sblake01

Can't you just remove the E12-93 module, trash it and replace it with an E12-80? Doesn't the extra terminal on the E12-93 get a signal from the coil for a circuit that isn't needed on cars that don't have that circuit, like anything prior to 82?

A stock L26 has the same stroke as a L28 and is basically a L24 stroker. Basically, an L26 with a L28 crank would be an L26. An L24 with a L28 crankshaft would be an L26. I hope I said that right but here is the stock bore and stroke of each: L24-83x73.7 L26-83x79 L28-86x79

Generally, depending on the system and type of refrigerant used, anywhere between 0.8-1.0 kg. or 1.8-2.2 lbs. I charge them by pressure and temperature rather than volume. I look for a low side pressure of 34-38 psi @ 1800-2000 rpm with the system fully on and blower fan on high.

Not really sure if the aftermarket system used in the late 260 through 280Z would fit in your car. Is your's an early or late? Does the dash look like a 240Z dash or a 280Z dash. I don't know 260Zs very well but I think the later one with the larger bumpers also has the larger dash. If the early, smaller bumper 260Z has the 240Z type dash, the ARA type center mount evap won't fit. What type of fittings are used where the hoses connect to the condenser and to the rec/drier? Are they flare fittings or barbed fittings with hose clamps?

I saw the pictures. They looked wider than 6" to me. Maybe he purchased them with the idea of putting them on a roadster and at some point realized they didn't fit or never got around to trying them, but they did look wider than 6" to me.

You can do it that way, and it will work, I just prefer not to. The polarity can be kept straight though it's not an issue since all the connector does is complete a ground. All you'd have to do is note which of the two wires for the connector goes to which side before you cut the old one off and solder or crimp the new on the same way. I use a 'helping hands' tool, which holds the wires being soldered in position, a soldering gun rather than an iron, and 60/40 rosin core solder. I only flow enough solder to keep the wires together. In that way, the solder is no thicker than the insulation. Once they are shrinkwrapped and under the boot, as shown in that thread, you can't see any of the splices.

The old ARA dealer installed AC system that I refer to hasn't been made in years. There are other systems, like the Vintage Air system but they require a bit of work to install. The system you have, which was commonly installed on the eariler S30 has the main drawback of having to pull the cooled air through the system rather that pushing it like the center mounted evaporator. You can do the 'Honda blower motor upgrade' found on this site and that will improve the performance but it will never cool as well as the factory system or the aftermarket system with the center evap.

Those fans really weren't for cooling per se. Whether or not the theory works, Nissan put those on the ZX in an attempt to lower emissions by lowering the fuel temperature. Odd thing is, they're only supposed to run, for about 17 minutes, right after you turn the engine off.

I think the read the thread.

If the evaporator is mounted in the passenger footwell it's aftermarket. Though there were aftermarket systems for the late 260 and the 280Z that did have a center mounted evaporator like the factory systems.

You can just buy replacement connectors and cut the old ones off and solder and shrink wrap the new ones on. There's a few threads on replacing them and upgrading to better connectors. This one talks about the different connectors and even show my learning curve on the since the thread is a couple of years old. I've got it down to an exact science now. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929

I would check the pressures first. That vacuum pump should work but but I don't know how good one for 12 bucks would hold up. I paid $150 for 1.2 CFM Robinair 15100 pump 20 years ago and it still works fine.

Yes, it is added to the low side with the can or container inverted so as to charge with liquid rather than vapor. I look for a low side reading between 32-38 @ 1800-2000 rpm with the AC fully on and the fan on the highest setting. Start with both sides of the manifold closed. Keep the high side of the manifold closed and slowly feather the low side open and closed until you reach the desired low side reading. The high side reading will vary depending on the particular refrigerant used and the ambient temperature. You'll know when it's right when the center vent temp reaches the low 30s/high 20s. I use an infrared non contact thermometer for that but if you don't have one, a meat thremometer placed in the vent will do. Johnsen's Freeze12 is an excellent choice as I've been using it for over three years in my Z and my 810 with no problems. It contains no hydrocarbons and runs at a lower high side pressure than R12 or R134a, which puts less stress on the systems's seals, etc., and is a direct drop-in for R12. What type of fittings do you have on your compressor. Your link didn't work but I put the number in at the site and did see the gauge set. It's a lower end set but it does have standard fittings plus R134a type adapters. I have the R134a fittings on my compressors because I like the quick release which prevents loss of refrigerand when removing the hoses.

It appears to be done with modern, readily available, and fairly inexpensive parts compared to the Nissan EFI of the era. Please keep us posted on your progress.

You say you're getting voltage at all of the injectors but are you sure that they are all firing? Do you hear an audible click from each and every injector? Especially at number one and two where you say pulling the wires makes no real difference. I use a mechanics stetescope to check that. The only other thing I've ever come across with my two efi cars that caused a problem like that was a bad connection at the temperaure sensor but if the sensor itself is bad it can also make it run like that.

Well, like I said on the first page, 21/32" is the actual size but 17mm is close. I do believe that the R200 came with the trannsmission type plug the the fill hole and the square recess for the drain. The square recess is actually easier to work with as long as you have access.

NAPA also carries high quality parts. When I don't use OEM, I generally will go to to Car Quest or NAPA. The only chain store auto parts store I will occasionally buy parts from is Kragen and that depends on the part.

I'd forget about carfiiche and use these two links:For the S30- http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html For the S130- http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Some of his manuals aren't scanned very well but they're readible. Looks like he used greyscale on some of them instead of 1 bit black and white which would have been clearer. He even has Z31, Z32, and Z33 (w/some G35) stuff.

Speaking of the Buick 215 V8, if you want to look at something toatlly insane, check this!

You mean the old Buick 215? Lightweight, yes, but as I recall they wre short on power. I think Oldsmobile and Pontiac also used a version of that engine. I think the British company, Rover, eventually bought the design from GM and continued to produce their version of that engine until the MG/Rover Group split up a couple of years ago. I haven't heard of anyone using that engine for a swap for years, at least in the US. Might work out okay in a Z since, as I recall, the engine only weighed a shade over 300 lbs. I don't really know too much else about them, however.

No, actually that's the plug that was in it when I bought it from the P.O., who bought it new, and he's the type that wouldn't even know what to put in a differential much less where it goes. My 810, which doesn't have that link going across the differential, has two square recess plugs. But, I do believe that the setup on the Z is original.

You were told wrong and your 'old datsun mechanics' are misinformed. The 74 260Z was the first US S30 to have factory air. If not, the would render this section in the 260Z FSM pretty useless. Seriously, I've worked on them. It's pretty much the same system as the factory air in the 75-78 280Z.

I know but I was just trying to show the space between the plug and the link. I'd have to pull the car out of the garage and put it on 'stands to get a better pic.

Naw... triple Mikunis.

I've been watching this thread and either a 78 is different or my car is special because I've never had a problem getting that plug out. This isn't the greatest picture but you can see that, at least on my car, threre is enough room between the plug and the link to get it out: