sblake01

Sorry to take this off topic but the Datsun Heritage Museum is closed?

I worked for a Datsun dealer back in the early 70s. I remember them doing that when one dealership had a customer that wanted a car that the dealership they were at didn't have in stock. The car would get transferred but sometimes the deal would fall through. By 72 they weren't selling quite as fast as they did in 69/70. Likely the deal fell through and the car did become a demo until it was sold.

Especially since he's talking about brakes; not clutches. Nyuck, nyuck.......

I'm sure everyone has their way of doing it but I put Permatex Hi Tack on the pan side of the gasket. Then I'd tighten the bolts, starting with the center two and then criss cross tightening them to about 8 ft. lbs. Always worked for me. I aways used Fel Pro gaskets for everything except the head gasket.

I've always used an oil pan gasket......

They really wouldn't be of much use on a 78....EDIT: Never mind. I missed the couple of thread jacks, posts 5 and 6. The OP was asking for 1978 bumper guards......

You must mean either '7 inch dvd touch deck' or '7 inch lcd touch deck' but either way if it's double din, it's going to take some work. I've have seen it done, however.

My 78 had the 'Diagram2' setup.

Do you have a good, solid, clean connection at the temperature sensor? The only time I ever experiecned stalling like that was on my 810 and it turned out to be a bad connector.

She has several cars, I believe 4. That being the case, $1K/yr. really isn't bad. I pay more than that for three though through a regular carrier. I had Hagerty when I had my Datsuns but always used AAA for towing and I never had any problem with them. My Z was loweved and had a fairly low slung air dam.

That would really depend on the age/mileage of the engine it's used in. For instance, 5W-30 is too thin for a high mileage engine and it will burn/leak faster than something heavier.

He must be a 'carb guy'.

The first one appears to be an aftermarket type AC temp. control. The second one I'm not sure of. Compare the color of the wires and number of contacts on the connectors to the wiring diagram.

I would think that knowing that would scare you.

I have one that shows all the 78 Datsun models. I'm not sure that there ever was on that only showed the 78 280Z. Not that I've ever found.

I don't know...I read his meaning as 'unfortunately he had to file a claim'...as in: "Unfortunately I had to file a tough claim with them, but they were beyond helpful at every turn." EDIT: Aw, Jeff, you beat me to it. I wish we had the 'delete post' capability here like we have on just about every other site I spend time on....(hint, hint)

エレファント　フォーミュラ: レース, ラリー あるいは高速ツーリグ用にチユーンアップしたエンジンには特にフォーミュラの使用をおすすぬいたします。 Formula brand of those Elephant oil recommends use to Race and Rally and Touring and tuneup engine. もちろん一般市街地にも適用するよう十分配慮がなされています。 Of course they apply even street use enough. ありがと

^^^^

You don't really need the ZX alternator conversion. The problem you're having could happen to either type of alternator. The upgrade is commonly done on the earlier S30, i.e. 70-73 240Z because of the lower output of those OEM units. There's really no need to change to a ZX type alternator on a 77. They'e both 60 amp units.

Here's a picture of a Datsun that is older than I am:

I saw you last week post on Z driver.com. Do you have a 1978 280Z or a 1979 280ZX? There are slight differences between the two mechanically that could effect the answer.

Technically speaking, wouldn't Agoura Hills to LA be a trip down the 101?

That's an interesting upgrade and nice work too but I never had any problem with the visibility of the gauges in my 78. In fact, I had to dial the brigntness down a little for night driving. When I bought mine, all I did was clean all of the contact areas and replace the bulbs. As well as cleaning all of the connection/contact areas throughout the car. I think the bulbs I used were also 4W as I don't think you can get the exact OEM equivalent anymore.

If they are acknowledging that they are responsible for stripping it, as you say, how does that lead to them wanting you to pay for their screw-up? I've been trough a couple of situations where the shop working on my vehicle did damage in the process and in both cases they made good on it. However this ends up being resolved, scratch that shop off your list.

That's what I used when I had my Roadster. Used to buy it at a British auto parts shop in Ontario, Ca. that's now closed. The best oil is what works best in your car, in your area. Some people like 3-in-1, or ATF, or proper SU oil but the thing is these are mostly 20W or 30W. Use lighter weight to get the damper to rise faster, and vice versa.