sblake01

It's a rather primitive system that is often over thought when trying to troubleshoot it. The two screws are somewhat redundant, IMO. They're on opposite sides of the same bypass port in the AFM so they both do the same thing, which is allow the engine to run with the flap closed. And once the flap is open enough, they don't really do anything. I use a Gunson Gastester to test CO. Bought it years ago when they were somewhat reasonable and it still works fine.

I just want add that I said 'basically only affects the idle'. To be a little more accurate, based on tests I've done, I should have said that the more the flap is open, the less effect the bypass screws have. This is important for California emissions testing since that is done at part throttle in an area where the bypass screw adjustment would still have some effect.

I wouldn't touch the bypass screws w/o something to monitor the changes in both AFR and CO (which I do have). That being said there's really not much to gain from adjusting them (as Rob said) since the changes will basically only affect the idle.

Randy, that's a year+ old post. I'm aware that Elvan works out of his home. I was just answering the question about whether or not the shop was still open. I guess I could have elaborated. I thought I had mentioned him working from home in other threads.

That's your relay bracket. It goes above the fusebox on the passenger side. It's on the lower right hand corner of page BE-6 (Body Electrical section) in the 1976 FSM.

Hagerty insurance isn't for everbody and definately not for the OP. I was insured by them for 12 years with no problems and their service was exemplary when my car got stolen. The car came better then it was before the claim.

Whether it fits or not, this site has changed......

Like this one?

Here's a link to a pdf copy of the 77 FSM:

I'm not really sure. When I said 'these cars' I meant Datsuns in general. But why not hang on to it? It runs, it's complete, lots of work went into it, and it's definately unique.

There are many 'fish stories' when it comes to these cars.

The was no plan to 'test the waters'. The decision not to build convertible Z's was made in the late 1960's before production ever began. Where does the number '180' come from? I've never seen anything to support that more than a handful of therse were ever made. Here's another excerpt from the same book I quoted in the pervious post that addresses (and refutes) some the the rather ancetdotal information you've attained:

Tough to answer the question of worth or collectability....Yours has been considerably 'customized' over what the Griffith Custom Coach Company did with them in 1978 to the point where it's really no longer what they were producing.

I'd say you've been somewhat misinformed. Here is an excerpt, taken verbatim, from Michael F. Hollander's 'The Complete Datsun Guide' published in 1980.

In the 1977 factory service manual, there is a description of the functionality test of the electronic fuel inection relay which is one relay housing that consists of both the main relay and the fuel pump relay. Pages EF-55 through EF-57 outline the test.

I would caution against doing that. It could send a spike through the system possibly damaging your ignition module. I suggest you use an inline spark checker instead.

Have you checked the fusible links? Fuel pump/EFI main Relay?

I use a power bleeder. No pumping, just hit each wheel, and I'm done.

Maybe??

You'd have to use a head designed for fuel injection in order to keep your injectors. That would defeat the purpose of a 'Racing' engine. You have to switch to carbs. That's do able. Street legal? Not sure if I know what that means. Could you drive it on the street? Probably. Would it pass a smog inspection (if you have those where you are). Probably not. A Craigslist Rebello engine? I'd want as much verification and documentation of it's claim to be that before I'd even consider buying such a thing from Craigslist. In fact, personally, I don't buy anything from Craigslist. There's no system of recourse in place there and disputes end up having to be settled in court.

A non baffled tank in an FI car would be problematic but I don't see how it could be the other way abound. I recall from searching the junkyards for a tank that the tank that looks like a 260Z tank but has the EFI baffles is a 75-76 280Z tank. My gut feeling is that it would work for you.

I only changed them once in each of the cars I had that were set uptht way. If the ones I change out were in there from 'day one' then I'd say they last long enough. It seem to me that the side ones wear out while the bottom ones crack if anything goes wrong with it. The ball/pivot style of the bottom one would make it hard to make at home.

If you choose to use the OEM bushings, you'll need 2 ea. 32855-H1010, one for each side, and 1 32861-N4200 which goes on the bottom of the shifter. You can use brass if you wish as they will basically last forever but they have a tendency to vibrate and the nylon ones are cheap and they really don't wear that quickly.

Looks like a Triumph GT6

From what I understand, the Datsun Heritage Museum has closed it's Murrietta, CA location and is 'seeking to relocate' according to this March 18, 2011 atricle: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/20/automobiles/20PIKE.html In fact, if you try to open http://www.datsunheritagemuseum.com, it takes you to the '24th Annual International Z Car Convention' site.