move on to something else.

That might be for the other installtions in other countries. An L24E only has the forward mounting hole as opposed to the L24 having the rearward one. The L24E has a front sump oil pan to fit in the 810 and the Maxima (910). That is what makes is difficult to put a L28 in a 810 or 910. I wonder if all L26 blocks are that way. That would be something I never knew.