sblake01

If you do that, you will likely end up with a mess. I would do a visual inspection under the dash where the heater vavle, hoses, etc. are. It might just be one of the small connecting hoses. My heater valve developed a leak which soaked the carpets and they had to be pulled and replaced along with thouroughly drying my still 'rust free' floor pans. I also replace the heater core while I was in there but the valve was where the leak was. A heater valve for a 280Z was tough to find in 2002 so it's probably even tougher now. There are two types. One for cars with factory ac and one for cars without and they're not interchangable.

Yeah, I saw that too but wasn't going to comment. I guess if you throw enough parts at it........

What's your point? Read the thread again.

Pretty basic stuff.......

Directly from the BBB Reliability Report for Datsun Parts:

Your 4 speed, being a type A trans, wouldn't have had one. The part number is 32862-E9300.

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That's pretty much the same design as the stock 280Z panel.

Don't know about carbs but I've had a cold air intake on my 78 (EFI) for years. I don't know what it does for performance/mileage etc. but it seems to have marginally improoved both. It's not really the same thing you're describing but mine does draw air from right behind the center of the grille.

Patch it, put a few new parts on it, touch up the paint, and then park it for three years isn't my idea of a 'restore'. Six years ago it might have been worth today's asking price.

Remember, he also has a 72 240z that he runs in SCCA's E Production class.

I grew up in the US listening to my grandfather and grandmother and even ocaisionally my dad using the term 'zed' while they were teaching us 'z' in school. They're from Guyana (formelrly known as British Guiana) South America.

Cut a new groove. I did that once on a 510 with a Dremel and it actually worked! There's probably a better way to do it......

After I removed the screws from the injectors I replaced them with stainless steel hex head screws on both the Z and the 810. I also put some anti-sieze on them. I broke one of the original screws on the Z and and after getting the broken piece out I wasn't about to put the remaining old screws back in. What adapter? There's an injector holder, an injector holder heat insulator, two rubber seals (one large, one small) that are sometimes mistakedly referred to as O rings even in the FSM, and the screw plate.

This is from the 1986 200SX FSM:

In a 60 series, I don't think I'd attempt anything larger than a 225. Mine is very close when you turn the front wheel all the way and press the suspension down. I think that extra width would make it rub, lowered or not.

The connector on the harness that connects to the injector? Color doesn't matter at all as long as the connections are right. The stock ones were black. The replacements I use are gray but I've seen them in blue, brown, white, etc. because the euro cars like BMW, Volvo, Mercedes, used the same type of connector on their late 70s to mid 80s cars with Bosch EFI. They are actually better quality than the Nissan connectors.

The later R180 such as the 78 AT says 25-33 in the FSM same as the R200. Is there anyway to find out what year car (or truck) the differential came from? If it's a factory R180 w/4.11, I'm sure it didn't come from a 73 240Z. It likely would have come from a mid 80s non turbo 200SX or a 720 pickup.

A couple of differences in how I do it. I use my 9 volt injector test tool to bleed off the fuel pressure at the cold start valve. That also has the added advantage of leaving a little fuel in the intake for when you put it back together and start it. I also prefer to remove all of the injectors with the fuel rail but this may be easier on a 78 and later because the fuel rail is one piece without the rubber hoses connecting it like the earlier models had. Whichever route you choose, be as thorough as possible like Jared said. It's not a job you want to do often.

I have 2256014s on the so called 'Black Pearl' wheels which are only 5.5" wide. They must have a compatible offset because they don't rub and my car is lowered about 2". As far as handling issues, I do drive somewhat spirited from time to time but I don't 'take it to the limit' as I did in my younger days. For the way I drive it, it handles fine. And as far as 'soft and sticky', the tires are Yokohama A509s which are no longer available but you'd be hard pressed to find a stickier street tire. I don't know what I'll do when they need to be replaced.

Too bad you don't live closer. After going though that same frustration, I picked up about 30 of those during a trip to the junkyard a while back.

With all the ZXs and 80-84 Maximas I see in the SoCal junkyards you should be able to find one for much less than that.

When you run a number through the NissanParts.cc database and it comes up, that doesn't mean it's available. It just means that it's a good part number.

That's what I meant by a 'work truck'. One to haul an occaisional refrigerator, couch, etc. I don't 'work' per se anymore.

I'd want to see it in person and drive it but if it runs as good as he says you can't go wrong for that price. It would make a good work truck just as it is. Disc brakes a larger engine etc. are nice but just as it sits it would make a good work truck. For Will: My Pinto had a Racer Brown camshaft, twin sidedraft Delortos, head work, a light flywheel, etc. It screamed! Unfortunately it didn't hande a well as it ran as the guy that bought it from me wrapped it around a telephone pole in the hills above Pomona, Ca. and still walks with a limp to this day.....