sblake01

280~Master is correct but the testing pressure is 23 psi. 13 psi is the cap relier pressure.

Same as mine. I'll check with my buddy who has a Z shop and see where he got the one that's in my car. I'm not promising anything, that was two years ago.

I yours the automaitc valve or the cable operated one?

We talked a little about that problem here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27914&highlight=BCDD

That all only applies to California cars. Yours shouldn't have them unless it was originally a California car. And then it would only have the vacuum delay valve mounted in the hose between the BPT valve and the thermal vacuum valve. The extra switches on the trans were only on the 79 and up California cars.

The 810 has three switches on the right side. Front to rear; reverse light, top detecting, and o.d. detecting. According to the FSM, those, other than the reverse light switch, are only on California cars. When I disconnected them the car ran smoother, and accelerated better in fourth and fifth gear which are the only areas effected by those switches. They are part of the 'spark timing control system' which is an emission control thing as is the vacuum delay valve.

One thing I would suggest on the EFI cars, and this may only apply to California cars, is to unplug the top gear and O.D. switches from the trans since they change the spark advance in those gears, and get rid of the little round vacuum delay valve that's in the egr vacuum line. I gained nearly 2 mpg on my 810 with those changes.

How 'fair' depends on what the reserve is.

We didn't get any other L series 6 cylinder powered cars over here during that time but that cap was probably used in other parts of the world on other models.

I bought my 1970 1600 Roadster for $900 in 1977. Owned it for 20 years and sold iit in 1997 for $5500. Comparison to the Z? Apples and oranges. Totally different cars. I sometimes wish I'd kept it but I wouldn't look for another one.

I've got a complete L28, an L28D crank (not for sale) and oil pan/pickup all of which I plan to use for a stroker motor for my 810 when and if the L24E gets tired. I paid less than $100 for the whole lot and one of those 1/2 price sales they occaisionally have at Pick a Part.

Have you connected a guage to it and checked the fuel pressure while it's running? The fact that it runs better when the return line is restricted suggests that there's probably a fuel pressure problem.

You do that too! Do you ever plan to use the stuff? I have a lot of original Datsun stuff bagged, boxed and tagged but I wonder if I'll ever use it. I don't really do the 'show car' thing and except for the unique nla Datsun stuff the replacements are easier to find and in general, better.

Neither would I. He's talking about switching a non EFI S30 to EFI. So many things would have to be changed/added/modified etc. to do that. Fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, wiring harness, relays, ecu.....the list is a long one!

If your car is a California car you might want to check out your altitude sensor. I had the same problem with mine until I replaced it a few years ago.

No, the four speed was standard in all four years of production with an optioal auto trans. The five speed became an option in 77 and 78 but the four speed was still standard. All 280Zs were EFI but to swap it over to a non EFI car is pretty labor intensive as far as the fuel and electrical systems though it has been done.

Well, if this is about a metal fan and the clutch that goes with it, I have no clue. In that case, Ron's scenario makes sense. It's been 36 years since I owned one set up that way. I'm not even certain that the plastic fan and attending clutch for a 240Z is the same as the combination on a 280Z. I do know that the design of a 280ZX/810 fan makes it sit farther forward than a 280Z fan though those two clutches are identical.

Can you somehow take a picture of the fan? I still think I'm on the right track with this one and I've seen the wrong fan installed a few times. It would be hard to tell looking at the manual. Unless you look at them side by side, the difference really doesn't jump out at you.

If the tube is nylon, I'd replace it with aluminum or copper tubing as I always do now with the ones that come with oil pressure guages. Yours could result in a vacuum leak but mine resulted in an oily mess behind the dash!

Are you talking about the inhibitor switch? It's located on the right side of the transmission case. Should have a round connector.

If there is hardly any space between the fan and radiator you possibly have a 280ZX/810 fan which has the mounting surface at the rear of the fan instead of the front like the pre-79 S30 fan which results in about 1" less clearance.

Les's website: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Go to the '240Z Parts' tab and then to the 'wheels' tab.

Nothing that a air dam/front spoiler won't cure. But don't all S30's have a problem with front end lift at higher speeds?

Higher quality brake pads also help minimize the amount of brake dust.

I checked that out about 8 months ago when I needed tires for the 810. The only ones I've saw it that size at Tire Pros were the Yokohama AVID S/T, Yokohama AVID T4, and the BFGoodrich Radial T/A. I ended up getting 2056014's since there are a few more available in that size. I have 2256014's Yokohama A509's on my Z and they're even harder to find. By the time I have to replace those the BFG may be my only choice.