sblake01

We don't see nearly as many of them out here in the junkyards and we did a few years ago.

I'd attrubute that to the fact that you live in sunny Anaheim, CA. I don't think it would fire right up in a colder climate w/o at least some residual fuel presure.

Here are the 280z fuel pump operation charts. The pumps are actuated differently depending on year but at no time should the pump run until the car has started. 75-77 78 (Note that there is no mention of AFM contact points or fuel pump relay) Either TomoHawk is mistaken or he has a quite special 78.

It's the nipple on the pump that screws into the outlet

The most common cause of this is a leaking check valve at the fuel pump outlet. It could be other components leaking such as injectors, cold start vavle, etc. but you don't seem to have any of the other symptoms, such as richness or black smoke, that go alon with that.

Which smaller screw? The only screws I see on the throttle linkage are the ones that hold it together. My 78 may be a little different than your 76, but it has a dashpot that basically is a damper to keep the throttle from closing abruptly when you release the accelerator. It contacts the linkage at the throttle chamber where the rod from the linkage connects. I actually think that your cleaning of the connections had the most effect on correcting you car's problems. As far as the voltage guage, I've never seen a stock one that was accurate. Trust your voltmeter. My guage reads just under 16 (when the car is running) but the voltmeter says about 14.2-14.4 at that point. When not running, the guage says about 13 but the voltemeter says 12.4-12.5.

So it's more like 1.68 turns (x2) which would be a 3.36?

Yeah, I wondered about that. I can't fathom what the intented use of a 1.6 final drive ratio would be anyway. It would be like starting out in third gear.

Where I live in San Bernardino, there are 10 self service yards within a 30 mile radius. 5 Pick A Parts, 3 Ecologys, a Pic N Pull, and U Pick U Save. I do two seperate runs when I go junkyarding. The north run and the south run.

The 'spring loaded screw' is the idle speed screw. What else did you adjust? The screw on the air flow meter? That's the bypass port. Adjustments to that should only be made with the use of some type of exhaust analyzer. Without one, you'll get it close but you won't get it right. Sounds like you need to read the manual a little more carefully. The fact that the car runs better with that 'seat of the pants' adjustment means either the adjustment is compensating for some other problem or the screw has been 'messed with' in the past and you adjusted it back to somewhere close to where it should be. Do you have emissions tests in Nebraska?

The problem with that is that the stock antenna raises or lowers and sort of 'idles' until you release the button based on a switched 12v signal and an a reversed but still switched 12v signal. A fully automatic stops itself when it reaches full retraction or extension based on constant 12v and switched 12v. The 'blue wire' only provides the switched 12v. Getting both signals runs it up and getting only the constant 12v runs it down. The setup it would take to make the stock antenna work off the blue wire from a modern unit would be rather elaborate and would not only include relays but some type of timer(s) as well. Seem like a lot of research and fabrication when you could just switch to the modern antenna or just use the stock one with the optional console switch.

He had a Dastun connection. I've read that he had design input into the 410/411 sedans/wagons.

We were discussing the use of a more modern fully automatic antenna in place of the stock semi auto unit.

The switch and the capillary tube (metal vacuum hose as you put it) are for your AC and have nothing to do with the heater. The tube actually goes between the fins of your AC evaporator to sense the temperature and cycle the compressor on an off the keep the evaporator from freezing. There might be something in this thread that will be of help.

You must have bought a 75-77 fuel injection relay. The one you need is to one with 6 terminals, to one farthest right in the picture. For a 78 the EFI main relay looks like this: And the 75-77 EFI main relay looks like this:

I have 225/60-14 Yokohama A-509's on my 280Z. They're unfortunately NLA. They might actually be a bit large but I've had no issues with them.

He's on my exclude list also. He never discloses the shipping cost until you win the auction unless you ask him and he's slow to respond to questions about his items.

That's the box with the fusible links on it just in front of the battery. You have to open it up to get to the relays.

It will definately be challenging but I don't see why it can't be done. In using the harness from the ZX, you'll likely have to add some items to the Z that it didn't have like the O2 sensor, etc. Hopefully the ZX EFI harness ties into the main electrical system in the same way or at least similar enough to the way it ties into the system on the Z. Keep us posted.

You still kicking that idea around? I've had my fully automatic antenna in my 78 and working since 1998. I used the blue wire from my aftermarket radio connected to the plug for stock antenna for the switched lead and ran a unswiched 12 V to the other. I used the plug from the old antenna on that end and the plug from the old antenna switch on the other end. It's completely reversible if I ever want go back to stock as I still have a working original antenna and radio amongst my spares.

I'd return the ECU if the seller will take it back. Have you run a fuel pressure check? What condition are your underhood EFI system connectors in? Especially the one that connects to the temperature sensor but if you haven't checked them and cleaned the contacts on the good ones and replaced any bad ones, your problem could be there. I'm not up to speed on the history of this car but did it sit for a period of time before you bought it? Not sure whether you mentioned that in another thread or not. If it has, you might have problems in the gas tank.

That would be quite the set of peculiarities considering the amount of work it would take to put the earlier setup in a 78 and actually have it work. So you say that your 78 has fuel pump contacts? Does it have an externally regulated alternator? Is you fuel injection relay above the steering column (75-77) or under the hood(78)? Those are pre-78 items. What's your build date?

If yours is a 78, you will note that the harness that plugs into the AFM doesn't have terminals on the side where the fuel pump contacts would be in the 75-77 models. I'm not here to argue with you but my 78 doesn't have them, the FSM says it doesn't have them and no 78 I've ever worked on had them unless the AFM had been changed and, even then, they didn't work because there is no circuit for them in a 78. It is you that is providing the inaccurate information.