sblake01

These type of artilces have been out and around for a while so I wouldn't call it any kind of a sign. The article in the December Hemmings Sports and Exotic about rallying a 510 would probably be more interesting than a historical type article since you know the 'facts' aren't necessarily accurate.

Yup, it's niether 'niced' or 'all original'. Zzzaps and BPE may be rare in terms of numbers built but IMO, as I have said before, no more collectable than any other 280Z. Unless you find one in showroom perfect condition, as if kept in some kind of time capsule, it's just another 280. You'd have to paint it and somehow re do the graphics (which are NLA from Nissan). You could do that with any 77 or 78 280z since there isn't anything to distinguish a Zzzap or a BPE from any other 280Z except the paint code tag.

That's odd. The clip usually comes off fairly easily. I hope you don't have one of those situations where some idiot previous owner super glued or JB welded the crank on. I've actually seen that before. As far as the window alignment goes, that can be adjusted provided that all of the parts are in tact. I've done the adjustment on my 810 but never on a Z but I'm sure the procedure is similar.

Yeah. It's legal because the seller says so? Remember, this is eBay.

I made my own. The ones on eBay are too short IMO. As far as improving performance, I guess so. Anything to make it breahte betters has to help but it sure does sound better!

No, they were an option on 74-78 260z's and 280z's. The 77 ZZap and the 78 BPE came with hubcaps standard but many of them were optioned with these wheels. Same ones on my car.

Virginia International Raceway. I've actually been there once though I don't really remember much about it. I was about 15-16 at the time on vacation with my parents in 1966 (40 years ago!).

I've done it on a 280z without removing anything but the hoses. It's a tight squeeze but it can be done.

The relay should click. Are you saying the you didn't have to 'try several times' before you changed the switch? Is your replacement ignition switch new? Did you also change the plastic contact part on the back of the switch?

I've had it so long I don't really remember. It's a two piece set with another tool for removing door panels. Maybe Harbor Freight Tools.

I just use this tool. Same principle though.

Looks a litte different than my 810.

And for a 77 FSM go to this link and scroll down to 77 Datsun 280Z. You may have to go back a few times until it says 'download' rather than 'tNa'. http://carfiche.com/manuals020/cars/

Which thread are you reading?

I've made it a habit when I'm at the junkyards to collect things like those clips, the clips that hold the door locks in place, e-clips for the type B shift levers, and any of those little things that you don't think about until you need them. But they are still available at the dealer and on eBay. Part no. 54229-0201P-about $.60 ea. or: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Window-Crank-Retaining-Clips-240Z-280Z-280ZX-510_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34206QQihZ016QQitemZ260062448203QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

The car you pictured is a 75 California car. According to the 76 FSM, only the cars built for sale in California were equipped with the EGR system. That's where it could get confusing. I don't have a 75 FSM but I'm sure what I said also applies to a 75. Now, according to the 77 and 78 FSM's, it would appear that all cars had the EGR system regardless of where they were sold.

280Zs didn't come with power steering. 280ZXs had two types of power steering both of which would be difficult if even at all possibele to put in a S30 because of the location and design of the components. The first 280ZXs had worm and roller power steering. I guess you could count those out because that would be a step backwards in my opinion. I don't know when the changeover took place but the later 280ZXs did have rack and pinion power steering but the rack is located behind the front axle unlike the 280Z where it is in front.

Just pop the hood and look. If you have the wired fill caps, no need to look for the switch below. Datsun does have a way to keep things interesting with their publications which seem to contradict one another.

The 13264-E3100 cover says 'Nissan 2400' and the 13264-P0100 says 'Nissan OHC' at least in the North American catalog. Since we didn't get the L20A here, I'm also curious as to what it said on the valve cover. I remember something about that in a thread sometime back, but I can't seem to find it. Maybe Alan T. would know.

Well, I have a 78 which doesn't have the pressure switch but my info above came from a 76 and a 77 FSM. I also couldn't swear to it for a 77 or any other 78 besides mine but that's what the books say.

That may be true for a 240Z or even an earlier 280Z but not on a 77-78 280Z which has a three way connector in the in the area that you speak of since the warning switches had been moved to the master cylinder caps.

There is no reset procedure. The light indicates, low fluid, or emergency brake on. There's a fluid level switch in each master cylinder cap, and a switch on the emergency brake lever bracket. There is also a brake warning lamp check relay located under the passenger seat. Facing the front of the car it's the one on the left. The other is the floor sesnor relay if you have a catalytic converter equipped car. Check the switches in the caps first and make sure that the floats aren't stuck. If they're moving freely then check the wires for continuity while moving the floats up and down. If they have continuity then check the emergency brake switch. I've never seen the relay go bad but I guess it's possible.

The only advantage would go to the seller as he puts the buyers money in his pocket.

Okay, okay! So I, rather than cplus, ended up being the one asking the dumb question. And people say there's no such thing.

Any leak, no matter how small, is still a leak and causes the fuel pressure to drop. Do a pressure check between the fuel filter and fuel rail and note the pressure while running and after turning it off.