sblake01

I bought one in Jan 70. It was the first, and only, new car I've ever owned. Wish I'd kept it, I'd be a member of the low VIN club.

For all these years, I thought that was a put on. I guess someone could really be that:stupid:

Make sure you mention John (code3z). He's the one that actually gave the eventual solution. I was going to mention reversed calipers since I've BTDT, but I didn't think that you would have overlooked that.

You know, the one you have to fill with air. That's probably why you didn't see it in there.

Yeah, that's on the bulletin board at ACE Hardware where I work. Personally, I think it's a Photoshop job.

Love that poem but I don't think I'll recite it to my wife any time soon because I'd like to continue to have the opportunity to 'grab something when I'm ready'.

Well, I'm outnumbered. Get on it, Jason!

Do you really want to see pictures of an engine and transmission being transported in the trunk of a car?

Yes they are the same shape and are designed to fit in the stock air cleaner box.

I have one in each of my cars including the truck and my wife's HHR.

I chose occasional driver-when ever the mood strikes and fair weather only and since my car suits me and those choices, I am, and have always been, happy with mine. A 'garage queen', which any low vin, JDM, or one with racing history should be, just isn't for me. I sure enjoy going to the shows, meets, etc. and looking at them, however.

Yep, I'm going to have to lean in that direction also after seeing your filter. My suggestion about the temp sensor assumed a clean tank which is one of the first things I did when I got both the Z and the 810.

Yeah, our cars aren't modern enough for a MAFS. An AFM is basicaly an old school and more primitave version.

Your's (Chris'sZ) could be a bad ignition relay. I had the same problem about seven years ago in my 78 and a new relay fixed it. As far as the original poster whom I believe has a ZX, I have no clue as some of the electricals had changed by then and I'm not too familiar with them.

Careful what you adjust on that Air Flow Meter or AFM for short. Many times it turns out not to be the problem for whatever symptoms the car is showing but tinkering with it can cause other problems. Could be just a bad rubber boot behind or in front of it.

So, Peter Brock (US) designed the original Daytona in 1964, and had considerable input into the Superformance Coupe in 1996 but nothing to do with the Daytona Sportscar built by Borland Racing Developments in Victoria in 2001 which was the vehicle that Peter Brock (Australia) ultimately lost his life in? I think I've got it.

Studying law or your ad?

Pete Brock or Peter Brock? I'm assuming you mean Pete (USA, BRE etc.) as opposed to Peter the renouned Australian driver.

I use a guage between the fuel fiter and the fuel rail. I bought a 0-100 psi pressure guage from the hardware store, some fuel line, a brass tee, and a couple of hose barbs. I just use mine for testing but I've seen some people leave them on the car. As far as the car getting used to the filter, well that comment doesn't make much sense since pressure regulator is on the fuel rail. Even if it dropped a few psi back at the tank/pump, it would still be high enough to to regulated to the roughly 37 psi at the rail. Did you test the temp sensor as per my post (#9)?

Here's the test procedure for the temp sensor from the 76 FSM:

Niether do we. And we shouldn't. That's why I posted the article in the first place. I don't have a solution that would stop street racing but crushing cars is not it.

Check your temperature sensor as well as the connection to it. I've experienced the problem you described in both cars. On the Z it was a bad connection and on the 810 it was a bad sensor.

They mount differently. If you use the later solid rail use the FPR that goes with it.

I know I said I wouldn't post in this thread anymore but that comment, at least for me, begs an answer. I do understand that the 'US model' is part of the overall S30 family. I just didn't think that a question about the value of, as I said earler, a 'US model' S30 being sold in the US on ebay, should have led to a discussion of the total history of the S30 throughout the entire world. This particular 'US person' is well aware of and does understand the differences between the different market variations. I've read about it often enough and watched and participated in some of the discussions and debates on that very subject in the 4+ years I've been on this site. And, even prior to that, I've had a long term interest in these cars. I bought a 69 build date 240Z brand new in early 1970. Even then I knew that it wasn't the only model built in the series. In fact, I remember the salesman telling me that the US version was a 'dumbed down' version of the Japanese domestic market version. I just didn't think that had anything to do with the subject of this thread. Apparently I was wrong.

Look at the condition of the electrical connectors for the EFI. All 6 injectors, the cold start valve, and air regulator, temp sensor, thermotime switch, throttle position sensor, have connectors that are crucial to the operation of the system. If possible, see how it starts when cold as well as when warm. Look closely to make sure the dash doesn't have a cover on it.