sblake01

Is your car a 'California' car? I had a bad altitude sensor a few years back and it caused the idle stay up when I'd come to a stop. I think we discussed that in a thread but I can't find it. Just a thought.

Gotta love the E. L. & P. reference! I've had my 78 for 10 years now and people still ask about it and make offers. More so than my other Datsuns. There's just something magical/mystical about the Z. Any of them.

A proper V8 conversion, that is, one that doesn't twist the uni body construction of the Z into a pretzel, is and expensive proposition. There are a lot of bad V8/Z swaps out there and only a few that were done 'right'. There was a guy that belonged to the Absolute Z Club in SoCal that had one with a 383 Chevy stroker, 6 speed Mustang trans, complete custom frame, Corvette independent rear suspension, four wheel discs, Vintage Air AC system, custom leather interior, etc. The car looked factory built and cost a small fortune to build but it was the cleanest V8/Z swap I've ever seen to this day. (And I still don't like them)

I was refering to the logo on the spinner.

For actual Nissan parts, if you have part numbers, I'd go to nissanparts.cc. Their prices are better than Black Dragon. I have no problem with Black Dragon, I've bought parts from them in the past when they were called Victoria British but nothing that was still available from Nissan through nissanparts.cc.

There look like old Eagle Alloys. I've seen that logo on a newer set but it also says 'Spirit Of America' around the eagle.

I didn't answer so I will now. Not a dumb question at all. I had to look up the procedure in the manual. You scroll through the 'Driver Information Center' with the buttons on the steering wheel until you get to 'Reset oil life' and press and hold the reset button until it displays 'oil life reset'. And then I go for a brisk drive in my Z to deprogram myself.:classic:

20-50w is kind of thick IMO. I've always run 10-30w and though I'm not a fan of synthetic, I never heard or seen any substantiatable proof of it causing leaks. My take on that is, these engines are old and if it started leaking after putting synthetic in it, it was just it's time.

I have a couple of tools I made that are helpful in that area. The one on the left consists of a 9V battery and connector (Radio Shack), a momentary switch, an injector connector, some wire, and a little soldering. Connected to an injector either on or off the car, you will hear an audible 'click' when you push the button if the injector is good. At least, electronically speaking, it could still be clogged. The one on the right consists of a gutted air rerulator with the coil removed, a side marker light and socket (junkyard), an injector connector and some wire. With this one, you remove the connector from an injector, place the bottom connector on your injector and the wire for your harness on the top connector. While the engine is cranking or running, if the bulb glows, your getting a signal (pulse) to that injector.

I don't think my wife would like being kept in the garage and only driven now and then! But, seriously, the core charge is for your old AFM. If you send the old one to them, they will rebuild it and sell it to someone else. If you don't send one they will charge whatever the core amout is.

Are there any Datsuns in the Ukraine? That post looks like spam to me.

The louvered hood was standard on the 77-78.

Have you seen this scan?

It gon' do what it gon' do. Ray Charles.

If you've got good fuel pressure but gas in the oil you most likely have one or more leaking fuel injectors. Are the spark plugs wet?

I'm still laughing at that one even with the mis-spelling! Maybe that makes it funnier.

Find the thing in life that you don't do well and then don't do that thing.

......to a zero feedback bidder. I hope it works out okay.

Redtek is hydrocarbon based and not EPA approved for automotive use. I've tested it and it cools well but one of it's ingredients is isobutane. That's kind of scary to me.

If you liked the York and R12, you'd love the Sanden SD508 and Freeze12.

About 90. It doesn't stay at the temp for long because that's about where the compressor will turn off until the evap. temp gets back to above freezing. It will stay basically in the low 30s at the center vent while driving even in temps over 100 degrees at the second lowest fan speed. I was testing on that day for the vent temp I could achieve at idle on the highest fan speed. The 810 which has factory air is a degree or so lower than the Z which has dealer installed air but it's the ARA system with a center mounted evaporator. Those readings were taken about a year ago using Johnson's Freeze12 which is an R-12 replacement. It's non-flamable, non-hydrocarbon, non CFC, EPA accepted, and it works with existing R-12 lubricant. I know that sounds like a commercial but I'm not trying to endorse anything here. I've experimented with a lot of refrigerants over the years and this is the one I use now because it works, hasn't caused any problems in either vehicle in a year and a half of use and costs 1/4 of what R12 costs. It runs at lower pressures that R12, takes less, and cools better. At least, that's been my experience so far.