sblake01

Ain't that the truth! Even my brother's 07 Sentra mentioned earlier in this thread has been restyled to have a very similar look to the Altima, Maxima, G35, etc.

Oh no, don't take it that way. I wasn't trying to argue with you. What you say could well be true but I've just never seen it. I spent a lot of time in and around the dealerships back in those days. That, by no means, makes me an expert. On another note, here's an interesting response from the seller of the car that started this thread to some questions that I asked him:

Besides, read the ad carefully. The term 'Black Pearl' never appears in it anywhere. The author carefully tiptoes around that in his description.

See post #2. Hubcaps were the base on the BPE. The wheel options would have been the same as whatever was available for a 78 280Z. I don't get that statement wherever it comes from. Datsun never built a plain black S30. And that's what you'd have without the SAP. Again, see post #2.

Check out my 'Blue Pearl' in my signature pic. I even have the alloy wheels that were included in the performance appearance package that included alloy wheels and rear louvers .

Never said the car was wacky, it was the author of the thead that's wacky. My brother just bought his wife a 07 Sentra. Nice car though it's not my cup of tea. Much roomier and more powerful and higher fuel mileage than any Sentra the wife and I have ever owned.

No oxygen sensor, it's a 76.

And it has a damned sunroof!

Alloy wheels weren't included in the SAP on the Black Pearl or the Zzap. The came with hubcaps. His alloys aren't the one's he's reffering to anyway. I've heard different numbers bandied about including that one was shipped to each dealer in the US, but my conclusion is that there are no hard and fast numbers of how many Black Pearl or Zzap editions were built. No special VIN's or anything else like that. Just a trim package.

I've bought from Rock Auto. No problems with them. Rod bearings=con rod bearings=connecting rod bearings. Same part different terminology.

Also, run the Seafoam through the brake booster hose. Remove the hose, pour as much in as you can and then put the hose back on and start the car. The seafoam will be pulled directly into the combustion chamber. It will smoke like crazy for a while like redneckz II says but will clear out.

That one will work. That's a pre-79 unit. Those ECU's were only used on EFI cars. I'm assuming that he has not removed the EFI. I'm just kind of curious as to how you (Chris'sZ) arrived at the conclusion that the problem is in the ECU. Did you test it as outlined in the FSM?

The part in the shaded area:

There's a plastic bushing on the round part of the door striker. In many cases, they're worn off. I don't think they can be replaced. I don't know of a good solution for this other than replacing the door striker itself. I've seen people wrap tape around it but that doesn't last long.

I highly doubt that that's Chris'sZ's problem.

That was an old discussion, quite a while back and I'll bet I was involved in it. I worked with a guy back in the day that knew how to make flat tops work and picked up some of his tricks but I haven't touched a pair in over 20 years. We were dealing with the smog carbs (73 240Z/74 260Z) not the Datsun comp carbs. You could find them cheap and in pretty good condition since everyone was swapping them out for rountops. My buddy still has a Z shop to this day but doesn't deal much with them anymore.

An S30 is 4x114.3 mm which is actually 4x4.5". That's the correct format. 4x100, 4x110, 4x114.3 etc.

Actually, that's the number of bolts and the diameter of the bolt circle.

Don't know about that but the 510 wasn't the only 'SSS' that Datsun ever made. The 411 series SSS was the only model available in the US but over seas, that trim level was used on many other models. I won't go into a list since it really doesn't answer your question and it would be a fairly long list.

Chris, make sure that you use an ECU from a 78 or earlier. You can use any of the ones from up to 7/78. Don't use any of the ones from a ZX (8/78 up). Those will even have a warning on the label not to use them on vehicles prior to 79 if they still have the original label. And don't use one from an 810 or RWD Maxima.

At which point I remove the sensor and screw in a mechanical pressure gauge and test it that way. Everytime I've done that the pump has been ruled out and it ends up being the gauge, the wiring, or the sender. I've only done that 5 or 6 times that I can recall and never found a bad oil pump on any of the cars I have tested.

There is some truth to what Bill (F-I-M-Z) says, an auto trans ZX would be tough to base a performance car on, and a lot of truth in what Jason said. Tripple side drafts won't give you the mpg that EFI would. But they look and sound neat as well as perform well when they and everything that surrounds them is right. Cam, ignition, headwork, etc.

The oil pump doesn't have anything to do with the operation of the oil pressure gauge itself. The gauge operates from the sensor on the passenger side of the block. Either you gauge is bad or the sensor is bad. Or the connection to it is bad.

Not really a fan of either but, from what I understand, there's no new Harry Potter movie yet, only the book. I saw a bunch of people Saturday nignt dressed up in Harry Potter type outfits waiting outside the Barnes and Noble book store waiting to purchase the book which wasn't going to be released until midnight? We were just trying to get some Chinese food and had to work our way through that strange looking crowd.

4% sales tax...that has to be a long time ago!