sblake01

The simple answer is no.

'SJ' would be some type of casting mark. The number for the head would be something like N42, N42, P79, P90, P90a, etc.

Gary?.....Oh, I think I get it.

Well then, I guess I don't understand what you're asking. I thought the question was whether or whether not the files could be put on the cd in the order you want them to be in. As far as a 'playlist' goes, I guess I'm really not concerned about it. Some one stated earlier in the thread that this is something I don't know about. Okay, that's fine but it's also something I really don't care about so when it comes to questions about 'playlists' I have nothing further to share here.

Me? I'm not looking for a solution. I can do, and have done, what you guys are talking about in the program I use.

I test them for continuity with the floats down which would indicate low fluid and hence turn on the 'brake' light on the dash. The fluid level will push them up breaking the continuity and turning off the light.

Jared, I remember the situation but the car I went to look at was gone. I actually had found another one but with Chris and others who live closer to you offering to look for one, I just figured it was under control. Glad you found one and will be on the road again soon. I'm kind of partial to blue 280Z's.

Mine were in the trunk of a 4dr. 510 I bought in 1981 and the car had been sitting for three years according to the seller.

Actually, I do origanize the files in the order I want them to be in before I burn the cd. I didn't realize that it was rocket science.

I don't know what you mean by "playlists". I burned it with Nero 6 as an MP3 cd and that's how it came out. It shows the name of the song and the artist for each of the 150 or so tracks as they are playing.

I've made a couple of MP3 cd's and they work in my wife's HHR. Comlpete with the naming of each and every track.

Dragmaster comes to mind. I know that they made six-slots, I had them on my Chevelle, but I didn't think they made any in four bolt.

Whatever you say. But the converter doesn't slip beyond what it takes to make gear changes, you know kind of like the action of a clutch with a manual tranny. It's gearing, both transmission and differential, that determines how many rpm get to the rear wheels. Now, please, no more on this. The question was 'what are your RPMs at 80 MPH?'

Your torque converter should be fully locked up at those speeds. If it's slipping then you have other problems. I think you're confusing the meaning of 'driveline efficiency' which has to do with how much torque/hp at the flywheel/flexplate actually gets to the rear wheels.

I did mine at 65K when I bought it from the p.o. I now have 135K (it was a daily driver for a couple of years). Compression is sitll good, in the 185-195 range. A little ticking is okay, better than the valves being too tight. Are you sure you're hearing the valves and not the fuel injectors?

Very odd because I just tried the link and it worked at least for me. Try this one: http://www.japaneseclassiccarshow.com/

It works for me. Also, the show is Sep. 30 not Oct. 1

What system are you planning to use? When you say "as original as the 71/72 Z" remember that none of the systems on any of the US 240Zs were original. They were all 'dealer installed'. Most of them used the upright style York compressor which won't cool as well as a rotary unit.

A little larger than what? Unless I missed it no one mentioned an actual tire size.

Nissan still stock them. Part no. 11026-61000. As I recall, they're under two bucks.

Using some 'forensics' the bar you've pictured is for a 12/74 and up 280Z. I'm pretty sure you can use that one but hopfully someone who has actually done the 'fix' will chime in here.

Count me in!

Here's a couple of center vent temp tests I did this morning. The 810 (factory air) is a little colder than the Z (dealer installed air) but the Z is right in the same ballpark and both are as cold as modern 134A type systems.

It's aftermarket. When I bought the car it had the dealer installed a/c system rather than the factory system. I took measurements and asked the guy at the a/c shop to sell me the largest condenser that would fit in that area. It's considerably larger than the one that the dealer had installed. And a larger condener makes the evaporator's job easier.

Well, it's pretty simple. I have the ARA type aftermarket system on my car. It came with it. I replaced the Sankyo compressor with an newer Sanden compressor which is basically the same compressor since Sanden bought out Sankyo some years ago. But the new ones are a more modern internal design and more efficient. I replaced all of the hoses. I make my own since I own a hose crimper and have access to all of the fittings. I also have a larger condensor than the one that was originally on the car with a pusher fan on the front of it on the side opposite where the lines enter. More air flow over the condenser = cooler temps at the evaporator. Plus I sealed all of the areas under the dash where air could escape. I charged it with R414B (sometimes called Hotshot). I've used Redtek and it was actually actually about 3 to 4 degrees colder but hydrocarbon refrigerants scare me a little although I never had any trouble with it. With the present setup, center vent temp is 28.7 degrees!